Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge
3. Zerkalny peak, via the western ridge shelf.
4. Proposed 3B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference – 280 m. Total length – 340 m. Average slope of the entire route – 45°. Crux slope – 70–75°. Length of sections with IV, V category of difficulty – 75–80 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Fifi hooks – 2 pcs., anchor pitons – 7 pcs., stoppers – 8 pcs., cams – 30 pcs.
7. Climbing hours: 12, days: 1.

Ascent Log

1. Area – Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, p. 6.2
2. Peak – Ptitsa, 2221 m, via the chimney of the South face.
3. Claimed – 2B category of difficulty – first ascent
4. Route nature – rock climbing
5. Height difference – 160 m. Total length – 200 m. Average slope of the entire route – 51°. Average slope of the key section – 60°. Length of sections with IV category of difficulty – 70 m.
6. Equipment used on the route: Stopper – 12 pcs, Cams – 18 pcs.

ASCENT LOG

1. North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Malo-Almatinsky spur
2. Peak Abay (4010 m), South Ridge
3. Cat. 1B diff.
4. Route type — rocky
5. Route elevation gain — 70 m. Route length — 550 m. Length of sections: Cat. V diff. — none. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (sections R9–R11, R16) — 75°
   • entire route — 30°

7.28

Republican Climbers' and Tourists' Club

Report

• ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE AKSAI HORSESHOE BY A GROUP OF CLIMBERS FROM THE REPUBLICAN CLIMBING CLUB
• (March 1-8, 1959) 1959 Alma-Ata

Orography of the Aksai Horseshoe Area

From the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge, a powerful Kaskelen spur branches off northwards at Peak Tur (4720 m). For the first 2 km, this spur separates the glaciers:

• Kaskelen (basin of the right tributary of the Kaskelen River),

Ascent Log.

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan.
3. Ascent route — Peak Amangeldy, 4100 m from the north.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A.
5. Ascent characteristics:
   1. Elevation gain — 500 m.
   2. Average steepness — 54°.
   3. Length of complex section — 155 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 25 pcs.

Route Description

From the Mynzhilki weather station, ascend to Alpingrad. The traverse begins with peak Amangeldy 1B from the West (see description of Amangeldy 1B from the West). After the summit, descend in the eastern direction towards Pionerisky Pass via the 2B category route. From Pionerisky Pass, ascend to peak Pioner via the 1B category route. Then move south towards the summit of Uchitel (see description of the traverse Uchitel - Pioner 3A). From the summit of Uchitel, descend east via the 2A category route to peak Uchitel until the Heroes of Panfilov Pass. Ascend to peak Heroes of Panfilov via the 2B category route along the western ridge (see description). Descend towards Mametova Pass. From Mametova Pass, follow the route to Manshuk Mametova via the northern ridge 3B category until the summit (see description). Descend via the 2A category route from the M. Mametova glacier. Then descend to Alpengrad. Completed by a group led by T. Lebedev in 1999.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants - 6-8 people.
2. Initial bivouac - Alpengrad.

Peak Asker, "Avalon" (100 m, 70′, 6a+), K. Belotserkovsky, 2010

R0–R1. Twenty meters up easy rocks to a large rock spall. Station on a juniper bush. R1–R2. Up and right to a large slab with two parallel cracks. Climb the first one. The crack gets narrower in the upper part, but the slope is gentle, so in dry weather it won't be a problem. Then, using the internal dihedral and belaying on its left wall, get over a small ledge (the crux of the route). Station on three pitons, two of which are half-driven, three meters higher. R2–R4. Up and right along the edge. The first two protection points are juniper bushes. Then up along the edge to a ledge. A logical option was to go slightly left to a ledge that

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area, ridge: North Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. Geroyev Panfilovtsev, 4020 m, via the western ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 165 m; route length — 480 m; sections 5–6 cat. diff. are absent; average steepness — 20°.
6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 3, ice and bolt pitons were not used.
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 40 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: there are no overnight stays on the route.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their qualifications:

Climbing Area Map

Profile, view from the southwest. Profile, view from the south. Profile, view from the southwest. TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE Note: Pitons used to create artificial holds are indicated by a fraction. From the Talgar alp camp, follow the trail up the Sredny Talgar River to the Severny Talgar glacier, then up the Severny Talgar glacier. Overnight at the moraine at the foot of the IyinTau slope.

and the inner corner, and again along the middle rocks to a sloping platform, in the upper corner of which there is a cairn with a note. Descent to the snowy ridge, leaving three pre-summit gendarmes on the right side. Bypassing them along steep snowslopes, in three steps, leading to the base of the summit tower. Along easy rocks and large stones, exit to a small saddle between the pre-summit gendarme and the summit tower. From here, ascent to the summit tower, 50–60 m high, and exit (with careful belay) to a rocky platform with "live" stones under an overhanging wall with an inner corner. Exit to the tower through a cleft from the platform under the inner corner straight up. The rocks are difficult. Belay through a ledge. A few meters from the platform, there is a wide horizontal crack:

• Hammer in a piton for belay and foothold.
• Above, there is a small inclined shelf, along which one can enter the cleft.
• Further, on friction, exit to the summit ridge and along it, after a few meters, to the summit. Descent along the scree to the Konstituciya Glacier. From the initial bivouac, the entire ascent takes 7–8 hours.

Recommendations for Climbers

1. Number of participants: 6–8 people. Not recommended for mass ascents.