17. Traverse Dumala — Piramida — 4580 m with ascent to Dumalata from the north 3B cat. diff. (A. Naumov, V. Vanin, V. Gornago, A. Dobrushin, I. Ilyinsky, Yu. Kolenkin, G. Naumova, A. Pokrovsky and T. Tretyakova — July 1-3, 1964). The path from the "Bezengi" alp camp to the Green Glade under the Maly Ukju glacier see in description 1. From the glade, ascend to the moraine, to the right of the lowering in its ridge. Then up the moraine and snowy slopes of the Maly Ukju glacier. Behind the southern counterfort of the Ukyu peak, exit left onto the moraine running along the southern slopes of the peak. On the moraine — a bivouac. From the "Bezengi" alp camp — 5-6 hours. From the moraine, crossing the glacier to the right, exit to the right of the drop-offs under the snowy ascent and up it 120-150 m to a snowy "cushion". From the "cushion" to the right and up 80-90 m along the steep snowy slope, to the right of the rocky edge, ascend to the saddle east of the Ural peak. From the saddle, left and up simple rocks to the Black gendarme. From it, a 20-25-meter descent along simple rocks and a 100-120-meter snowy slope into the snowy cirque of the North saddle under the ice-snow northern wall of the Dumala peak. From the saddle, 400-500 m up the ice-snow slope with two 20-30-meter ice ascents. Ice ledges-drop-offs are bypassed on the right (avalanche! screw belay!). The rocks of the peak are bypassed on the right (hooks!) along a steep 30-meter ice couloir with an exit to the West ridge of the Dumala peak. Along the simple snow-rock West ridge, exit to the Dumala peak. From the peak, descend east along the sharp snowy ridge (cornices!). Four rock-snow gendarmes are passed along the ridge (belay!). A 500-600-meter descent from the last gendarme to the saddle under the Piramida peak goes along a sharp, heavily serrated, in places steep snow-rock ridge (cornices! belay!). On the saddle — a bivouac. From the bivouac located on the moraine of the Maly Ukju glacier — 8-10 hours. From the saddle, along a sharp 150-170-meter snowy, with two steep ascents ridge (cornices! belay!) ascend to the Piramida peak. Descent from the peak along rocks of medium difficulty of the East ridge in a sporting manner. Then along a steep sharp snowy ridge and simple, not steep rocks descend to the saddle (cornices! belay!). From the saddle, left-down along a 120-150-meter ice-snow couloir and through the bergschrund exit to the Ukju glacier. Along it, through the Ukyu pass, return to the initial bivouac. From the bivouac to the saddle — 6-8 hours. Then along the approach route return to the alp camp.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants — 4-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — moraine under the southern slopes of the Ukyu peak.
3. Departure time — 2-3 am.
4. Equipment: main rope — 2×40 m; auxiliary cordelette — 6 m; rock hooks — 6-8; ice hooks — 5-6; rock hammer — 2; carabiners — 10-12, crampons — 4 pairs, tent — 1.
5. Bivouac sites — in the snowy cirque of the North saddle under the North wall of Dumala, on the Dumala peak, on the saddles of the ridge between the Dumala and Piramida peaks, on the Piramida peak and on the Ukju glacier.
6. Exit to the route not earlier than the end of July — avalanches!