Another rope is needed on the snow-ice section, which turns into the cupola of the forepeak — 5270 m. 10 hours from the second overnight stay. From the forepeak, a 10 m descent and then simple rocks, followed by a snowpatch, lead to the ascent to the summit (fig. 1–6). Descent follows the ascent route down to the pass. From the ridge down into the left gorge along the middle axis down to the canyon. Further down to the left onto the ridge's northwest spur. From the ridge, descend along the fine scree and the Ksheshi river and along the right (geographical) side of the river down to the small bridge near the kettle, then along the trail to the base camp. 8–10 hours from the initial overnight stays. Recommendations for climbers.

1. Number of participants — 4 people
2. Time of departure from camp — first half of the day.
3. Places for picketing bivouacs — below the pass, in the couloir, in the depression between the forepeak and the summit, and in places indicated in the description.
4. Equipment — main rope 2×40 m, auxiliary rope 1×40 m, expendable reepschnur — 1×10 m, rock pitons — 20 pcs, non-withdrawable pitons — 7 pcs, rock hammers — 2 pcs, carabiners — 12–15 pcs, ice screws — 4 pairs, tent — 1 pc.

8. Peak "25 lat PRL" - 5207 m - via "Biały Koń" mandala 5A category July 24, 1969. Kazimierz Głazek, Tadeusz Pióro, Krzysztof Cieluszeck, Bogdan Jankowski From "Polskie Namioty" (for the route description to "Polskie Namioty" see the section) - ascent via "Biały Koń" mandala (through snowy-icy fields on the left ridge - 2 ropes on thin snow and 1 rope on ice) - exit to the rocky ridge. Climb 40 m to the top of the mandala on shattered rocks with flow ice. Then a sporting descent to the saddle behind the mandala. From here:

• two ropes on a shattered rocky ridge with flow ice (steepness up to 70°),
• a small ascent with the use of étriers,
• then 50 m to the next ascent on a similar ridge,
• traverse right and ascent on an almost sheer icy wall (live rocks) about 20 m upwards,
• then 30 m of icy slabs with steepness up to 45° under a big ridge ascent. On the left, the ridge drops with vertical rocky walls to the Akterek Glacier, on the right of the ridge - icy slabs with steepness up to 50°.

Description of the Ascent Route to Peak 4350 "Malaia Igla" via the Southeast Ridge

/First ascent/

Group Composition:

1. Rudnev V.S. — leader
2. Malykhin Yu.M. — coach
3. Egorov L.A.
4. Zhelonkin E.F.
5. Pavlovsky E.S.
6. Sofronov I.D.

Arzamas City Council of Physical Education and Sports Description of the ascent route to Peak Kshemysh Bashi with ascent via the western wall of the southwestern buttress (first ascent) Group composition:

• ORLOV N.I. — leader
• DAVYDOV A.P.
• EGOROV L.A.
• MALYKHIN Y.M.
• RUDNEV V.S.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1973 Class of ascent technically complex Region of ascent Pamir Matinsky mountain gorge Ascent route: Kshemysh (5300 m) via the north face Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1700 m, average steepness 80°. Length of complex sections 1700 m (height difference 1610 m, steepness 84%). Number of pitons: rock 209, ice 22, bolted 1 Number of climbing hours: 76 h Number of bivouacs: five (without rest day) and in them: lying 1, sitting 4 Team name:

1. Solonnikov Viktor Aleksandrovich — MS, captain, coach
2. Antonov Dmitry Igorevich, MS, participant

1. Climbing category — traverse.
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, upper reaches of the Tolstoy Glacier.
3. Climbing route — North — 5430 m (via the northeastern ridge), Central — 5585 m, South — 5450 meters LGI.
4. Climbing characteristics: height difference of the Northeastern ridge — 900 m, average steepness of the northeastern ridge 45–60°, length of challenging sections:
   • 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m
   • 5–6 category of difficulty — 80 m
   • 6 category of difficulty — 120 m

Photo 1. View of Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha from the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier.

Description of the ascent route to the summit Severnaia Matcha 4500 m via the southern edge (first ascent)

Group composition:

1. Rudnev V. S. — leader.
2. Melnikova R. N.
3. Zhgilev A. V.
4. Pinaev V. S. The Matcha peak 4500 m is located in the upper reaches of the Zeravshan glacier (Pamiro-Alai) in the Turkestan Range, north of the eponymous pass, and is actually two peaks, conditionally named Severnaia Matcha and Yuzhnaia Matcha (see photo 1), separated by a wide snow col. A wide snow couloir descends from the col to the glacier, making an ascent possible. The height of Severnaia Matcha, the higher of the two peaks, is determined with an accuracy of ±30 m. The absence of a cairn and other signs of human presence on the northern peak allows us to classify this ascent as a first ascent. The group of Arzamas 16, consisting of: Rudnev V. S. — leader, Melnikova R. N., Zhgilev A. V., Pinaev V. S. — members, made the first ascent to the peak Severnaia Matcha via the southern edge on July 18, 1969. The group left the base camp at the Matcha pass at 3:00, reached the summit at 8:00, and returned to the bivouac at 10:30 on the same day.

Description

of the ascent route to the "Yuzhnaya Matcha" peak via the ridge from Matcha Pass. Group composition: Zhelonkin E.F. (leader), Egorov L.A., Pavlovsky E.S., Sofronov I.D. The double-peaked Matcha summit is located in the Turkestan Range, north of Matcha Pass. It rises 600 meters above the pass. Its height is approximately 4600 meters. North of the Matcha peaks, conditionally referred to as "Yuzhnaya Matcha" and "Severnaya Matcha", lies a three-peaked summit in the Turkestan Range, followed by the Kshemysh-bashi peak. The ascent route to "Yuzhnaya Matcha" peak chosen was the climb along the ridge from Matcha Pass. A group of alpinists from Arzamas-16, consisting of Zhelonkin E.F. (leader), Egorov L.A., Pavlovsky E.S., Sofronov I.D., left the base camp at Matcha Pass on July 18 at 8:00 and reached the summit by 13:00. The group returned to the base camp by 17:00 the same day. The path to the summit from Matcha Pass follows a heavily serrated ridge, where 4 major pinnacles can be conditionally identified, although there are many other pinnacles ranging from fairly large to individual needles. The route is purely rock (July 1969). There's a lot of climbing on severely deteriorated rocks of moderate difficulty. The first pinnacle is bypassed on the left via scree and snow. The second pinnacle is climbed on its left part via inclined smooth slabs. Here, piton protection is necessary. The third pinnacle is climbed on its left part.

(20­–30) pitches. Further, through three ropes of difficult path along the wide snowy ridge (on the right - eaves) - exit to a small gendarme formed by the junction of the southwest counterforce with the Eastern ridge of peak "Shetor". After going around the gendarme (on the right) - exit to a sharp rocky-snow ridge. The ridges are heavily destroyed. When moving - alternate insurance through ledges. Two ropes of the ridge path lead under a steep snowy ascent, resting through 40­–50 m into the pre-summit spur of t. k. "Shotor". From peak Druzei - 1­–1.5 hours. The outer route along the wall (a difficult place) is passed first along the inner corner (8-10 m) under an overhanging stone, and then to the right under a couloir (difficult insurance). The exit to the couloir is done with the help of hanging ladders, further - along a longitudinal,

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical.
2. Ascent area — Matcha node, Turkestan Ridge.
3. Summit — peak Mushketova, height — 5300 m, ascent route via the center of the northwest wall.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1900 m; b) length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 930 m; c) average steepness (sections 1–32) — 73°, (sections 32–46) — 50°.
6. Number of pitons hammered for protection: