DYKH-TAU (W), SOUTHERN COUNTERFORTRESS — 5A

The initial bivouac is on a scree shelf at the base of the Central Southern counterfortress of G1. Dykh-Tau. Along the shelf to the right, cross the snow-ice couloir separating the central and right counterfortresses of G1. Dykh-Tau, descend a 3 m wall, and then ascend simple rocks of the right counterfortress to enter the main Southern couloir. The couloir (with loose rocks) is crossed to the right and upwards, exiting under the rocky base of the Southern counterfortress of East Dykh-Tau. Along rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, ascend 250–300 m under a 50 m wall.

Ascent to the 50 m wall:

• First, 30 m up the center of the wall,
• Then 20 m via a crack, exiting onto the shoulder of the wall.

From the shoulder, ascend rocks of medium difficulty under a rusty rock fall.

Passing the fall:

• First, directly upwards 30 m via a crack,
• Then traverse right along shelves and upwards 25–30 m via an inner corner.

A bypass to the right is possible. Above the fall — 80 m along shelves and rocks of medium difficulty on the right side of the counterfortress, exiting onto a saddle upwards to the left via a 10 m rocky couloir. 140–160 m of rocks of medium difficulty lead to a platform. A bivouac is possible here; the time from the initial bivouac is 9–12 hours.

From the platform:

• 150 m upwards along rocks of medium difficulty under a rocky ascent.
• Passing the ascent: 15–20 m traverse left, 30 m upwards via an inner corner, 40 m upwards to the left along simple rocks, exiting onto a saddle.
• 150–170 m upwards along the counterfortress, and via slabs and an inner corner, ascend to the next rocky ascent.
• The ascent is passed via a 25–30 m rocky chimney.
• Further along simple rocks — exit onto a rocky platform under the summit tower. Time from the previous platform is 5–6 hours.

Continue as per description 5.

Recommended itinerary:

• Day 1 — approach to the initial bivouac.
• Day 2 — ascend along the counterfortress to the first platform.
• Day 3 — exit onto the platform under the summit tower, ascend to the summit, and descend to the platform.
• Day 4 — descend via the Southern couloir and return to the camp.