ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent area: Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route: Zapadny Dombay-Ulgen (4037 m) (5B category of difficulty) from the south via the green counterfort.
4. Ascent description: height difference 950 (to the ridge) + 100 = 1050 m. Average steepness 60°. Length of the complex section 350 m.
5. Number of pitons driven:
   • rock 102
   • ice —
   • bolt —

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Height difference:
   • wall section: 810 m
   • total route length: 1583 m
   • wall section length: 983 m

117. Bzhedukh via the left ice slope of the Northwest Wall (Yu. Naumov's route, category 3B). The path from the Shhelda alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak with a bivouac on the right-bank moraine of the Bzhedukh Glacier or a rocky outcrop under the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh is described in route 116. From the bivouac site, bypass the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of Bzhedukh Peak on the left along the glacier and exit onto a steep ice-and-snow slope descending from the massif to the Bzhedukh Glacier. Ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope, overcoming a bergschrund in the lower part, a 600-800-meter ascent (avalanches, piton protection!) along the left side of the Northwest Wall to a snowy rocky ridge located above the rocky drop of the Northwest Wall of the peak. From here, ascend traversing upwards - to the right (avalanches!), crossing numerous couloirs and ridges, to rocky outcrops of a relatively large, clearly pronounced ridge. Then, along a steep snowy ridge - slope, ascend to the North Ridge of Bzhedukh Peak. Here, turn right and ascend along a snowy slope and simple rocks to the summit of Bzhedukh. From the initial bivouac, 9-11 hours. Descent from the summit along the southeast ridge with a bivouac on the col (see route 120). The duration of the route is 3 days. Special equipment for 4 people:

• main rope — 2 × 40 m
• accessory cord — 2 m
• rock pitons — 4–5
• ice screws — 6–8

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — TECHNICAL 2. Ascent Region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS 3. Ascent Route — Ushba North (4694 m) VIA NORTH-EAST FACE through the "STOLB" (pillar) 4. Presumed Difficulty Category — 6th cat. diff. 5. Route Characteristics: ELEVATION GAIN

• 1150 m EXTENT OF SECTIONS I and II cat. diff.
• 620 m

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Dolomit Severny via the right part of the western wall, category 4A by the team led by Popov V.I.

I. Climbing Passport

Rock climbing Classification Commission Alpinism Federation of Russia

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (proposed 6A category), made by the team of Poltava Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist category II Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, Master of Sports

AADIP-CY-5ALUU 4370 m

3. Route Description

Route of ascent to the summit ALYR-SU-BASHI via the northwest ridge (4370 m) Route category 3B The summit ALYR-SU-BASHI is located in the northern Alyr spur of the Main Caucasian Range, between the Goudunov and Granovsky passes. Three ridges radiate from the summit:

• to the North
• to the Northwest
• to the South A counterforce extends eastward to the Bashdy glacier.

Passport

1. Technical class.
2. Central Caucasus, Shkhelda Valley
3. Shkhelda 3-western via the North face of the North-West ridge (Kensitskiy's variant)
4. 5B category of difficulty.
5. Height difference — 903 m. Length — 1152 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 52°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 72°.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: previously used – 4, new – 0
   • bolt: previously used – 22, new – 17

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.
2. Rock class.
3. Western Caucasus, from Marukh pass to Nakhar pass, section 2.2.
4. Peak Dombai-Ulgen Western (4036 m), via the bastion of the southern wall.
5. 6A category of difficulty, second ascent.
6. Route characteristics: height difference: 1036 m, length – 1450 m; length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty – 360 m; average steepness of the main part of the route: base of the wall — ridge (excluding talus) – 72° (3070–3950); start of the route (“claw”) — summit – 55° (3000–4036).
7. Pitons hammered (including in the denominator for IT): rock 70/27, ice 0/0, bolt 0/0, anchor 155/51