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Description of the first ascent to the summit "Stimul" (4150 m) in the Fann Mountains via the route of category 1B complexity.

PASSPORT

  1. Rock climbing category
  2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat Valley.
  3. Peak 4150 m "Stimul".
  4. Proposed 1B category difficulty first ascent.
  5. Height difference 250 m.
  6. Climbing time 1.5 hours.
  7. Team: Baykovsky Yu.V. MS. Pilkevich A.V. Gupalov A.V.
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Description of the ascent route to the summit via the pass and a col at an altitude of 3150 meters.

product under the start of the route v. 3150 (kel)

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Description of a winter ascent to the summit of Ullu-Tau (4068 m) via the north wall, category 3B difficulty, with a detailed description of the tactical plan and team actions.

Ascent Passport

  1. Class of ascents — winter
  2. Region of ascents — Central Caucasus
  3. Peak — Ullu-Tau Eastern 4058 m via the rock islands of the northern wall and the western ridge.
  4. Complexity category — 5B
  5. Height difference — 689 m Extent of the wall part — 930 m Length of sections of 5–6 complexity category — 840 m
  6. Number of driven pitons: | rock | nut | bolt | ice |
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Report on the first ascent of an unnamed peak ("Baksan" peak, 3500 m) via the northern ridge in the Nakra valley area in the Caucasus.

CLIMBING REPORT on the ascent of the unnamed peak ("Baksan" peak) 2A Area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass Summit elevation: approx. 3500 m. Ascent route: via the northern ridge. Group composition:

  1. PAKHOMOVA A.V. — Master of Sports of the USSR;
  2. GURYAN Yu.A. — 1st category, instructor at "Baksan" alpine camp, Spartak Sports Society, Leningrad. Ascent date: July 16, 1977.
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Ascent to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya via the north wall along the route by V. Kizel of 5B category of complexity.

Ascent Log

  1. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
  2. Object of ascent: peak Volnaya Ispaniya.
  3. Route: via the north face (Vladimir Kizel, 1952).
  4. Difficulty category: 5B.
  5. Climbing hours — 22 days — 3
  6. Overnights – 2, the first before the rock chimney, the second on the "крыша" (roof).
  7. Departure for the route January 4th at 7:00 AM. Reached the summit January 6th at 11:00 AM.
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Description of the 2A category complexity route to the summit of Gitches-Tyrnyauz (3555.6 m) via the South-West Ridge in Kabardino-Balkaria.

Ascent Log

  1. Ascent category: rock climb
  2. Ascent area: Kabardino-Balkaria, Baksan River basin, upper reaches of
    • Kamyk-Su River
  3. Peak, route: Gnitche-Tyrnyauz, 3555.6 m, via the Southwest Ridge
  4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
  5. Elevation gain: 650 m
    • total route length — 1000 m
    • average steepness of the route — 50°
  6. Number of placements: 4
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Report on the ascent of Paton Peak (3930 m) in the Caucasus, made by a Ukrainian expedition in 2004, with a description of the route and photographs.

www.alpfederation.ru

  • 2A cat. difficulty route
  • 1B cat. difficulty route
  • 1B cat. difficulty route
  • base camp

Report

on ascents to peak 3930 (Paton's peak) in the Caucasus, made by participants of the Ukrainian scientific and sports expedition

  1. Organization Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Ukraine
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Report on the first ascent by the Demchenko CSKA team to the top of Prividenie (3809 m) via the northern slope, category 2B.

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-Krest ridge (43° 2′ 37,71″ N 43° 16′ 25,86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably 2B category of complexity Zaryaev V. V. — Galimzyanov T. R.

Ascent participants

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Description of the ascent route to a nameless dome in the Altai Mountains with photos from the personal archive of the trip participant.

Fig. 2 View of the dome from top to bottom, August 2013

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The route to Shaurtu Glavnaya via the south-west ridge is a combined one, with the 3A category of difficulty. It takes 6-8 hours starting from the Bezengi alpine camp or Chegem tourist center.

151. Shaurtu Glavnaya via the Southwest Ridge

(combined route by D. Sukhodolsky, category III, Figures 14, 16, 17) The path from the "Bezengi" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) or from the "Chegem" tourist base to the initial bivouac on the saddle of the Salynan pass is described in route 154. At the pass, turn right (when ascending from Bezengi) and exit onto the Southwest Ridge of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From here, there is a small descent to the right and a traverse of the first pinnacle along the ledges. Beyond it, ascend steep 15-20-meter rocks of moderate difficulty (pitched climbing) up to the saddle of the Southwest Ridge. From the saddle, ascend along the simple, heavily destroyed Southwest Ridge with numerous low pinnacles or along the ledges on its right side (belaying). Then, bypassing a large square rock on the right along a steep snow-ice slope (belaying), move to the left side of the Southwest Ridge. Further, bypassing numerous pinnacles (mainly on the left) along the snow-ice slope (belaying), ascend along the long, rugged Southwest Ridge to the summit of Shaurtu Glavnaya. From the saddle of the Salynan pass - 6-8 hours.

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