52. The Twins from the South, category III, route 26, fig. 27.

The ascent to the summit is done from the Panorama Peak cirque. The approach from the mouth of the Siama River along the Panorama Peak River takes 5 hours. It is possible to start the ascent from the lake below the Varzobskaja pila Peak. In this case, it is necessary to:

• Cross a grassy spur into the Panorama Peak valley
• Reach the foot of the Twins under the slopes of the Krylja Tadzhikistana Peaks. The ascent to the summit is via grassy slopes and scree with individual rock outcrops. In places, fine scree lies on slabs, requiring special care. Snow is present at the beginning of summer. The traverse from the Main summit to the Northeast summit is done through the gap between them. Descend from the Main summit down the rocks for 20–30 m to a ledge, from which a fixed rope leads to the col. The rope can be left in place and used upon return. Cross the sharp ridge of the col to beneath the Northeast summit. First, follow the scree ledge to the right of the ridge, then traverse the slab and easy rocks of the ridge to reach the summit. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. The ascent takes 8 hours. Fig. 27

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via route 2A cat. difficulty The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via route 4B cat. difficulty. At the same time, climbers ascend to the peak via the western wall and descend to the east, continuing the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to 2A cat. difficulty and can be recommended for badge holders and athletes. Approaches for the described ascent are made via the same paths as for the traverse of Varzob Saw from W to E via route 3B cat. difficulty, i.e., via the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The exit to the saddle is made in its right part (not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, gutters, etc. On the saddle:

• There are areas for setting up two tents.
• Snow is present almost all year round - on the northern side. Movement along the saddle to the Western peak:

Description

Ascent to the Western peak of Varzob Saw from the east via the 2A category route The Western peak of Varzob Saw (3830 m above sea level) is typically climbed by mountaineers during the traverse of the entire Varzob Saw via the 4B category route. In doing so, climbers ascend the peak via the western wall and descend to the east to continue the traverse. Until now, the ascent route to the peak from the east has not been classified, although it corresponds to the 2A category and can be recommended for badge holders and ranked climbers. The approach for this ascent is made via the same paths as for the Varzob Saw traverse from W to E: via the 3B category route, i.e., along the stream and then to the saddle between the Western peak and the main ridge. The ascent to the saddle is made on its right side (but not directly under the wall of the main ridge) via rough rocks with pronounced ledges, grooves, etc. There are areas on the saddle suitable for setting up two tents, and snow is present almost year-round on the northern side. Movement along the saddle towards the Western peak occurs:

• initially along the ledges on the northern side of the ridge,
• then, closer to the Western peak, on the southern side (belaying is mandatory). The ascent to the peak is made via short wall sections (1–1.5 m) alternating with ledges. The route here is easily chosen and passes:

PASSPORT

Ascents

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge.
3. Peak — Pik Vladivostok (4257 m) via the North-Eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 687 m; length of category 2 sections — 282 m; » » category 3 — 303 m;

Championship of Leningrad

in mountaineering 1935 Technical class

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Zamin-Karor 2nd Western peak via the shortest path on the NW wall, cat. 5-5, by the team of LOC DSO "Burvestnik" from August 8 to 12, 1935 Team captain — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich Team coach — MS USSR Glushko Vyacheslav Ivanovich.

Ascent passport

I. Ascent class

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area: Gissar Ridge
3. Climbing route with summit height: Zamin Karor 1st West via NW ridge, Shramko - 4303 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category - 6B
5. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 73°, length of sections IV–VI cat. diff. 850 m
6. Pitons driven: rock 57, ice 0, bolt 0
7. Number of travel hours: 29

44

Climbing Report of the Ukrainian Sports Committee Team at the 4th USSR Alpine Climbing Championship (Technical Class) 1979

Climbing Details

1. Climbing Class: Technical
2. Climbing Area: Yaghnob Wall
3. Peak, its Height, and Climbing Route: 1st West Zamin-Karora, 4303 m, via the center of the left part of the wall.
4. Proposed Complexity Category: 6B.
5. Route Characteristics: height difference – 1353 m; route length – 1670 m; average steepness – 87°; section lengths: 3 – 200 m, 2 – 10 m, 4 – 250 m, 5 – 640 m, 6 – 570 m.
6. Number of Pitons: for belaying:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Yaghnob Wall area.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Zamin-Karor West shoulder, 3910 m, via the center of the NW wall.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Height difference (from the base of the wall) — 1100 m.
6. Average steepness — 60°.
7. Total route length — 1600 m.
8. Length of sections: 1st cat. diff. — 230 m; 2nd cat. diff. — 100 m; 3rd cat. diff. — 580 m; 4th cat. diff. — 420 m; 5th cat. diff. — 140 m.
9. Number of pitons driven:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Ascent route — First ascent via the shortest path on the Western wall D-3 of Zamin Karor peak — 3709 m. 4. Ascent characteristics height difference — 1150 m. (total height difference for the entire route is 1400 m, including the lower rocky belt) average steepness — 85° length of complex sections — 1060 m. 5. Pitons used: rock — 277 ice — none

Passport

1. Class of ascent
2. Region of ascent, ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route
4. Proposed category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics: height difference average steepness
6. Pitons hammered for belay
7. Number of travel hours
8. Overnights