Ascent Passport

I. Ascent category — Rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge 3. Ascent route — First ascent via the shortest path on the Western wall D-3 of Zamin Karor peak — 3709 m. 4. Ascent characteristics height difference — 1150 m. (total height difference for the entire route is 1400 m, including the lower rocky belt) average steepness — 85° length of complex sections — 1060 m. 5. Pitons used: rock — 277 ice — none bolt — 13 6. Total climbing hours — 76.5 7. Number of overnight stays on the route — 4, including 3 in hammocks and one lying down 8. Team from the Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Tajik SSR. 9. Team members: Galitsyn Yuri Nikolayevich — team leader, Candidate for Master of Sports Lavrukhin Vyacheslav Ivanovich — team member, Master of Sports Pletmintsev Vladimir Vasilyevich — team member, Master of Sports Skrigatil Anatoly Mikhailovich — team member, Candidate for Master of Sports 10. Team coach Sogrin Sergey Nikolayevich, Master of Sports, senior instructor 11. Dates of departure and return June 30 and July 1, 1977 — route reconnaissance July 2, 1977 — departure on the route July 5, 1977 — reaching the summit July 6, 1977 — descent to the base camp

I. Safety Measures

The safety of the ascent was ensured by:

• thorough team preparation;
• selection of a safe route;
• choice of overnight locations;
• thoughtful tactical plan;
• availability of radio communication;
• excellent technical and psychological training of team members.

The success of the ascent was facilitated by a training cycle that included a grade 6 route on Zindon peak, where technical and tactical techniques were tested.

During the ascent period, highly qualified training camps of "Burevestnik", Ukrainian "Spartak" were operating in the area, capable of providing assistance in a short time.

Ascent Chronicle

The last turn of the path. Eyes are fixed on the Western wall of Zamin Karor. Through binocular lenses, we scan the gray, heat-radiating wall, trying to spot even small ledges. But hopes are in vain. The wall rises like a kilometer-high sheer above the gorge, making it clear that the struggle will be difficult and uncompromising.

For millions of years, nature has been processing the wall, preparing it for a battle with humans:

• polishing the walls;
• smoothing out the slightest protrusions;
• placing cornices in the most unfavorable locations.

Another 1.5 hours of walking through the village of Margib, and under the wall by the Pindor River, a camp of observers is set up in a thicket of barberry and wild rose.

The scree slope leads up to the wall. The lower part of the wall is cut by an almost horizontal terrace, where a small birch grove is nestled near a waterfall gushing from the wall. We decided to:

• establish a storming camp;
• consider this the starting point of the route.

Although the difference between this grove and the starting point is about 250 m of the first rocky belt.

June 30, 1977

The section we decided to consider as the approach to the route — the rocky belt with a waterfall — forced us to pull out the rope and pitons from the very first meters. The scree led to a 20-meter wall of the rocky belt. Vyacheslav Lavrukhin went first. The ascent is not complicated, not above category 3. Further along the limestone slabs with live rocks for about 200 m to the second 50-meter wall, leading to the forest.

Bright green crowns of birch trees leaned over the transparent keys of icy water gushing from the scree slope. Through the lush greenery of grass and giant burdocks, white, fantastically curved birch trunks shone through.

The storming camp was quickly set up. Everyone was eager to touch the wall, to feel the inaccessible rocks. Up close, the wall looked even more terrifying. A multi-meter cornice looming over the sheer lower part of the wall. But the team's mood was good.

Team readiness:

• Morally and technically, everyone was ready for the upcoming route difficulties;
• Specialized equipment was selected;
• Training and a complex grade 6 route were behind us.

Svyatoslav Lavrukhin and Anatoly Skrigatil were the first to go on reconnaissance. The route from the grove begins upwards through the outpost of the Western wall — a black bastion. With a 250-meter rocky "belly", it proudly bulged forward from the wall. Black, smoothed rocks. Inaccessible like a mirror, they shone in the rays of the scorching Tajik sun.

70 m of very steep rocks like "ram's foreheads" led to the sheer wall of the bastion. In the right part, at the contact between black and gray streaks, a crack was visible, which, with interruptions, stretched to the very top of the bastion. To the right of the lower part of the crack — a small cornice and a rock fragment in the form of a slab standing on a long edge.

Climbing was extremely difficult; ladders were used. The sound of a hammer, the clinking of pitons, and clear commands: "Hand out the red one", "Fix the white one" carried from the wall to the storming camp. The black bastion slowly receded. Finger pads turned red from tension; even finding footholds for climbing boots was challenging. To ensure reliable insurance, we had to use bolt pitons. Soft limestone allowed us to quickly drill a hole. Meters were gained slowly, but time passed quickly. It was getting dark; it was time to descend. 180 m of very complex climbing were completed, with:

• 52 rock pitons driven;
• 2 bolt pitons.

After dinner, we fell asleep quickly, the tension of the first day was evident. Tomorrow would be an early rise and an even more intense day. We needed to reach the bastion and deliver 20 liters of water.

July 1, 1977

At dawn, the team of Yuri Galitsyn and Vladimir Pletmintsev set out for further processing. It was pleasant to work in the morning coolness; the rocks were refreshingly cold.

20 m along the crack led to an overhang. Here, the wall had a negative incline over a 7-meter stretch. Ladders and a platform were used. Climbing was very difficult; sweat obscured vision, making work challenging. It wasn't any easier further on — an ideal sheer with microscopic holds. Apparently, the wall was determined to test all the team's capabilities right from the start, before allowing them to reach the summit. It was very hard to go first. Tension made fingers numb. Resting at a driven piton was a relief. The belayer often had to work, hanging on a piton in a harness. Excellent rock climbing skills and, most importantly, faith in the piton driven by a teammate, provided confidence.

Finally, the first climber reached a small ledge crowning the black bastion. From below, Lavrukhin and Skrigatil pulled up 21 liters of water in flasks and a large polyethylene bag using a rope. After securing the rope, everyone descended. During the evening radio communication, we informed the observers that we would be departing on the route the next day.

For the day, we processed another 160 m of very complex, almost sheer rocks. We drove:

• 42 pitons;
• one bolt piton.

July 2, 1977

In the morning, we packed our backpacks, trying to lighten them as much as possible. Specially made "elephant feet" and lightweight jackets significantly reduced the weight. We took:

• raincoats instead of a tent.

The wall was completely dry, and the sun was scorching from 1:00 PM to 9:00 PM. Pletmintsev, with the captain's tacit consent, put another flask of water in his backpack.

Team members left the storming camp at 1-hour intervals, where they could stretch out to their full height and drink plenty of tea. During the ascent, we used an "American" method of transporting backpacks:

• it hung at foot level;
• was suspended from the harness;
• only legs worked with the load;
• hands were free;
• did not pull backwards when passing cornices.

Galitsyn tried to carry his backpack on his shoulders but quickly gave up. The ascent via sheer fixed ropes was very energy-consuming; catching our breath on re-clips was difficult.

Lavrukhin and Skrigatil reached the end of the fixed ropes and started working above. Above the bastion, the rocks were not steep, with good holds. After 60 m, they led to a sheer inner corner with a wide gap in the middle. At the base of the corner was a convenient spot for an overnight stay.

Lavrukhin continued moving forward. The others:

• organized a bivouac;
• drove pitons;
• hung hammocks.

Two would sleep in hammocks, and two on small ledges. On a platform suspended from a piton, a primus stove hummed cozily, and steam rose from a pot. Below, the village of Margib disappeared into the twilight.

For the day, we covered 340 m of fixed ropes and 60 m of rocks of medium difficulty. The rope was secured for another 30 m above. We filled our flasks with water — 13 liters. The rest of the water had to be consumed for dinner and breakfast on July 3, 1977.

We departed from the bivouac at 8:00 AM. The fixed rope system was a necessity from the processing days. From today, our movement tactic would be independent rope teams. Climbing was complex, but the group was prepared for it. There were only 3 backpacks in the group, one was lightweight — for the first climber in the second rope team. He would have to climb with bottom insurance, using the pitons driven by the first rope team. This would significantly reduce the time taken to complete the route, which was of paramount importance on the Western wall, as every extra day meant liters of water, which were scarce.

Pletmintsev and Galitsyn began their ascent up the inner corner. The left side consisted of live rocks and rock spires. The right side was monolithic. Climbing was extremely challenging:

• 50 m up the sheer right wall of the corner;
• then left towards the gap of the inner corner, using wedges and ladders.

The inner corner led to the "lamb's foreheads" of light gray limestone. There were very few cracks; most were blind, with pitons entering only 1–1.5 cm and bending under hammer blows. The "lamb's foreheads" hung one above the other, forming a wall. Climbing was very complex and emotional, with tiny holds. The first climber worked on a double rope, searching for cracks for pitons and driving them in for more reliable insurance, including a bolt piton. 30 m of the most complex climbing. Climbing boots and friction helped. 1 hour and 30 minutes were spent on these 30 m, with 10 rock pitons and one bolt piton driven.

Above, there was another inner corner, but wider than the lower part. The walls were sheer, composed of blocks of light gray limestone. Climbing was challenging; fingers slipped on the smooth surface. It was hard to hang on microscopic holds; only after driving a piton could one rest. The sun was at its peak:

• back and helmet were hot;
• legs burned;
• mouth was dry from heat and work;
• talking was difficult.

Below, the second rope team worked confidently. Svyatoslav Lavrukhin was the first to climb. He was an excellent rock climber, a former prize-winner at USSR rock climbing championships. We let the second rope team pass.

The ascent continued along the right side of the corner. 80 m of complex climbing took 3 hours. Then 30 m of smooth, steep rocks led under a cornice crowning the inner corner. Under the cornice was a small ledge where two people could fit. We hung hammocks, stretching them in the inner corner under the protection of the cornice. For the day, we covered:

• 210 m of steep rocks;
• with extremely complex climbing.

July 4, 1977

The night passed well; two slept in hammocks, and two on a ledge. Galitsyn ascended left-upwards from the inner corner via a three-meter overhang on a double rope. Climbing was free but very complex. We offered the second rope team fixed ropes. Lavrukhin passed the cornice and relieved Galitsyn. Above the cornice were 30 m of light gray rocks like "lamb's foreheads". Climbing was very complex; holds were tiny again. Climbing boots were already worn out. Lavrukhin spent 1 hour and 30 minutes on this section. Then a traverse left along a 5-meter ledge. Through a two-meter cornice, using ladders, we exited into the inner corner. The walls of the corner were smooth, but there was a good crack — 10 m very complex. Further, steep "lamb's foreheads" after 40 m led to a ledge. Above the ledge was a sheer wall with a crack going left-upwards. Climbing was complex along smooth, gray limestone with a steepness of up to 85°. 60 m of climbing along the crack led to a vertical inner corner. But the entrance to the corner was blocked by an overhanging "lamb's forehead". There were no other options. Using ladders and a bolt piton, we exited into the corner. Along the corner, climbing was free.

The second rope team climbed heavily. Climbing was very complex; many pitons had to be driven. We passed iron on a rope-rep constantly upwards.

Pitons didn't go well into the side walls of the corner; all cracks were filled with calcite — a very soft and fragile rock; everything crumbled under hammer blows. To organize reliable insurance, we had to drive a bolt piton into the monolithic wall of the corner.

40 m of climbing along the corner led to rock spires. There were holds, but many were unreliable — they broke under load, and below us was a sheer drop. Lavrukhin climbed extremely cautiously, driving pitons whenever possible. Climbing was complex and emotional. 10 m of overhanging spires required giving it one's all. With relief, he reached a small platform above the spires and drove in a piton. That was it! Now, one could rest.

We offered the second rope team fixed ropes on this dangerous section. They quickly climbed up to the platform using the rope.

It always felt like the next wall was looming over us. Indeed, each subsequent section was extremely steep. We chose a path to the left, where many cracks for pitons were visible. A ladder, another one, body leaning back from the wall; having to attach the lower belt carabiner to a piton; fingers searching for holds on the smooth wall surface — there were none. Cracks were small and blind. Hope was only on a bolt piton. The hole was drilled quickly:

• the rocks were very soft.

Another ladder. One could rest! Further on, good holds were visible. Free climbing led to a wide crack and then to a small ledge.

From the ledge upwards, a sheer, wide chimney with an overhanging plug at the top stretched. We climbed using free climbing. It was a pleasure! Thick horizontal pitons were used. Under the plug, we moved to the left wall of the chimney and climbed up along a fissure to light gray rocks — steep and smooth. After 50 m, we reached a small ledge, under which huge limestone blocks loomed. We stopped for the night under this overhang.

The day was very difficult. We covered about 300 m. Our throats were parched; we had no strength to talk; we wanted to drink. We left water only for the morning, as we were supposed to reach the summit the next day, where we could find water. We drank the rest of the water in the evening.

July 5, 1977. We rose early in the morning; the night was restless. It was very cramped on the platform. Those who slept in hammocks rested better. Today was the decisive day. We had to reach the summit, and the wall had prepared a final cornice at the top. Lavrukhin would be the first to work. During the morning radio communication, we heard the coach's voice. The first question was: "How's the water situation?" We learned that Sogrin S.N., along with judge Nadkyaiev Alexashin L.V., had climbed to the observers' camp the night before.

20 m of free climbing led under a large ledge. The exit to the ledge was via 10 m of sheer, smooth wall.

From the ledge, the further path was visible. About 200 m of smooth wall with two cornices in the middle.

Lavrukhin ascended along a slab to a small ledge under the cornice. Here, he needed to take the second climber. To the left of the cornice was a smooth, monolithic wall; to the right, an overhanging plane of the inner corner. The path upwards was only through the cornice. There were enough cracks.

Ladders and a platform were put to work. Above the cornice was a vertical crack. One could climb using free climbing. We passed additional pitons to Svyatoslav. The cornice was passed by the second rope team via a fixed rope.

From the crack, there was an exit into the inner corner. Along its left wall, we climbed to a small ledge. From the ledge, there was another complex path through the second cornice. But here, we found a simpler option for passing it. The second rope team went first. Galitsyn, using ladders and extremely complex free climbing, overcame the overhang.

Above the cornice were 40 m of wall with good holds. We climbed using free climbing. And suddenly, the wall ended! A large, flat platform. Everyone gathered together.

The sun was setting on the horizon. There was no water. The summit was visible ahead. We decided to continue. Via radio, we informed the observers that we would spend the night near the summit and descend to the camp early in the morning.

We covered about 200 m along rocks that were not very steep, up to 70°, and under the summit tower, in a fissure, found a piece of ice. Here, we set up for the night. Everyone stretched out to their full height.

July 6, 1977. Early in the morning, without breakfast, quickly changing the note in the cairn, we began our descent along the scree slopes of the Yaghnob wall's southern slope. We passed the canyon via a barely noticeable but familiar path and were at the observers' camp by 8:00 AM.

Assessment of the group's actions and its members

All team members:

• had been part of the republic's national team for several years;
• had repeatedly performed together;
• had become prize-winners at USSR championships.

Despite the significant technical, psychological, and physical strain of the route, the ascent proceeded in a calm atmosphere. Team members worked with full dedication, demonstrating:

• high technical skill;
• tactical literacy.

Thanks to excellent rock climbing preparation and successful tactical decisions, the team maintained a fairly high pace on the route.

Galitsyn Yu.N. — a strong, goal-oriented athlete with excellent individual climbing technique. Tactically literate, decisive, and energetic. A demanding and principled leader.

Lavrukhin V.I. — a very calm and composed athlete with high individual rock climbing skills, a prize-winner at all-Union rock climbing championships. He had climbed almost all routes on the Yaghnob wall. Able to analyze situations, technical difficulties, and make correct decisions.

Skrigatil A.M. — an athlete of exceptional will and endurance. Excellently technically prepared, a strong tactician.

Pletmintsev V.V. — an experienced climber with excellent technical and physical preparation. Tactically literate.

Team coach S. Sogrin Team captain Yu. Galitsyn

Table of main route characteristics

Route: First ascent via the shortest path on the Western wall D-3 of Zamin Karor peak.

Analysis of the table of main route characteristics and the profile scheme allows us to conclude that the distinctive feature of the route is its significant length with an overall steepness close to sheer. This applies to its wall section.

The summit tower:

• is located somewhat further from the wall plane;
• the exit to it is gentler and technically simpler.

The insignificant proportion of this section in the overall total of extremely complex sections is not decisive in the overall assessment of the route.

The total height difference from the scree reaches 1400 m. However, the lower rocky belt (250 m) — the exit to the terrace under the wall — can be excluded, as it was considered by the team as an approach directly to the wall (by analogy with a snow-and-ice approach to a combined route), although ropes were used on these sections, and the difficulty did not exceed category 2–3.

The Western wall has a concave shape, with an overall width reaching 1 km. This circumstance complicated the photography of the route profile. To the right, the wall is bordered by a ridge, along which a category 4 route is laid. Only from here was it possible to take a photo, which is given in the report and most objectively characterizes the route.

The steepness of the route was determined from a profile photograph, through graphical construction, and from observations, and ranged from 82° to 87°. More accurate measurements require special instruments.

The given objective data and the route assessment by participants in comparison with previously climbed category 6 routes and within the framework of USSR championships allow us to evaluate this route as the highest — category 6B.

Table of main route characteristics