Dumala. Via the SE buttress, category 4A

From the green campsites in the moraine pocket of the Ullu-Auz glacier, ascend along the moraine. Cross a stream and climb a steep talus (partially grassy) slope to a large snowfield (0) and traverse it until the narrow part of the large SE couloir of v. Dumala, known as the "gates," becomes visible (1). Up to this point, the route coincides with the path to the upper cirques of the Ullu-Auz glacier. From the green campsites, it takes 1 hour. It is recommended to spend the night here to pass through the "gates" by 4:00 AM. Rockfall begins at 5:00 AM. The ascent to the "gates" via snow takes about 1 hour. The "gates" are traversed on snow, hugging the right-hand rocks. After the "gates," the couloir widens and turns into a broad snow slope cut by avalanche gullies. Ascend on the right part of the slope under the cover of the rocks of the Eastern peak's ridge. The snow is firm. Protection is running belays.

Slightly below the start of the right buttress, a large rocky outcrop is visible (3). It takes 1.5-2 hours to reach the rocky outcrop from the "gates." Above the rocky outcrop, we reach rocks with ledges. Ascend 120 m up easy rocks to the 1st pinnacle (5). Via a chimney (2-3 pitons) and then an internal angle with regelation ice (continuation of the chimney, 50 m, 2 pitons), exit onto the crest of the buttress (4). Along the ridge, we approach a wall (10-12 m). Ascend the wall (2 pitons) and then a slab (2 pitons). The route continues along a severely serrated and degraded ridge under a large pinnacle (7). The summit of the large pinnacle (8) is a monolithic rock cut by a fissure, visible from a distance, almost from the start of the buttress, and serves as a good landmark. The ascent to the pinnacle is via difficult monolithic rocks, 3 ropes. Protection is via rock protrusions and pitons. The couloir to the right of the pinnacle is rockfall-prone. The pinnacle's summit is bypassed on a ledge to the right. Under the summit is a cairn. From the first pinnacle, traverse 80-90 m along a horizontal snow (or possibly rocky by the end of the season) ridge to the next ascent of the buttress. Then, 180-200 m along the serrated edge of the buttress. Protection is via rock protrusions. Occasionally, there are short, sharp snow bridges. The edge leads to the main ridge of v. Dumala. On the ridge is a depression suitable for camping. Continue to the summit along a snow-ice ridge. A crevasse (similar to a bergschrund) cutting the ridge is bypassed on the right. Protection is via ice axe. On the ridge, at the start of the season, there are large cornices: first on the left side and near the summit on the right side. From the green campsites to the summit takes 16 hours. Descend 100 m along the ridge to the west, and a depression under a rock makes a good bivouac site. The further descent along the W ridge and via the couloir to the Ullu-Auz glacier is the same as for the ascent via the S ridge (Saratov's route). The descent to the green campsites takes about 6 hours.