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Route Description: с востока на запад,, траверс
Report on the ascent of the mountaineering route 2A category of complexity "Traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west" in the Western Caucasus, in Arkhyz.
Peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west Cat. diff. — 2A (combined) Leader: S. Bernatsky Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok balk, Orlenok mountain spur Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3031–3007 (Orlenok Vostochny — Orlenok Tsentralny) "Traverse of peaks 3031 and 3010 from east to west" 2A cat. diff. (combined). At the competitions in mountaineering "Pobeda Cup" NP "Club of Northern Travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First Ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gorge: Orlenok balk Ridge: Orlenok mountain spur Peaks:
- Peak 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny)
- Peak 3010 (Orlenok Tsentralny) Route: traverse of peaks 3031 — 3010 from east to west 2A cat. diff. Difficulty level: 2A cat. diff. (combined) (approximately) Prepared by:
Route Description: СЗ гребню
### Description of Route 3A via the North-East ridge of Orlyonok Peak, including details on the approach, descent, and belaying.
Supplement to the Route Description
Orlyonok NW 3A
Approach and descent path from the Orlyonok valley
Approach to the Orlyonok 3A route via the NW ridge. Approximately 1.5 hours from the campsite at the upper lake
Technical photo of the 3A Orlyonok NW route from the Orlyonok peak cirque
Description of the Descent from Orlyonok NW Peak
Route Description: с СЗ на ЮВ, траверс
Report on the first traverse of the 3010 and 3031 peaks (Orlenok Central and Orlenok East) 2A category of complexity in Arkhyz.
Peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny). Route: traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east. Category of complexity — 2A (rocky) Leader: V. Zakharov. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Orlenok gully, Orlenok mountain spur. Section in KMGV — 2.1. E-mail — ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the mountaineering route to peaks 3010 (Orlenok Centralny), 3031 (Orlenok Vostochny) "Traverse of peaks 3010 and 3031 from west to east 2A category of complexity (rocky)". At the competitions in mountaineering "Cup of Victory" NP "Club of northern travels "Sauk-Pai"" (class "First ascents") in May 2013. Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic Mountain country: Western Caucasus Gully:
Route Description: СВ кф и С склону
Ascent to the summit of Oshten (2804 m) via the North-Eastern Counterfort and the Northern Slope, complexity category 1Bz, first ascent.
Ascent Passport
- Region, gorge, section number according to KMGV-2001 — Western Caucasus, Belaya River gorge, section 2, subsection 2.1. Krasnodar and Stavropol regions up to Marukh pass.
- Name of the peak, its height, route name — Mt. Oshen (2804 m) via the northeastern counterfort and northern slope.
- Route character — combined.
- Assumed 1Bz category of difficulty, first ascent.
- Route height difference — 426 m. Route length — 900 m. Length of sections: V category of difficulty — 0 m, VI category of difficulty — 0 m. Average steepness: main part of the route — 30°.
Route Description: СЗ гребню
Description of the first ascent of KIAO peak, BOO-ЁLAEN via the northwest ridge, category of difficulty 2A, winter ascent in 1982.
| CLIMBING GRADE | — rock |
|---|---|
| CLIMBING REGION | — Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, the northern spur of the Sofiysky ridge between the valleys of the Psysh and Sofiya rivers |
| PEAK, ROUTE | — Peshtera (proposed by the first ascenders) via the North-West ridge |
| PROPOSED CATEGORY | — 2A (winter) |
| ROUTE CHARACTERISTIC | — rock and snow, mostly ridge, absolute height difference 500 m |
| PITONS DRIVEN | — 2 (when descending from the NE ridge) |
| MOVING HOURS | — 6 (from the start of the route to the summit) |
| NUMBER OF NIGHTS | — not required on the route |
| CLIMB LEADER | — Zaporozhchenko E.V., Candidate Master of Sports, instructor |
Route Description: 3 гребню с л. ЮЗ. Псыш
Description of the first ascent to the summit of Pshysh (3509 m) via the western ridge, difficulty category 2B-3A, with a detailed analysis of the route and technical details.
The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:
- to the west — Naur,
- to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
- Northern Psysh,
- Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
- Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
- 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)
Route Description: СЗ ребру, траверс
Description of the traverse route of the peaks Pyatigorsk - Nadezhda 3A category of complexity in the area of the Sofiyskiy ridge in the Caucasus.
Fig. 35. North-west buttress, ridge and summit point of the peak Pyatigorsk with the ascent route (13). Photo by A. Runich.
Fig. 37. The summit 1300 years of Bulgaria with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko.
Fig. 38. The summit Ak-Airy with its traverse route. Photo by A. Makushenko.
Fig. 39. Sketch of the traverse of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Part of the traverse from the beginning of the route to the saddle between the summits Pyatigorsk and 1300 years of Bulgaria (East Ak-Airy pass). Scale 1:5000. In the inset photos: a — view of the Ak-Airy horseshoe. Photo by B. Fedorov; b — on the dome of the Ak-Airy summit. Photo by A. Makushenko.
Route Description: траверс с В на З с пер. Орленок
Report on the first ascent of the combined route category 2B "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 (Severnye Zubki)" in the Western Caucasus.
Peak 2900–3000–3010 "Severnye Zubki" Route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" Cat. difficulty 2B (combined) Leader: V. Babkin Western Caucasus, Kara-Jash ridge Section in KMGV - 2.1 E-mail: ZHUR58@RAMBLER.RU
Report
On the first ascent of the mountaineering route "Traverse of peaks 2900, 3000, 3010 'Severnye Zubki' from southeast to northwest from Orlenok Pass" 2B cat. difficulty (combined) at the year-round alpine event Championship and primacy of NP "Club of Northern Travels 'Sauk-Pai'" 2011 (class "First Ascents"). Region: Karachay-Cherkess Republic
Route Description: В гребню
Report on the ascent of Goryacheva Rock 3138 m via the Eastern Ridge, category 1B complexity, first ascent.
Report
on the ascent to the summit "skala Goryacheva" 3138 m via the eastern ridge presumably 1B category, first ascent
Ascent Passport
- Region: Western Caucasus, Arkhyz area, Sofiyskoe valley, section 2.1 of the mountain summit route classifier.
- Summit: "skala Goryacheva" (3138 m), via the eastern ridge.
- Proposed category: 1B, first ascent.
- Route type: combined.
- Height difference: 300 m Route length (technical part): 500 m. Average steepness of the technical part: 30 °.
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to Peak Smidovich via the South-Eastern Ridge, complexity category 3B, duration 12-13 hours.
DESCRIPTION
ASCENT TO SMIDOVICH PEAK (3359 m) VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE (PHOTO № 1, 2, 3, 4)
Smidovich Peak is located in the Kardyvach Lake area, so the base camp for the ascent is set up near Kardyvach Lake.
Approach to the overnight stay at Smidovich Pass:
- Starts from Kardyvach Lake through the gorge of the Upper Mzymta River to the northern wall of Laub Peak.
- A gentle ascent along the snowy slope goes along the Upper Mzymta River, which is hidden under the snow.
- After 2.5 hours, you should reach a steep southwestern grassy slope overgrown with rhododendron, with small rocky outcrops.
- The ascent to the western cirque of Smidovich Peak and the Tsendyshkho peaks takes 1 hour.
- The path continues across the firn of the cirque, leading to the western edge of Smidovich Peak.