View of the peaks on the eastern side of Joljilga valley View from the east from the ridge of p. Tsvillinga www.alpfederation.ru Climb to sec. R1–R2 [^0]

58. Karatash via the Southwest Ridge The route is rock, category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 6, 62, 66, 67). Length — 900 m, ascent — 400 m, time — 4–5 hours. The path from the Kyrgyzata alpine camp (group of 4–12 people) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Joldzhilga glacier — see route 14. From the initial bivouac, cross the glacier and ascend the moraine to the Ruchyev Cirque. From here, go left and up along the buried glacier to the first wide talus couloir of the Southwest Ridge of Karatash peak. From the cirque, ascend an 80–100-meter ice and snow slope, then a 200–250-meter wide talus couloir that narrows at the top and becomes a damaged rock couloir (rockfall hazard) to reach the Southwest Ridge. Here, turn left and traverse 450–500 meters of easy, damaged rock on the Southwest Ridge, overcoming numerous short (3–5 m) walls and gendarmes head-on or bypassing them ("live" rocks, protection required), to approach the first pitch.

The trail initially goes along the right (orographically) side of the Suu-Chiktyn River. After 30 minutes, you need to descend down to the river, cross two branches of the Jav-Jjikga tributary fording. Then, continue along the trail on the right (orographically) bank of the Suu-Chiktyn River. The gorge gradually turns to the right and takes a south-north direction. At the bend of the river, it is necessary to ford it to the left (orographically) side and proceed towards the visible terminal moraine of the Suu-Chiktyn glacier. From the crossing point, the summit is visible. The path from the crossing point to the moraine takes 30-40 minutes. Advantages of crossing the terminal moraine:

LVO

The peak named after the Leningrad Military District (LVO) with a height of 4003 m was named by the army climbers of Leningrad in 1974. The rocky tower of the peak completes a short spur of the Southern ridge of the Karagoy peak in the Joljilga gorge. In the Joljilga gorge, LVO is flanked by steep walls and ridges, while the Ruchyev and East-Karagoy cirques have short, ruined rocky slopes, beneath which lie small, moraine-covered glaciers of the same name. The northern short ridge and southern walls await their first ascenders. 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge, category 3A (M. Levin et al., August 12, 1982). 63. LVO via the Northeast Wall, category 4A (A. Gaas, Yu. Gavrikov, S. Fedorov, O. Khudyakov, July 27-30, 1974; G. Sidorov, N. Andreev, V. Vidyakin, V. Nadein, August 10, 1977). 64. LVO via the Eastern Ridge, category 4B (G. Rozhalskaya, V. Kirillov, B. Kozlov, G. Semenyuta, August 7, 1977; A. Tarasenko et al., 1983). 62. LVO via the Southwest Ridge The route is combined, category 3A (fig. 5, 61, 62, 72). Length — 450 m, H — 200 m, time — 4–5 hours.

21. Legendarnaya Magnitka via the north slope of the Northeast Ridge.

6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

Brief Description of the Route Approach

The path from the base camp at the confluence of the Kurgan and Suichikty rivers follows the road down to the lower bridge. After crossing the bridge over the Kyrgyz-Ata river, follow the trail leading into the Beketty gorge. Continue along the trail that runs along the bottom of the gorge until a steep ascent to the moraine. Then proceed along the moraine to a scree slope, orienting towards the "finger" gendarme. It takes 3.5 hours to walk from the base camp to the start of the route. 4150 m (60th anniversary of the UASSR) via the E ridge. Category 3B difficulty, 700 m, 45°, 21 pitches, 12 hours. 6/XI-80. R. Galeev, S. Bochenkov, S. Suntsov, V. Teletsyn. Map of the ascent area Table of main characteristics of the ascent route

LOCATION

Peak P.Lumumba is located in the northern spur of the Alay Range (South Tian Shan or Pamir-Alay) in the upper reaches of the Gavmen (Galyuan) River. Its height is 4405 m. The attached diagram clearly defines its location.

APPROACHES

From the town of Haydarkan, located in the western part of the Frunze district of Osh region within the basin of the Sokh River, a small but powerful vehicle (e.g., GAZ-69) can drive up the Gavian (Golyuan) River valley for about 14 km. Further:

• The road turns into a trail.
• We ascend along the trail on the right or left orographic bank of the Gavman River to the moraine, where we set up the base camp. Around the campsite, there is a juniper forest on the slopes.

ASCENT ROUTE

on crampons, then along the gully itself with flow ice for the first thirty meters on the right side — cutting steps. In the upper part, the gully is blocked by a rock wall 6–8 m high. It is also covered with flow ice. Protection is by pitons. Ascent through crevices. After 3–4 m, transition to the boundary of rocks and ice. Above the wall there is a ledge, convenient for belay. Above the gully, the slope is 45–50° steep, covered with ice. It is safer to pass it on the left side to the rocky ridge and traverse to the right upwards, and then move from one rocky section to another. The exit to the ridge itself is blocked by another 12-meter rock wall. Overcome it along inclined shelves. The exit to the ridge takes 2–2.5 hours. Along the ridge, move in the direction of the summit to the southeast. After 100–150 m, easy