CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE USSR IN ALPINISM 1973

Class of high-altitude and technical ascents

PEAK TAJIKISTAN 6565 via the SOUTHEAST FACE The route was traversed by the team from LENINGRAD SPORTS COMMITTEE:

• Captain MS LOGACHEV Y.A.
• Senior coach MSMSK ZHITENEV F.N. Southwest Pamir
• 1973 Photo 2. Southeast face of Peak Tajikistan. Taken from Peak LGU.

Ii a c ii o p t

ascent made at the USSR Alpine Championship in 1973. I. Class of ascent — high-altitude-technical. 2. Area of ascent — North-West Pamir. 3. Route of ascent — Peak Tajikistan 6565 North-East wall. 4. Characteristics of ascent — height difference — 1250 m, average steepness of the wall — 83°, edges — 50°, length of difficult sections — 650 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 151, ice — 6, bolt — 1. 6. Number of climbing hours — 53.

Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik"

Management of the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station Construction

Class of Traverses 7-15

Traverse (6100)

PEAK TADZHIKISTAN – PEAK BEZYMYANNY – PEAK TTU – PEAK NIKOLADZE – PEAK ENGELS – PEAK 40 LET LKSMU With ascent to Peak Tadzhikistan via the central part of the north-eastern wall through "Kniga" (first ascent) (Team of the special squad of the Central Council of the Student Sports Society "Burvestnik" and the Nurek Hydroelectric Power Station of the Tajik SSR) Team captain – sports master V. Bozhukov Team coaches:

• Honored Master of Sports, Honored Coach of the USSR K. Kuzmin

For the USSR Championship in mountaineering.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Tajikistan via the North-East face (category of high-altitude and technical ascents). Team captain: Honored Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F. Team coach: Honored coach of the RSFSR, Master of Sports of the USSR Markov V.G. Senior coach of the gathering, deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S. Team composition:

• Captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Mal'tsev V.F.
• Deputy captain: Master of Sports of the USSR Solov'ev G.S.

DONETSK REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "AVANGARD" ALP CLUB "DONBASS"

REPORT

on the first ascent to the South Tajikistan peak (6300 m) via the right part of the eastern wall Donetsk, 1972

I стр.

§ 1. Geographical location and sports characteristics of the South peak of Tajikistan

The South peak of Tajikistan is located in a spur of the Shakhdarin ridge, south of the main peak of Tajikistan (6565 m). On the eastern side, the peak is bounded by the Dridzh Zapadny glacier, and on the west by the Rovini glacier.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — South-West Pamir, Shakhdara Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — TajGU peak, 6183 m, via the center of the Eastern wall
4. Assumed category of difficulty — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1240 m, length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1030 m, average steepness — 80°
6. Pitons hammered: | | for belay | for creating I.T.O. | | :----------- | :-------: | :-----------------: |

Passport

I. High-altitude technical category 2. South-Western Pamir 3. Peak “Tajik State University” via the central route on the right part of the E. wall (V.Smirnov's route) 4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, second ascent 5. Height difference: 1250 m, length — 1340 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1020 m. Average steepness — 73°. 6B category of difficulty — 380 m. 6. Pitons driven:

Passport

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak Tajikistan GU, center of the eastern wall of the main summit 6183 m
4. Proposed — 6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference — 1210 m, length — 1300 m
6. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1020 m including 6B category of difficulty — 440 m. Average steepness of the route — 72–73°
7. Pitons hammered:

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent Category

High-altitude and technical.

2. Ascent Region

Shakhdarin Range. South-West Pamir.

3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Elevations

Peak TadGU, 6183 m, via the East-South-East wall, 6B category of difficulty.

4. Ascent Characteristics

Elevation gain — approximately 1000 m, average steepness — 75°, length of complex section — 500 m.

5. Number of Pitons Driven

Passport

I. Altitude-Technical Class

2. Central Pamir, Peter the First Ridge
3. Peak Oshanina (6389 m) via the North face
4. Expected — 6th cat. diff., first ascent
5. Elevation gain: 2040 m, length ≈ 3000 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 1350 m, average steepness of the main part of the route 60° (4500–6300 m), including 6 cat. diff. 76° and 110° (≈ 5000 m), 80° (5200–5250 m), 80° (6230–6300 m) — total 190 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock screw anchors ice 113/IX 0/0 14/II 66/0
7. Climbing hours to the summit 59; days — 7