Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Levin'skaya Glacier.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 let Uzbekistana, 4650 m, via the "sickle" of the N–E wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 5B category, No. 453 dated February 28, 1978.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing, height difference 850 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty 240 m, average steepness of the route 50°. Total length 1190 m.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial holds | | | For belaying | For creating artificial holds | | :---------- | :---- | :----------- | :----------------------------- | | rock | — | 88 | 4 |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay mountain range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Riga 5367 m via the central buttress of the E wall
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, average slope 62° Length of sections: R1 – 60 m R2 – 30 m

4.17

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: peak 4850 m, via the right part of the eastern wall.
4. Estimated complexity category: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference – 930 m
   • Section lengths:
     • 5 – 520 m;

58. Karatash via the Southwest Ridge

The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, height difference — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldjilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev cirque. From here, move left and up the buried glacier to the first wide scree couloir of the Southwest ridge of Karatash peak. From the cirque, ascend an 80-100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200-250-meter wide scree slope that narrows at the top, with destroyed rocky sections (rockfall hazard), to reach the Southwest ridge. Here, turn left and follow easy, destroyed rocks, overcoming numerous short (3-5 m) walls and gendarmes ("live" rocks, belaying) along the 450-500-meter Southwest ridge to approach the 1st ascent. Fig. 67. Karatash from the south: overcome the 1st ascent directly via steep, simple 30-40-meter rocks (piton belay). Then, follow easy 40-50-meter rocks along the Southwest ridge to approach the summit ascent. Ascend steep, 45-50° simple rocks of the 30-40-meter ascent (piton belay) to reach the summit ridge and follow 60-80-meter easy, gentle, destroyed rocks along the Southwest ridge to reach the summit of Karatash. From the initial bivouac — 4-5 hours.

43. Osh Main from the west via the couloir of the Southern ridge. The route is rocky, cat. 2B (fig. 49, 51). The length of the route is 11,000 m, ascent time is 2 h 30 min. The approach from the "Kirgizat" alp camp (group of 210 people) to the initial bivouac in the Djoldjilga gorge under the western walls of the Osh massif - see route 14. From the alp camp - 4.5-4 hours. From the initial bivouac, turn into the couloir and ascend 350-400 m along a slope of 25-40° made of fine scree (dense, compacted dust). Ascend under the scree-filled couloir descending from the South ridge of Japalan'ya peak to the southwest, to the right of the Western ridge. Then, along the fine and medium scree of the wide (40 m at the bottom and expanding to 150 m at the top) couloir (rockfall, "live" rocks) - an 800-1000-meter ascent to the Southern ridge. From the initial bivouac - 2-3 hours. On the col, turn left and along the gentle, easy, местами заснеженным, сильно разрушенным rocks and scree of the wide (200-250-meter) Southern ridge ascend to the summit of Osh. From the col - 20-40 minutes. The route on the scree slope and in the couloir is prone to rockfall!! img-0.jpeg

Northern land

Ascent Log

I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Ascent area: Fann Mountains 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: mt. Aurondagh, 4573 m, via the central part of the NW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B cat. diff. 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1374 m, average steepness — 60°, length of sections:

• R1 — 300 m
• R2 — 150 m
• R3 — 370 m

ры­же­в цве­та was not translated as per the instruction to keep the original text for non-Russian quotes/passages; however, the rest of the given text is translated as follows: Reddish-colored rock, the cliff is bypassed on the right, 20 m, 2 hooks. From the site, 3 m left-down along the shelf, under the slipping, unfolded to the left, vertical column of legs is inside the inner corner with a wide crack inside. Up the corner —

• 35 m, 4 hooks, climbing is difficult. At the top — a convenient site for belaying. These 2 ropes — the first key point of the route. Further, there is a gentle ridge with several gendarmes. Between the gendarmes, the movement is simultaneous. The first two gendarmes are bypassed, the first one — — to the right, with belaying for ledges, the second — to the left along a wide scree shelf at its base. The third gendarme is overcome initially head-on, 20 m, belaying

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Eastern Fan Range 3. Zamok (5070 m) — via the shortest path from the wall 4. Proposed complexity category — 5B 5. Height difference of the wall section — 950 m Length of the wall section — 1115 m Total route length — 1675 m Length of sections with IV–VI complexity category — 890 m, including VI category — 275 m. Average wall slope — 67°

68

To the classification commission of the USSR Alpinism Federation

The route was included in the table according to a note made by V. Tselovakhin's group (1968), which passed the route to the ridge via Svido. (They named it via the S wall). The commission erroneously believed that both groups had passed the same route (this route — via the NW wall). The commission did not have S. Morozov's report.

• V. Shulepin
• April 20, 1984

Fann Mountains

Description of the first ascent: Skalnaya Stena peak – 5112 m, combined route via the north-west wall, 5B category of complexity. Completed on August 8–12, 1967, by a group organized by the sports club "GRANIT". Ascent leader — Master of Sports MOROZOV S.A.

Passport

Ascent to Mt. Akksu Main with ascent to Akksu North via the left buttress of the North wall (first ascent)

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent region — Turkestan Range
3. Summit and ascent route height Akksu Main, 5355 m
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B combined
5. Route characteristics: Height difference 1505 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 647 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route (buttress) 70°
6. Pitons driven: