Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT YUZhnaya (SOUTHERN), GANALSKIE VOSTRYAKI RANGE, KAMCHATKA PENINSULA VIA THE ROUTE:

"FROM THE SOUTH, ALONG THE WESTERN COUNTERFORT, THROUGH 'SLONIK'" CAT. 2B The ascent was made by the team of the Kamchatka Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing on June 24, 2016.

ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

Ovalnaya Zimina volcano, 3rd ridge --- — Passage of the western route. P — Control tour. Δ — Base camp.

Description

Ascent to the summit of Ovalnaya Zimina via western ridges, category 2B.

1. Location description of the volcano

Ovalnaya Zimina is located in the central part of the Klyuchevskaya group of volcanoes. This is an ancient extinct volcano with gentle, uniform slopes from the north and east. Its western and southern slopes are steep and heavily destroyed. The summit of Ovalnaya Zimina is snow-ice. A 4-meter pole is installed at the highest point of the summit, clearly visible from all sides. It is impossible to blow it away by wind. A hermetically sealed metal box is nailed to this pole.

ASCENT DESCRIPTION FOR TOLBACHIK OSTRY VIA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B

The volcanoes Tolbachik Ostry and Tolbachik Plosky have glaciated peaks with glaciers descending to 1000–1100 m above sea level. Routes to the summit of Tolbachik Ostry go via snow and ice slopes, and only from the south and south-east, rocky ridges lead to the summit, which fall short by 150–200 m. On all other sides, the ridges terminate at heights of 1600–2100 m. The summit of Tolbachik Ostry is not clearly defined, and only in summer months can the highest point of the snowy ridge, resembling a pyramid, be identified. The following glaciers are identified on the Ostry and Plosky Tolbachik massifs:

• Number: 11
• Total area: 26.1 km² The approach to the western and north-eastern routes follows the same path and diverges at the depression of the north-west ridge. Those heading to the western ridge must descend into the valley.

Approach to the Climbing Site

From the shepherds' hut, built on a wide clearing at a height of 800 m, follow the riverbed to the Neizvestny stream, and then along the stream until the end of the bushes. After that, a stream flowing into it from the right will be encountered. Turn into this stream. About 600 meters later, it cuts into the right ridge along the ascent route and forms a narrow gorge, which should be followed. Continue along the gorge for 1.5–2 hours. It leads to a plateau. Cross the plateau in a southerly direction until it is divided by a stream flowing south. Follow the stream and it will lead to the left slope, transitioning into a destroyed rocky ridge running in a north-westerly direction. Time required to approach the ridge: 4–5 hours from the shepherds' hut. Elevation at this point: 1500 m.

Route Description by Sections

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Route Description

Ascent to Pik Glavlengradstroy

First Ascent

Report №259 dated 27/1-67 SA Leningrad 1965 LOS DSO "Burevestnik" Peak 5,730, "Pik Glavlengradstroy," is located in the massif of Pik Evgenii Korzhenevskoi along its north-northeast ridge. This ridge directly branches off from the 6,787-meter summit and divides the upper part of the Kara-Sel valley into two sections, which flow into the Muk-Su river valley.

Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Vanchsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5910 m via the southern wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: total altitude difference — 810 m. wall altitude difference — 610 m. length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Range.
3. Ascent via the western ridge of Peak 5320 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain – 2000 m
   • average steepness – 50°
   • length of complex section – 500 m
5. Pitons used:
   • rock – 18 pcs.

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Report

8

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.

The peak Kulizog (4688 m) is located in the Northwest Pamir in the upper reaches of the Vanch River, in the northern spur of the Vanch Ridge. The Kulizog peak is the easternmost in a group of five peaks (p. 4321 m, p. 5137 m, p. 5232 m, p. 5323 m, and Kulizog peak) that frame a horseshoe-shaped glacier feeding the Rovak stream, a tributary of the Vanch River. To the east flows the Abdukagor River. The first topographic survey of the area was conducted by N.G. Dorofeev in 1928. A more detailed topographic survey was carried out in 1949 by a group of topographers and glaciologists led by R.D. Zabirov. The few mountaineering expeditions that have worked in this area have chosen objects on:

• the northern and middle parts of the Geographical Society glacier (G.O.);
• the area of the Fedchenko glacier;
• the Abdukagor River valley. The first attempt to conquer Kulizog peak was made on August 2, 1972, by a group of climbers from the USSR Armed Forces: V. Golaktionov - leader, D. Tsamay, G. Chubinidze, A.M. Es'kin, V.A. Es'kin - from the upper reaches of the Rovak River. The group left their bivouac on the slope of the Rovak River at 8:00 and, reaching the first large gendarme, left a note by 15:00. The group did not reach the summit.

Description

Peak KhFTI-80 via the S ridge. Ovcharenko V.D. Elbrus E ridge # 2.4

Report

On the first ascent of Peak KhFTI-80 via the southern ridge from Assol Pass

Team of climbers from the National Science Center "Kharkov Institute of Physics and Technology"

2009

Passport

1. Elbrus region, Irik-Chat gorge, # 2.4
2. Peak KhFTI-80, height 3760 m; via the southern ridge from Assol Pass; coordinates of the summit: 43°19′16″ ± 10″ N, 42°32′37″ ± 10″ E.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. The route is rocky.