TOWER (2800 m) via the South Ridge Route: 1B category of difficulty All-year-round

Geographical Location

The Tower peak is located in one of the southern spurs of the main ridge of the Tunka Belki range in the Eastern Sayan Mountains, situated on the eastern side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley and closing off to the north with the SOAN peak (see diagram).

Access to the Base Camp

From Irkutsk, take a bus or drive to the Arshan resort - 218 km. From Arshan resort to the Zun-Khandagai River valley, west along the main ridge via the Tagarhoy village by car or on foot - 12 km. Then, on foot, up the trail on the right side of the Zun-Khandagai River valley to the fork of the left and right Zun-Khandagai rivers - 9 km. The base camp is located at the fork. The forest boundary is here. Plenty of firewood.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock.
2. Ascent areas — Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Bashnya, 2800 m, via the northern counterfort.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 150 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying — 0; for Aids — 0.

Group Composition

1. Krasnukhin L.M., leader, 2nd sports category
2. Trubnikov V.I., Master of Sports
3. Shvab A.E., 1st sports category
4. Rasputin A.K., 2nd sports category
5. Slastnikova T.E., 2nd sports category The route was completed on October 27, 1976.

Brief Geographical Overview

Peak 2501 is located in the main watershed ridge of the Tunkinskie Goltsy range, Eastern Sayan, in the upper reaches of the Pravaya Kyngarga River gorge. To the south, the peak drops with steep rocky walls featuring three counterforts — left, central, and right, with an average steepness of 45°. (photo #1) To the north lies a steep, heavily dissected, and destroyed slope. To the east, it descends into a long, sharp ridge, continuing the main ridge of Tunkinskie Goltsy.

Climbing Report

To the summit of Bratchan­ka (2501 m) via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge (first ascent) Eastern Sayan Ridge, November 2012

Irkutsk — 2012. Climbing Passport

Region:

• Eastern Sayan
• Tun­kin­skie Goltsy
• Kyngarga gorge Peak — Bratchan­ka 2501 m. Route — via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge, proposed category

Ascent Certificate

1. East Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, section 6.1.
2. Brig peak, 2499 m, via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is combined in nature.
5. Height difference 170 m, length 357 m, average steepness 40°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 40 pcs, bolted — 1 pc.
7. Team's travel time — 9 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Report on the First Ascent

To the peak Brig 2499 m. Via the Central Counterfort of the Eastern Wall. Approximately 4A category of difficulty.

Passport of the Ascent

Region — Eastern Sayan, Tunka Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Peak — Brig 2499 m. Coordinates of the peak: 51°58′55.27″ N 102°21′28.08″ E. Route — via the Central Counterfort of the Eastern Wall, proposed category 4A. First ascent. Route nature — combined. Route characteristics:

• Height difference: 260 m.
• Route length: approximately 340 m.
• Length of sections:
  • cat. diff. 5 — 80 m

1. BRONEONOSETs
2. 2529
3. 2B (via the western ridge)
4. Eastern Sayan, eastern edge of the Tunka Alps (southwestern spur)
5. Total ascent time 7.5 hours
6. From N: Lyevaya Kyngarga river; from S: Left tributary of the Kyngarga river
7. The first ascent via the western ridge was made during the Irkutsk regional alpinist event on May 9, 1976 (event leader — Trubnikov V.I.). Group members: Adov V.G., Pologrudov V.V., Filippova T.M., Nemirovsky Yu.B., Ponamarchuk V.S., Stanevich A.M.
8. Section 1 From the base camp on the Kyngarga river, along the left (orographic) bank of the first left tributary of the Lyevaya Kyngarga river — ascent along the northern ridge of peak Arshan (photo 1). The ascent is not technically difficult. In the upper part, a gendarme is bypassed on the right along the way near a characteristic "tooth" (photo 2).

Report on the ascent of Pik Bronenosets (2430 m) via the Western ridge, route category 2B (first ascent by V. Adov, 1976) Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое gorge, 6.1.2 2023 I compiled this report because I was unable to find a description of the route ascended by V.G. Adov in 1976. The route has many advantages, such as diverse terrain, which will allow novice climbers to practice their skills in несложном лазанье, setting points, and moving in связках, and there is also a rappel. In addition, the route is conveniently located near the village of Arshan, which eliminates the need for tedious and multi-day approaches. On average, it takes no more than 4 hours to reach the base camp from the village (approximately 8 km and 1000 m ascent). Another advantage is the logic and beauty of the route: it runs between two beautiful peaks of the Eastern Sayan, and the climber will have a magnificent view of the panorama from the Western ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Dождевое gorge, 6.1.2
2. Pik Bronenosets (2430 m), 3rd category
3. 2B — passage of V. Adov's route

Climbing Report

on the summit of Bronenosets (2411 m) via the right buttress of the Southwest wall (first ascent) Eastern Sayan range, August 2009

Irkutsk — 2009. Ascent Passport

Area — Eastern Sayans, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Summit — Bronenosets 2411 m Route — right buttress of the Southwest wall, proposed category 2B, first ascent Route type — rock climbing. Route characteristics — height difference 420 m, route length about 720 m, average slope 45°. Hooks left on the route — 0.

Climbing passport for v. Bronenosets 2430 m, 1 western wall, original.

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinsky ridge, Dождевое, section 6.1.2. 2. The summit Bronenosets (2430) of the Western wall. 3. Proposed category of difficulty, first ascent 4. The nature of the route is combined. 5. Height difference 220 m, length 300 m, average steepness 45°. 6. Driven pitons: rock and stopper. 7. Team's walking hours — 6 hours

v. Bronenosets (2430 m) via the couloir of the West wall,

original. Category of difficulty. From the base camp on the forest border between the gorges Dождевое and 2-я Шихтолаика to the foot of the mountain 1.5 hours walk.