Ascent Certificate

1. East Sayan, Tunka Goltsy ridge, Kyngarga gorge, section 6.1.
2. Brig peak, 2499 m, via the North ridge.
3. Proposed 4A category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is combined in nature.
5. Height difference 170 m, length 357 m, average steepness 40°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 40 pcs, bolted — 1 pc.
7. Team's travel time — 9 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:
   • Kikina E.I. 3rd sports category
   • Afanasiev A.E. Master of Sports
   • Belousov S. 2nd sports category
   • Glazunov E.B. 2nd sports category
   • Davydenko M. 2nd sports category
10. Coach Afanasiev A.E. Master of Sports
11. Ascent to the summit and return on December 12, 2004.

Description of the Ascent Route to Brig Peak (2499 m) via the North Ridge, 4A Category of Difficulty.

The route starts from a snow couloir with eastern exposure below the saddle between Brig and Bratchan peaks.

Sect. R0–R1 30 m, 45°. 1. Snow-covered slabs.

Sect. R1–R2 40 m, 55°. 2. Snow-covered rocks. Ascent to the Brig-Bratchan saddle or Konnykh Alpinistov pass.

The beginning of the North ridge of Brig peak appears as a sharp vertical monolithic block. The next section starts not along the outer edge, but 4 meters lower to the right.

Sect. R2–R3 7 m, 60°. 3. A crack filled with snow, upwards to the right.

Sect. R3–R4 25 m, 85°. V+A3. Wall, ice crust with the use of ice screws and celestial pitons. Ascent to a sharp ridge.

Sect. R4–R5 25 m, 45°. 2. Sharp ridge.

Sect. R5–R6 20 m, 55°. 3. Along the left side of the outer edge of a gendarme.

Sect. R6–R7 5 m. 1. Along the ridge and slightly down.

Sect. R7–R8 20 m, 45°. 4. The sharp ridge of the next step is traversed along the right 85-degree wall.

Sect. R8–R9 70 m. 1. Simple ridge, slight descent.

Sect. R9–R10 50 m, 55°. 2. Broken rocks to the right of the ridge. The ridge ends with a ledge before a monolithic slab.

Sect. R10–R11 15 m, 70°. V–A3. Monolithic slab with a limited number of cracks. Traversed 2 meters to the left of the ledge.

Sect. R11–R12 20 m, 35°. 1. Sharp eastern ridge. Ascent to the summit.

Descent along the southern ridge to the saddle and then left to the east along the "Galsstuk" couloir. The couloir is avalanche-prone, so it's advisable to clear it with rocks from the saddle.

Brig Peak, 2499 m, via the North Ridge, 4A Category of Difficulty.

Brig Peak

y₂ = 4

92. 3–4 Y₂.8–12