MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA Demchenko team

To the peak Dragon (3570 m)

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°02′37.87″ N, 43°17′10.62″ E) via the western ridge. First ascent. Presumably 3B category of difficulty. Galimzyanov T.R. — Zaryaev V.V.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader — Galimzyanov Timur Ravilievich. 2nd sports category Coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Address: 115193, Moscow, Leninsky pr-t, 35, apt. 33.

Dumala-Tau Zugan-Tau Koysa-Tau 4176 m Druzhba – Gidan. Category 4B, rocky traverse. 37 SECOND PART OF THE Druzba - Gidan Tau TRAVERSE. PART OF THE RIDGE. FROM Druzba PEAK TO GIDAN TAU. 1969.

Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

Dumala-Tau (4680) via South Ridge — Cat. 4B

From the bivouac behind the moraine, the path goes up the grassy slopes and talus, bypassing the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, to the right of the icefall. The route along the South Ridge begins to the left of a slab with a crack and a small stream at its upper part, via an 80-meter snowy couloir upward to the right onto a destroyed saddle behind the slab, from where the stream flows. From the saddle, follow a ledge upward to the left. From the end of the ledge, ascend a rocky couloir to a balcony. Along the balcony to the left and through a 20-meter crack, make a ascent to the left edge of the South wall. Further:

• Exit onto the West wall
• Traverse it to the left to bypass the jagged part of the edge
• After 40–45 m, exit onto the edge above the large "perо" (fin-like rock formation)
• From the edge, make a 5–6 m traverse along a ledge to the left under a gully
• From the left side of the gully, ascend 5 m up the wall, then 40 m along easy rocks under a 25-meter wall, which is climbed in the center
• From the wall, make a 60–70 m traverse through a couloir to the left

Duma-Tau 4557

2

3 ⑥ route cat. diff. 5B (1) (2) (3)

17. Traverse Dumala — Piramida — 4580 m with ascent to Dumalata from the north 3B cat. diff. (A. Naumov, V. Vanin, V. Gornago, A. Dobrushin, I. Ilyinsky, Yu. Kolenkin, G. Naumova, A. Pokrovsky and T. Tretyakova — July 1-3, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Green Glade under the Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascend to the moraine, to the right of the lowering in its ridge. Then up the moraine and snowy slopes of the Maly Ukju glacier. Behind the southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, exit left onto the moraine running along the southern slopes of the peak. On the moraine — a bivouac. From the "Bezengi" alp camp — 5-6 hours. From the moraine, crossing the

7. Dykhni-Aush-bashi via the S ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "sickle-shaped" moraine onto the Bezengi glacier, along the left (upstream) side of the glacier (watch out: covered crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of peak Varsova) to the hollow at the base of the second S spur from the main Varsova—Sella ridge. Across the bottom of the hollow to the right and up into the cirque of Dykhni-Aush Pass and below the pass. From the hut 1.5–2 hours. Over the bergschrund and up a snowy slope (may involve 80–100 m of ice, protection via ice screws) to the pass and to the left to the start of the rocky ridge. 40–50 m with piton protection:

• either via an inside corner to the left of the ridge,
• or via simple rock to the right of the ridge. From here directly along the line of the ridge (watch out — dangerous on the left on the ledges: weak rock, possible ice), then along a level section to the left of the ridge to the pre-summit "gendarme". Climb onto the pre-summit "gendarme": from the ridge along a 5–7 m ledge to the left, then Dykhni-Aush-bashi.

DYKH-TAU (W), SOUTHERN COUNTERFORTRESS — 5A

The initial bivouac is on a scree shelf at the base of the Central Southern counterfortress of G1. Dykh-Tau. Along the shelf to the right, cross the snow-ice couloir separating the central and right counterfortresses of G1. Dykh-Tau, descend a 3 m wall, and then ascend simple rocks of the right counterfortress to enter the main Southern couloir. The couloir (with loose rocks) is crossed to the right and upwards, exiting under the rocky base of the Southern counterfortress of East Dykh-Tau. Along rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, ascend 250–300 m under a 50 m wall. Ascent to the 50 m wall:

• First, 30 m up the center of the wall,
• Then 20 m via a crack, exiting onto the shoulder of the wall. From the shoulder, ascend rocks of medium difficulty under a rusty rock fall. Passing the fall:
• First, directly upwards 30 m via a crack,
• Then traverse right along shelves and upwards 25–30 m via an inner corner. A bypass to the right is possible. Above the fall — 80 m along shelves and rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, exiting onto a saddle upwards to the left via a 10 m rocky couloir. 140–160 m of rocks of medium difficulty lead to a platform. A bivouac is possible here; the time from the initial bivouac is 9–12 hours.

Dykhtau (Main), North Ridge, Cat.4B

The initial bivouac is at "Russian Overnight".

• From "Russian Overnight" along a horizontal talus shelf, exit to the glacier.
• The icefall in the area where the glacier meets the rocky outcrops of the spur from the West Ridge of Misses-Tau is bypassed either to the right or via rocky shelves.
• Above the icefall lies the gentle part of the glacier and the beginning of the West couloir of Misses-Tau.
• Traverse the glacier, skirting to the right the base of the buttress extending from the large gendarme on the North Ridge of Dykh-Tau.
• Ascend the glacier along the buttress to the right of the gully (rocks) with a stream.
• Exit onto the saddle of the North Ridge to the right of the large gendarme via a firn slope (avalanche risk).