Climbing Report
To the summit of Bratchanka (2501 m) via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge (first ascent) Eastern Sayan Ridge, November 2012
Irkutsk — 2012. Climbing Passport
Region:
- Eastern Sayan
- Tunkinskie Goltsy
- Kyngarga gorge
Peak — Bratchanka 2501 m.
Route — via the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge, proposed category 4A, First ascent
Route characteristics — rock climbing.
Route details:
- Height difference: 500 m.
- Route length: approximately 820 m.
- Average slope of the entire route: 55°
- Average slope of the main part: 67°
Left on the route — pitons 0.
Pitons used on the route: 44, including:
- "Chocks": 27
- Bolt pitons: 0
- ITO: 3
Climbing time — 11.5 hours; days — 1
Leader — Perepechin Alexander Alexandrovich — 1st sports category
Participants — Gichev Denis Vladimirovich — Candidate Master of Sports
Departure date: on the route November 4, 2012, at 8:00
To the summit November 4, 2012, at 16:00. Return to base camp — November 4, 2012, at 19:30
Route description.
Approach to the route from the cirque of the peaks Trekhglavaya S., 9 Maya, BrIK, and Bratchanka via a snowy slope to the base of the couloir leading to the Peshikh turistov pass (2B).
Approach to the middle of the couloir, to the right of the path — to a large standalone rock at the base of the South spur of the Eastern ridge. Then traverse to the right, under the wall, to approach the bastion of the South-Eastern spur of the Eastern ridge.
Sect. 0–R1 Up a narrow steep couloir 50° to the base of a vertical wall 3 m, then exit to a steep inclined ledge and up the ledge to the base of a large internal corner. Belay station on pitons, station location is inconvenient. 50 m, 3— Sect. R1–R2 Up a pronounced large vertical 80° internal corner 20 m (1st key section), exit to the base of a steep wall 70° and up the wall 25 m to a steep inclined ledge. Along the ledge to the base of an internal corner 3 m, 4+ Sect. R2–R3 Internal corner 35 m 60°, then a small wall 10 m, leading to a convenient large ledge at the base of a huge internal corner with an overhanging top 45 m 60°, 3+ Sect. R3–R4 Up the internal corner, mostly along its left edge, to approach the overhang. The overhang is bypassed on the left, there is an excellent crack for hand jamming and belaying. (2nd key section) After bypassing the overhang, exit to a convenient ledge 20 m from the top of the bastion. 50 m, 80°–85°, 5— Sect. R4–R5 From the ledge up a sloping internal corner 35 m to the ridge of the spur, then along a gentle wall 10 m to the ridge of the spur. 45 m, 55°, 3+ Sect. R5–R6 Further along the ridge of the spur to approach a gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the left, along a long sloping ledge in the ridge. Then exit back to the ridge and approach a small wall. Simultaneous movement. 60 m, 55°, 2+ Sect. R6–R7 Up the wall 4 m and then along the ridge of the spur to an inclined ledge at the base of the wall of the second bastion, leading to the Eastern ridge of the peak. Simultaneous movement. 60 m, 55°, 3— Sect. R7–R8 From the ledge straight up a steep wall 10 m to an internal corner, leading to an edge, and then along the edge to the top of the bastion. (3rd key section) The top of the bastion forms a gendarme in the Eastern ridge of Bratchanka. 50 m, 65°, 4+ Sect. R8–R9 Along the Eastern ridge to the summit (V. Trubnikov's route 1B) 410 m, 20°–30°, 1+–2—
Descent from the summit via route 2A cat. diff. (along the South ridge) to the saddle between the peaks BrIK and Bratchanka (Peshikh turistov pass 2B). From the pass, descent on rappel, along a steep wall 60 m (second rope required for unclipping) to the couloir, leading to the cirque of the Pravaya Kyngarga river gorge.
Alternatively, in case of increased avalanche danger, descent is possible via route 1B cat. diff. (Eastern ridge) to the junction with the edge descending into the cirque of the Pravaya Kyngarga river gorge. This descent variant is:
- less avalanche-prone,
- but more laborious and exhausting.
Clarifications:
- The route taken by the team has been climbed by many groups. At different times, the considered spur has been climbed multiple times. Evidence of this includes the encountered rock pitons and a cairn. The question remains only about the coincidence and intersection of variations of the routes taken.
- The unofficial authors of this first ascent are the team Golovin A. — Perepechin A., who climbed this exact variant in November 2006.
- The team reached the summit in parallel with a sports group climbing via route 2B cat. diff. (L. Krasnukhin's route). Some photographs for the report were taken from participants of the neighboring group.
Route
diagram in UIAA symbols
