Report

of the Sverdlovsk Regional Committee of Physical Culture and Sports team on the ascent to the summit of Kirpich (3800 m) via the NW wall in the USSR mountaineering championship. Category of technically complex ascents. Team coach and captainE. Sogrin Sverdlovsk 1969 Kirpich and the ascent route via the NW wall The radiostations were not available to the team or the camp due to a lack of power supply.

6. Team composition and technique for overcoming complex sections

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range from Nakhar Pass to Chipperazau Pass.
3. Ascent route — Kirpich Peak (3300 m) via the North face.
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1050 (face — 700), average steepness — 47° (face — 67°), length of complex section — 160 m + 120 m.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 226, ice — none, bolt pitons — none.
6. Total climbing hours — 39.
7. Number of bivouacs — 3 (2 on the face): on ledges, in tents, snow present.
8. Team name — Team of Leningrad Regional Council of DSO "Zenit".
9. Team members: Ivan Yakovlevich Shestipalov — Master of Sports, leader; Boris Vasilyevich Gladkikh — Candidate for Master of Sports, Eduard Andreyevich Oshe — Candidate for Master of Sports, Vladimir Ivanovich Popov — Candidate for Master of Sports.

Report

ON ASCENDING KIRPICH PEAK VIA THE NORTH-WEST FACE, CATEGORY 5A ROUTE BY THE KAIS MPEI ALPCLUB TEAM FROM AUGUST 13 TO AUGUST 15, 2022

I. Climbing Report

Ascent Description

On July 13, the group, having completed preparations, left alpl Ulлу-Тау for alpl Uzunkol and arrived at their destination in the evening of July 14. July 15. After receiving the "start," the team headed to the wall of Kirpich, set up a base camp, dropped off some of their gear, and returned to Uzunkol the same day. July 16. The group retrieved the rest of their gear and, along with observers, moved to the base camp. They arrived under the wall in the first half of the day. The base camp was established on a rocky island within a 50-minute walk from the start of the route. This location was the most convenient and safe from rocks, which in the morning, when the crust was still frozen, rolled down to all the rock outcrops closer to the wall. The condition of all participants was excellent. Climbing preparation was scheduled for the morning. The duo, Zadorozhny — Rasspopov, were relieved of all bivouac chores and were put to bed early. They had serious work ahead. July 17. Day 1 of the assault, processing day! Early in the morning, the climbers headed under the wall. Their figures could be seen moving up the chimney. The weather was excellent! It was clear that the team was making their way up the chimney by climbing and advancing relatively quickly. The day passed unnoticed. The climbers returned to base camp. In 11 hours, they managed to cover a distance of 185 meters and hang ropes! This was a good start, especially since ladders were not used throughout this path, and a logical exit to the "otkol" via a fissure-chimney was visible above. The processed section was a narrow, inclined chimney formed by a giant rock outcropping detaching from the wall, sometimes disappearing and turning into walls.

To the Classification Committee of the USSR Alpine Federation V. Kirpich, 3800 m via the South Face, 5B cat. diff. (Chernoslivin's route) VARIANT 2nd ascent Group members: — Vasiliev B.P. — MS — leader — Shchedrin G.A. — MS — Oshe E.A. — CMS

Kirpich, Manoylov's Route, 6A

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Kirpich peak (3800 m), via the "diamond" of the West wall, Manoylov's route.
4. 6A cat. difficulty.
5. Height difference 700 m, length 1060 m, length of climbing sections V (4c–5a) (1) cat. difficulty – 160 m, length of climbing sections VI (5b–6a) cat. difficulty – 95 m, length of climbing sections VII+ (6c) cat. difficulty – 32 m, A0 – 3 m. Average slope of the route – 50°, slope of the wall section – 80°.
6. Pitons driven: rock: wired/stoppers: bolted: 0/15* 30/0 0/25* * — previously driven
7. Team's working hours 17 h, 2 days, ascent, descent on the day of reaching the summit.

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol area, Myrdy gorge, section number according to the classification table 2.3
2. Kirpich peak, via the "diamond" on the Western wall (Yu. Manoylov's route)
3. 6A category of complexity
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 800 m Route length: 1010 m Length of sections: 5th category of complexity — 155 m, 6th category of complexity — 125 m Average steepness: main part of the route — 80° entire route — 62°

Passport

1. Class — technical
2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge.
3. Peak Kirpich, 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the West Wall
4. Complexity category 6A.
5. Height difference — 860 m (2940–3800), wall section — 460 m (2940–3400) Length — 1055 m, wall section — 505 m. Length of sections:

• 6th cat. diff. — 130 m
• 5th cat. diff. — 270 m

I. Rock Class

1. Rock Class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Peak "Kirpich", 3800 m, via the "diamond" of the western wall
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 710 m, length — 960 m, length of sections with R5–R6 difficulty — 330 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 85°
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 39 (new), 4 (previously hammered)
   • bolt: 15 (new), 8 (previously hammered)
   • chocks: 69 (new), 8 (previously hammered)

Passport

I. Class of rock climbing ascents. 2. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, Gvandra region. 3. Pik Kirpich, via the "diamond" on the western wall, Manoilov's route, category 5B difficulty. 4. Sixth ascent. 5. Elevation gain: 670 m; route length 1370 m; sections: R6 — 250 m, R5 — 170 m, R4 — 400 m. Elevation gain of the "diamond" wall — 240 m, section lengths:

• R6 — 250 m,
• R5 — 90 m,
• R4 — 20 m.