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The ascent of the "Dzhailyk" team of climbers to the South summit of Ushba (4710 m) via the east wall in the Central Caucasus in 1975.

I. Climbing category — technically challenging. 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus. 3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights — Ushba, South Peak, 4710 m via the East Face. 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 1700 m, including the most difficult part — 850 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 75°, length of the difficult section — 1015 m. 5. Pitons hammered: rock — 3II, ice — 5, bolt — 2. 6. Number of climbing hours (on ascent) — 110.40.

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Report on the first ascent of the west wall of South Ushba (4710) by the "Ditoria" mountaineering team in 1977.

Report

on the first ascent of the South Ushba (4710 m) west wall by the "Digoriya" alpine camp team consisting of:

    1. Slesov I.V. — team captain, Master of Sports of the USSR
    1. Shevandrin N.I. — deputy captain, Candidate for Master of Sports
    1. Dzhioev G.L. — Master of Sports of the USSR
    1. Mikhalev V.E. — Candidate for Master of Sports Rostov-on-Don 1977
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Description of the ascent route to the Ushba summit via the West wall, category 5B difficulty, with a detailed analysis of the tactics and technical actions of the team.

Passport

I. Climbing Category 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak YUZHNAYA USHBA via the West Face, Slesov's route 4. Category 5B, second ascent 5. Elevation gain: 1770 m, route length – 2585 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty – 920 m, average steepness of main sections – 65° 6. Pitons driven: rock, bolt, nut, ice 140, 0, 97, 20

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Ascent of the Pigoria a/t team to the Ushba South summit (4710 m) via the west face in Central Caucasus.

  1. Climbing category Mechanical (92)
  2. Climbing area Central Caucasus
  3. Climbing route with indication Ushba South peak and their heights via the western wall 4710 m.
  4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 1690 m (without icefall), average steepness 67°, route length 1931 m (without icefall), length of difficult sections more than 300 m.
  5. Pitons hammered in: rock 277, ice 51, bolt 24
  6. Number of climbing hours 74.5 h
  7. Number of nights and their characteristics: 8 of them: normal in a tent 2, sitting in a suspended tent 5, sleepless in hammocks 1
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Ascent to the summit Ushba South via the glaciers of the North-West wall, first ascent 6B category of difficulty in 1982 and second ascent in 1983.

PASSPORT

  1. Class — ice and snow
  2. Central Caucasus, Ushbinsky spur of the Main Caucasian Range.
  3. Ushba South peak (4710 m) via the icefalls of the Northwest, Northwestern wall.
  4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Elevation difference: 2210 m, length 3630 m, length including traverses — 3800 m. Length of sections 5–6 — 2300 m. Average steepness of main sections 40° (2500 m – 4710 m). Of these, 6 — 140 m (90°, 3030–3130); (90°, 3565–3605 m).
  6. Number of pitons driven — 233: | Rock | Bolts | Chocks | Ice screws | | :--: | :-----: | :--: | :-----: | | 39/0 | 0/0 | 4/0 | 190/0 |
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Report on the ascent made by the combined team of Krasnoyarsk region up the Southwest Wall of Ushba South (4710 m) in winter 2011, grade 6B.

MINISTRY OF SPORTS, TOURISM AND YOUTH POLICY OF KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY KRASNOYARSK TERRITORY SPORTS FEDERATION OF ALPINISM

Championship of Russia

2011 Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

Report

Of the combined team of Krasnoyarsk Territory Peak Ushba South 4710 m via south-west face, 2nd passage of the variant Moshnikov 1986. Suggested:

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Report on the ascent of Ushba South via the Myshlyaev route, category 6A, with a detailed description of the route and technical details.

Moscow Alpine Championship 2016 High-altitude Technical Class

Report

On the ascent to Ushba South (4710 m) via the left part of the southwest wall (Myslyaev's Route) 6A category of complexity The teams from the Mountain Club "Alpindustria" together with the Alpine Federation of Samara Region on August 19–22, 2016 Moscow 2016

Ascent Passport

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Report on the traverse of South Ushba — North Ushba, category 6A climb, by the team from NRU MGSU, August 28 — September 2, 2023.

REPORT

ON COMPLETING THE TRAVERSE OF SOUTHERN USHBA – NORTHERN USHBA 6A DIFFICULTY LEVEL BY THE TEAM FROM NIU MGSU FOR THE PERIOD from August 28 to September 2, 2023 Route "Krasivyy" 2023

1. Climbing Report

1. General Information
1.1Leader's Full Name, Sports RankProstakishin Dmitriy Aleksandrovich
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Report on the first ascent of the route of category 6B complexity via the North-West wall of Ushba-Shana peak (4711 m) in 1990 by the team from the "Rodina" sports club under the auspices of the Kirov Regional Sports Committee.

up. 595 dated 13.11.90 2.4.445 N 34 RSFSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM 1990 6A and/or TECHNICAL CLIMB CLASS REPORT REPORT ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF USHBA SOUTH 4711 m VIA THE BASTIONS OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (FIRST ASCENT) BY THE TEAM FROM THE SPORTS CLUB "RODINA" OF THE KIROV REGIONAL SPORTS COMMITTEE TEAM LEADER ZHOLOBOV M.P. TEAM COACH MASHKOVTSEV V.I. Sports Club "RODINA": 610006, Kirov, ul. Lepsse, 4A, tel. 30310, 36592. Team Leader: ZHOLOBOV Mikhail Pavlovich, Kirov, ul. Surikova, 9, apt. 54, tel. 42303. Deputy Team Leader: SHABALIN Pavel Eduardovich, 610000, Kirov, ul. Nekrasova, 6A, apt. 36, tel. 41034. Team Coach: MAKOVTSEV Vladimir Ivanovich, Kirov, ul. Lenina, 63/12, apt. 3.

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Report on the ascent of Paton Peak (3930 m) in the Caucasus, made by a Ukrainian expedition in 2004, with a description of the route and photographs.

www.alpfederation.ru

  • 2A cat. difficulty route
  • 1B cat. difficulty route
  • 1B cat. difficulty route
  • base camp

Report

on ascents to peak 3930 (Paton's peak) in the Caucasus, made by participants of the Ukrainian scientific and sports expedition

  1. Organization Alpinism and Rock Climbing Federation of Ukraine
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