7. Dykhni-Aush-bashi via the S ridge.

From the "Jangi-kosh" hut through the "sickle-shaped" moraine onto the Bezengi glacier, along the left (upstream) side of the glacier (watch out: covered crevices, rockfall hazard from the S slopes of peak Varsova) to the hollow at the base of the second S spur from the main Varsova—Sella ridge. Across the bottom of the hollow to the right and up into the cirque of Dykhni-Aush Pass and below the pass. From the hut 1.5–2 hours.

Over the bergschrund and up a snowy slope (may involve 80–100 m of ice, protection via ice screws) to the pass and to the left to the start of the rocky ridge. 40–50 m with piton protection:

• either via an inside corner to the left of the ridge,
• or via simple rock to the right of the ridge.

From here directly along the line of the ridge (watch out — dangerous on the left on the ledges: weak rock, possible ice), then along a level section to the left of the ridge to the pre-summit "gendarme". Climb onto the pre-summit "gendarme": from the ridge along a 5–7 m ledge to the left, then

Dykhni-Aush-bashi.