58. Karatash via the Southwest Ridge

The route is rocky, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 61, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, height difference — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours.

The approach path from the "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldjilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev cirque. From here, move left and up the buried glacier to the first wide scree couloir of the Southwest ridge of Karatash peak.

From the cirque, ascend an 80-100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200-250-meter wide scree slope that narrows at the top, with destroyed rocky sections (rockfall hazard), to reach the Southwest ridge. Here, turn left and follow easy, destroyed rocks, overcoming numerous short (3-5 m) walls and gendarmes ("live" rocks, belaying) along the 450-500-meter Southwest ridge to approach the 1st ascent.

Fig. 67. Karatash from the south: overcome the 1st ascent directly via steep, simple 30-40-meter rocks (piton belay). Then, follow easy 40-50-meter rocks along the Southwest ridge to approach the

summit ascent. Ascend steep, 45-50° simple rocks of the 30-40-meter ascent (piton belay) to reach the summit ridge and follow 60-80-meter easy, gentle, destroyed rocks along the Southwest ridge to reach the summit of Karatash. From the initial bivouac — 4-5 hours.