Sokol – 12 y.o.

Ryжий угол (Red corner) 5A cat. diff. #26

R0–R2: 100 m, simple climbing straight up to the right (start as in "Galochka" mt.). R2–R3: 35 m, 5b+. Dangerous rope due to crumbling rock. Belay is relative. Station on a micro-shelf in the corner on a piton and a new bolt. R3–R4: 35 m, 6a+, A2. Difficult, overhanging rope. Protection on pitons and some own (big cams). In the upper part, loose rocks, be careful. Better to move left to a crack. Station on a ledge on bolts. R4–R5: 50 m, 5c. Hard climbing on quite crumbling terrain. Protection is difficult. Station on a half-lying tree on a ledge. R5–R6: 35 m. Easy traverse rightwards along the ledge towards "Galochka". Station on a tree. Then you can go in two ways:

• left through a "gully", towards "Grebnevaya dvojka" and then along it;
• continue rightwards along the ledge till the junction with "Galochka" route.

Equipment:

Rope 50–60 m, nuts, cams (big sizes mandatory), extenders, 1–3 ladders, 14–16 quickdraws, hammer, pitons.

General impressions:

Difficult 5A, requiring the ability to realistically assess the situation and organize belay properly. The skill level of "Pravyj Romb" (Right Rhombus) may be insufficient for this route. Climbing time for an average team is 5–6 hours

Sokol (Crimea) — "Amazonka" 5A

Sokol mountain. Crimea A new route has been passed on Sokol mountain in Crimea. Participants of the ascent:

• Maxim Kuralesov, Nikopol city
• Mikhail Poddubnov, Dnipropetrovsk city The length of the route is 300 m. The proposed category of complexity is 5A. This ascent is not a first ascent in the pure form. According to information from Sergey Nadtochy, the lower four sections were once climbed by Vladimir Kudrigsky, but he was not the first ascender either. There were indeed pitons there. Above, there were no traces. Although the inner corner leading to the yayla could have been used as a finish for the routes:

Sokol — 23 45 m, 85′ Sokol, m-t "Zapятая" 5A, F6b (or V+, A1), 230 m

Description prepared by: Maksim Kostrov and Olga Kostrova

From the asphalted observation deck on the road, move first along the slope overgrown with forest, then:

• left along the rocky mulde to a long shelf going left;
• from the shelf to the right upwards along the slabs and trees to a large shelf under the wall.

Sokol-37

Brow 5B

Classic Fantikov's fifth category route, passes through an overhang in the right part of the wall. A beautiful and logical route, not very difficult. The start of the route is under the overhang from the shelf to the right of the slab leaning against the wall. Two parallel cracks lead to the overhang, converging about 10 meters above the shelf. Climb via the right one. Well-equipped, recently repaired. R1 — Up the slabs (bolts) 10 m, then traverse right (to the right crack), into a little corner, along it, then along the crack to the belay station (2 bolts). R1 40 m 80° V+. R2 — Up under the overhang (via a flake, protection — friends), through the overhang via bolts. Immediately after the overhang is the belay station. R2 15 m 95° V A1.

Author: Yu. Vasilenko

Description of the "Brov'" route, 5A, Sokol mountain

The route is very beautiful and diverse in climbing. Stations on bolts. Nowadays, the route has been re-drilled by Misha Voloshinovskiy for climbing and is done mostly with free climbing, except for the "brov'" section. To start, one needs to approach the wall from the road. The climbing is similar to 3rd category routes, and belaying needs to be organized. The start of the route is on a ledge under the "Brov'" cornice, to the right of a slab leaning against the wall. At this spot, two gaps lead under the cornice. One can move either through the right or the left gap. Sokol, Brov' route, 5A R0–R1: 45–50 m, 6b, belaying on bolts + own protection, station on a bolt and two pitons (the left variant of reaching the station requires a pendulum). The start of the first rope is through a slab, which is the crux of the rope. The climbing is mixed, with free climbing interspersed with aid climbing, and constant "under-climbing". 1st variant.

• Climb 10 m up the slabs, then traverse right to the "right" gap, and up through it to the station. 2nd variant.

Sokol — 39

The "Malevolent Dwarf" 5A, 255 m 6B, A2 Lavrinenko A., Tushko T. (August 7, 2007) The route starts 100 m to the right of the beginning of the approach to "Brov'" and "Gran'".

• R0–R1: Easy climbing up the cleft to a tree, 50 m 4.
• R1–R2: From the tree, go up to a ledge below the "Brov'" route, 60 m 5B.
• R2–R3: Climb up the corner formed by the wall and an overhanging rock; protection is hard to organize. The station is on a ledge on its own pitons, 35 m 6A+/5C, A1. R3–R4: From the station, go up and to the right into a cleft, bypassing "rattling" overhangs. Then follow the clefts, veering right at the top onto a ledge. The station is on a bolt and pitons. 60 m 5C. 4–5. From the station, start up the corner to the left for 5 m, then continue straight up. The terrain is rich but crumbling, with many unreliable blocks.
• Climb the inner corner (there's a bolt) to below an overhang
• Pass the overhang on pitons (pitons in place)

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches). The route was climbed on 11–12.10.2013 by Zakolodnii A.V. and Olivson A.Ya. The route is interesting and varied, following the natural terrain. The route passes between the «Two cornices» 5A and «Red corner» 5A routes, through the center of the two cornices. Two bolts were left on the stations along the route. Sokol mountain routes (Crimea)

Technical description.

«Cornice in the fog» 5B, VI, A2+, 351 m (9 pitches) From the road, orienting on a large red overhang in the lower part of the wall, approach the route. The first station is on a cypress tree. R0–R1 30 m. V. From the tree up to a large tree at the beginning of a large corner. Station on a large tree. R1–R2 50 m. VI, A2. Up the corner to the second horizontal crack 20 m. IV. Then traverse left to a system of small slots and cavities 8 m. V. Further up, orienting on a gully with bushes 22 m. VI, A2. Station in the upper part of the gully on personal anchors.

So­kol — 22

Authors: Se­rey Nad­to­chiy (Terr), Aleksandr Kuz­mi­ts­kiy “Be­lyy kvadr­at” (White Square) 5B/6A F6c, A2, 300 m — So­kol, Crimea So­kol Over the past year, a lot of work has been done to describe alpinist routes on the So­kol massif, which is located in Su­dak (Crimea). There are already descriptions of more than 30 routes (not counting variations), and several new ones have been climbed. The work is not yet finished and will continue, so it is too early to talk about the results, but apparently, all the collected information will take the form of a printed guidebook.

Sokol ­— 24

Author: Alex Kuzmitsky, Moscow New route on Sokol: "Zapakh zhenshchiny" (6c, A2+) I wanted to climb this line for a long time, but it didn't work out. Either I had to walk and describe routes for the guidebook, or help Terr пробивать rock climbing trails on Bolvan. And there was never enough time for a new project. Finally, during the last May holidays, I found time to implement my plan. Tension. There should be no more and no less bolts than required for safe passage of the route. This is important. Moreover, you need to try not to lose the thread and not lead the route somewhere to the side or to the wrong crack by mistake. Experience, sense of relief and preliminary preparation help here, when you spend hours examining the wall, studying section by section of the proposed line. gratitude to Lena Kuznetsova for kind words and humor, Andrey Petrov for support and being there, Misha Volkov for endurance, Yulia Kuznetsova for intolerance in views and critical thinking, Tolya Dzhuliy for guitar and arrival, Den Zhilin for acquaintance and openness, Terr for "Russian translation" and everything else, Igor Petrov for hospitably hosting us again at his rescue service and, of course, to my partner Zhenya Kholodov for hard work and iron will. R2­–­R3: 40 ­m, 5B. Up and then to the right along the crack with grass, through several characteristic bushes. Insurance with nuts and pitons. Station on two bolts at the end of the crack, next to a large almost dead belay ledge.

Sokol — 25

Bodun 5Б difficulty category (A. Sergeev, also known as "Kommunist") Bodun 1st rope R0–R1: 25–30 m, 6c, A2+. Even, interesting slabby artificial terrain with some 5c–6c climbing sections. The first few meters have a risk of falling onto the belayer from a considerable height. After the second bolt (third one), traverse right to a poorly visible piton, then go up, aiming for the left part of the cornice. The belay station is on two bolts. R1–R2: 25 — 30 m, 5B, A0. Re-clip through bolts and pitons up into the left corner of the cornice, then traverse right and up with your own protection. The belay station is on two bolts and a piton. R2–R3: 35 m, 5B. Up the overgrown crack, then move left across the slab 3–5 m to an internal corner. Protection is your own + bolts and pitons. The belay station is in the internal corner on two bolts and a piton. R3–R4: 50 m, 5B. Protection is on bolts and pitons + your own. The belay station is on a bolt and a piton in the internal corner. R4–R5: 30–35 m, 6A. The belay station is in the internal corner under an overhanging wall. R5–R6: 25 m, 6C.

• Through the overhang (two bolts)