Passport

Ascent to Mt. Akksu Main with ascent to Akksu North via the left buttress of the North wall (first ascent)

1. Ascent category — high-altitude and technical

2. Ascent region — Turkestan Range

3. Summit and ascent route height

   Akksu Main, 5355 m

4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5B combined

5. Route characteristics:

   Height difference 1505 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty 647 m. Average steepness of the wall section of the route (buttress) 70°

6. Pitons driven:

   rock (including wedges) 71, ice 12, bolted 0, chocks 69

7. Total climbing hours 82

8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

   7 bivouacs, including:

   • 2 — sitting in a tent,
   • 2 — on ledges, one person, without a tent,
   • 3 — lying in a tent

9. Team members:

   Korshunov Boris Stepanovich — Master of Sports of the USSR, International Class, team captain Tyslyatsky Albert Ivanovich — Master of Sports, team member Boronin Nikolai Vasilyevich — Candidate for Master of Sports, team member Gonchar Ivan Ivanovich — Candidate for Master of Sports, team member Klochko Valery Mikhailovich — 1st sports category

10. Departure date from base camp July 10, 1985 Summit date July 17, 1985 Return date to base camp July 19, 1985

11. Team coach — Korshunov B.S.

12. Organisation: Moscow City Council of the "Trud" Voluntary Sports Society

Profile of the route to Akksu Main via the left buttress of the North wall

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