Passport

of the ascent (first ascent) to Salynan peak via the North face. I. Climbing category: technically — challenging. 2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Chegem valley, Kargashil ridge. 3. Ascent route: Salynan peak (4350 m) via the North face. 4. Ascent description: – total altitude gain of the route 950 m, including: – lower ice ascent of the face 75 m, – middle ascent (Central bastion) 120 m, – upper ascent of the face 180 m,

Ascent Record

ascent of Maly Salynan peak via the North wall

1. Ascent type — snow-ice
2. Ascent area — Bezengi region, Kargashilsky ridge.
3. Peak — Maly Salynan (4050 m)
4. Route — via the North wall
5. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
6. Elevation gain — 400 m, distance — 520 m, average slope — 5°
7. Pitons used (ice) — 60 (0)
8. Duration — 11 hours

From the "Djangi-kosh" hut along the crest of the right-bank ("crescent-shaped") moraine to its flattening, then along the Sella Glacier. Along the left edge or through the middle of the icefall (Fig. 1) exit to the upper circus (cautious — closed crevices) and through it under the N wall of the Sella peak, 1 h 31 min. Through the bergschrund along the ice-snow slope to the left of the ice fall with piton belay in the direction to the summit (attention — do not deviate left, rockfall hazard from the rocks of the NE ridge counterfort). Along the steepness, the route has sections: 1 — ice slope (120 m, 45–50°) from the lower bergschrund to the ice edge of the ice fall. 2 — ice slope (40 m, 50–55°) in the ice fall zone. 3 — ice-snow slope (80 m, 45°) from the ice fall to the upper bergschrund. 4 — ice-snow slope (120 m, 45–30°) from the second bergschrund to the summit ridge. The difference of edges of the second bergschrund along the path is 1.5–2 m, in the absence of bridges traverse right for 20 m — here the difference is smaller. Depending on the ascent timing, the length of the snow sections of the wall is 120–150 m, belay — through ice axes. For ascent 8–12 h. Descent from the summit along the NE ridge to the saddle, then along the slope to the right onto the Bezengi Glacier and along it (attention — closed crevices, under the S slopes of the Varshava peak — rockfall hazard) to the hut 1.5–2 h. Hazardous places: on glaciers — closed crevices and rockfall hazard under the S slopes of the Varshava peak, on the N wall of the Sella peak — rockfall hazard when deviating left, on the NE ridge — possible cornices to the right. Special equipment: ice axes 8–12 pcs., crampons — for all.

1. Climbing class: technical
2. Region: Central Caucasus
3. Summit: p. Semenovskogo 4050 m, from the northeast
4. Difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: ice elevation gain — 700 m, average route steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds | | rock | ice | | :---------- | :--- | :--- |

Tjutyrgu Peak S.

Day 1.

From the Bezengi alpine camp, the trail goes along the right (orographically) coastal moraine of Bezengi Glacier to Misses-kosh. From Misses-kosh, the entire path to the Tjutyrgu cirque is clearly visible. A wide couloir with two rock steps resembling sheep's foreheads is visible. Two streams flow through the couloir, merging into one at the lower step. After crossing Bezengi Glacier, one needs to:

• ascend to its left-bank moraine to the right of the gully formed by the stream;
• cross the stream under the sheep's foreheads and skirt them on the grassy slopes on the left;
• before reaching the second step, cross the stream again via a snow bridge and ascend between the streams — first on grassy slopes, then on moraine. In its upper part, the couloir turns left, widens, and flattens, turning into a cirque. The cirque is bounded by the peaks, from right to left:
• Tjutyrgu;
• MVTU;

Ullu-Auz, north wall, 5A category of difficulty. We leave the overnight stay on the moraine of Ullu-Auz glacier at 1:00 AM, cross the glacier in its middle part, and approach the cone. The slope has a hard, firn snow-ice cover. Further movement is on crampons. Straight up:

• At the beginning of the path - simultaneously.
• As the steepness of the slope increases - insurance alternately through ice axes and ice screws. The section is exhausting. After about 400 m, we reach the level of the snow cushion, which is clearly visible from the left, above which the bergschrund wall passes (2–3 m). Here, an overnight stay is possible. Further:
• We have to break through the snow to the ice with crampons.
• It may be necessary to break through a trench vertically upwards to organize screw insurance.
• The steepness of the slope increases to 60%.
• It takes 4–5 hours to pass the upper part of the wall.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: rock (up to 4250) 2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Bezengi, Northern spur of GKHR 3. Peak: Ural Vostochny (4150 m) via the right buttress of the North wall 4. Difficulty category: 4B 5. Route character: combined height difference: 550 m average steepness: along the buttress – 55° section length:

• 4th diff. category – 110 m

Fig. 17

Ascent Logbook

1. Type of ascent: ice and snow climb.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Bezengi.
3. Peak Shota Rustaveli, 4960 m, via the north face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Total height difference of the route 1340 m, height difference of the wall section 1180 m, average steepness of the wall section 48°, route length 2400 m, wall section length 1660 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category 1355 m.
6. Pitons used: Ice pitons for belay 257, ITO 6, rock pitons for belay 12.
7. Total climbing hours: 24.

Report on the ascent via the Central Bastion of the northern wall of Peak Burovsky (via the center of the bastion)

List of participants in the assault group

TABLE of the main characteristics of the ascent route to Peak Burovsky via the Central Bastion of the northern wall.

• Height difference of the route: 1060 m
  • Including the most challenging sections: 410 m
• Steepness of the route: 80–90°
  • Including the most challenging sections: 80–90° | Date | Section № | Steepness of the section | Height of the section, in m | Terrain characteristics | Technical difficulties | Type of belay | Weather conditions | Departure time | Time of stopping at bivouac | Travel hours | Rock pitons | Ice screws | Bolts | Dural and wooden wedges | Bivouac conditions | Weight of daily ration, in grams |