4.12.75

ON ASCENT TO PIK OKTYABR'SKOY REVOLYUTSII VIA SOUTH RIDGE FROM YAZGULEM-DARA GLACIER THROUGH PIK 6254 m. A COLLECTIVE OF ALPINISM INSTRUCTORS FROM THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. THE ASCENT IS DEDICATED TO THE 50th ANNIVERSARY OF THE ARMED FORCES OF THE USSR. 1968 Photo 2. Pioneering ridge of Pik Revolyutsii. (Taken from the overnight stop on descent from Pik 6254 m.) The objectives of our team's ascents in the 1968 season were Pik 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m) and Pik Revolyutsii (6974 m). These peaks had been visited by Soviet climbers several times before, but all ascents were made either from the Fedchenko Glacier or the Grumm-Grжимайло Glacier. Our team's task was complicated by the fact that the chosen routes to these peaks started from the south, a region that Soviet climbers rarely explored. Participants of the Armed Forces (AF) gathering began preparing for the expedition in the autumn of 1967.

23

Climbing passport. Climbing category — high-altitude technical. Climbing area — Central Pamir, Khavraz-Dara valley. Peak, its height, route — p. Yu. Manoylova 5870 m via NE wall. Proposed 5B category of difficulty, first ascent. Route characteristics:

• height difference — 1670 m
• length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 840 m
• average steepness of the main part — 70°
• wall length — 1025 m Pitons driven:
• Rock 82/6
• Bolt 0/0

Climbing Passport

I Climbing class: high-altitude technical II Climbing area: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge III Peak, its height and ascent route: Peak 6047 m, via the south-eastern ice slope with exit to the south-western ridge. IV Proposed difficulty category: 4B V Route characteristics: a) height difference 2047 b) average steepness: 43° c) section lengths: I⁺) 1150 m, II⁺) 50 m, III 650 m, IV 320 m, V 350 m

Ascent Record. I. Technical Category. 2. Central Pamir. 3. Peak Pasor (unnamed peak, 6047 m) via the north face. 4. First ascent, category 5B difficulty (approximately). 5. Route characteristics: The face on Peak Pasor. Length — 1405 m, including sections of category 5B — 330 m, 5A — 315 m, category 4 — 475 m, category 3 — 180 m, category 2 — 100 m. Average steepness — 65°, steepness of category 5 sections — 70°. Total route length — 1760 m. Total elevation gain — 1150 m. 6. Pitons used: * for belaying: * rock: 60 * ice: 7

4.12.38

Armed Forces of the USSR

Report

On the ascent of Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii 6974 m via the northwestern wall from the Fedchenko Glacier, 6th cat. cl., by the combined team of the Armed Forces of the USSR. Military-technical ascent. The ascent is dedicated to the 50th anniversary of the October Revolution. 1967 Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii is one of the highest peaks in our homeland.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:

Passport

1. High-altitude class.
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Yazgulyam-Dara valley.
3. Peak Revolyutsii, East summit (6930 m) via the South Ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 5A (estimated).
5. Height difference 1030 m, length — 2500 m. Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 30 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: rock 30/0 bolts 0/0

REPORT

of the Uzbekistan Sports Committee team on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the NNW wall in the high-altitude class program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1979 Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m, the sixth highest peak in the USSR, is located in the Central Pamir in the Yazgulem Range. The peak was first conquered on August 17, 1954, by a team led by A. Ugarov from the east. In the sixties, seven more routes were laid to the peak, one of which was along the left counterfort of the north wall, a kilometer-long sheer wall towering above the Fedchenko Glacier cirque. As early as 1968, photographs of this wall appeared in the team's archives, and we began to study them, examining the future object. In mid-July of this year, the team began transporting supplies to the area of operation. Equipment and provisions were dropped under the wall and at the Abdukagor Pass. The team was deployed, and a base camp was established on the Abdukagor Glacier at an altitude of about 3900 m. Upon distribution of the routes, our team was assigned the central part of the wall. A thorough study of the intended route was conducted, a clear, step-by-step tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up, and several descent options were developed, finalizing the team's composition. The wall is relatively rockfall-prone, and there are practically no places for overnight stays. To pass it mobilly, it was decided to go with one tent for five people. The team consisted of: Putintsev A.V. – captain Gromov L.V. – deputy captain

Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — High-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — East ridge of Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m
4. Ascent description: height difference 2895 m, average slope 40°, complex section length — 277 m
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none
6. Total climbing hours — 28 h 30 min
7. Number of bivouacs and their description — six: during ascent — on 4600 m № 1, on 5900 m № 2, on 6400 m № 3, on 6900 m № 4; during descent — on 6900 m № 4, on 5600 m № 5. All bivouacs were lying down and comfortable.