Report on the First Ascent

Peak Sever (2830 m?) North-West ridge, route 3A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Team Members:

• Ometov A.A.
• Putko K.V. 2013

Climbing Report

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai valley, 6.1.
2. Peak Sever (2830 m?), NW ridge.

Report on the First Ascent

On peak Sever 2826 m. Via the center of the North face. Tentatively 5B category of difficulty. Ulan-Ude, 2015

Climbing Passport

1. Eastern Sayan, Tunkin Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river gorge. Section number according to the classification table 6.1.2.
2. Sever 2826 m (peak coordinates: 51°55′24.54″ N 102°10′90″ E). Via the center of the North face.
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 5B. First ascent.
4. Route character — rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain: 400 m. Route length: 600 m. Length of sections:
   • V category of difficulty — 200 m

Ascent Report

As part of the Siberian Federal District Alpine Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class 2024

Peak Sever (2826 m) via the center of the S wall, route 5Б cat. diff., Tunkinskie Goltsy ridge, Barun-Khandagai river valley, 6.1.2 Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Panova A.M.
• Ivanovskiy A.V. Ascent completed on August 3, 2024.

I. Ascent Passport

| | 1. General Information | |

Route Description

via the south-eastern ridge of Mt. SOAN (2952 m) in winter. Ascent date: May 5–6. From the base camp (1800 m), located at the fork of the Zuun-Khandagai River on the forest border, the group needs to move up to the southern wall of Mt. SOAN to set up an assault camp. See the diagram. The path goes up along the left stream (orographically) past large high-altitude lakes. The lakes are separated by powerful ascents consisting of: – large stones, – boulders, – rocks. Movement is hampered by depressions between boulders filled with snow. The path across the lakes goes directly across the ice and packed snow. The ascents are steep, and one has to gradually gain altitude, reversing along the slope. The ascent to the first lake, which resembles a flattened animal skin, provides a 350 m elevation gain. The ascent from the first lake to the second rises by 250 m, and the seemingly small peak behind the lake is recommended to be bypassed on the left side in the direction of travel. From the second lake, there is a 100 m ascent consisting of rock fragments and a rocky slope.

SOAN Peak (2952 m)

The route along the South wall (approx. 5A cat. diff.) - SOAN peak (Siberian Branch of the Academy of Sciences) is located in a lateral spur of the Tunkin Range of the Eastern Sayan Mountains between the Zuun-Khandagai and Talta rivers. The most studied and interesting mountaineering routes to SOAN peak start from the Zuun-Khandagai valley. The Sayan rivers are frozen from November to mid-May. Ice fields and icings remain until mid-July, and snow persists in some valleys until August. Numerous high-altitude lakes are completely ice-free by the second half of July, are deep, and lifeless. There is no glaciation in the Sayan region. The most favorable months for ascent are:

• June,
• July,
• first half of August.

Approach

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Eastern Sayan, Tunkinskiye Belki ridge
3. Peak, its height — v. SOAN, 2952 m, ascent route — South wall
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference — 652 m
   • Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 515 m
   • Average steepness of main sections — 72°

Ascent passport to the summit of Tamara (Gadzhi) 3141 m, via the Eastern slope, cat. 2B

1. East Sayan, Tun­kin­skie Goltsy ridge, Gang Hai­rym val­ley, sec­tion 6.1.2. 2. Tamara (Gadzhi) peak, 3141 m, via the Eastern slope. 3. Proposed cat. 2B, third ascent. 4. The route is rock­i­fy. 5. Height dif­fer­ence 350 m, length 580 m, aver­age steep­ness 45°. 6. Pitons driven: rock and stop­pers 27 pcs. 7. Team's mov­ing hours — 10 h. 8. No over­night stays on the route.
2. First group: Stane­vich A. M. 2nd sports class P­lot­ni­kov N. K. 2nd sports class First ascent per­formed on 7 Au­gust 1973. Sec­ond group:

Ascent Report

To the summit of Trekhglavaya (2611 m) via the right buttress of the Eastern wall (first ascent), Eastern Sayan Range, November 2011

Irkutsk — 2011. Ascent Passport

Region — Eastern Sayans, Tunkinskie Goltsy, Kyngarga gorge. Summit — Trekhglavaya Severaya 2611 m. Route — Right buttress of the Eastern wall. Proposed category — 3A. First ascent Route character — rock. Route characteristics:

• elevation gain 661 m,
• route length about 1170 m,
• average slope 51°. Left on the route — pitons 0. Used pitons on the route: 23, including:

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan Mountains. Tunkin Goltsy;
2. Peak — Trekhg­laya Peak, North Peak via route: Right buttress of the North face
3. Height: 2560 m.
4. Category difficulty is expected, first ascent.
5. Route type — combined.
6. Height difference — 650 m. Route length — 900 m. Average slope — 50°
7. Number of placed cams (piton) — 20 (3).

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF PEAK 4900 VIA THE EAST RIDGE

SOUTH-WESTERN PAMIR

NORTHERN SHUGNAN RANGE a/l "VARZOB" Leader: KOSTRICHENKO V.V. Participants: VESELOV A.N. NICHIPORENKO A.N. TRONOV Y.N. BELINSKY S.F. SENTSOV S.K.