212. Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy via the North Ridge (Category 1B, L. Zanilov, D. Kuzminsky, August 30, 1962, Fig. 38). The path from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac under the terminal moraine in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, ascend the terraces and slopes on the left bank of the Sakashil River, gradually turning left and traversing the slope up to the left to reach the clearly visible saddle on the North Ridge of Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the bivouac, 1-1.5 hours. From the saddle, turn right and, bypassing a small gendarme on the left, reach the ridge. From here, ascend the wide, gentle ridge, then a rocky ascent to an inclined 15-meter slab with a crack in the upper part. After passing the slab, move up 4-5 meters on simple but steep rocks to the gentle part of the ridge. On the gentle ridge, reach the second 20-meter inclined slab, which is climbed directly. Further, on a rocky ascent, bypassing a protruding sheer angle on the left, on an inner corner and on a 30-meter crack, ascend to the gentle pre-summit ridge. On simple rocks of the ridge and a 4-5-meter ascent, climb to Peak Tyrnyauz komsomoltsy. From the initial bivouac, 4.5-5 hours. Descent is made via the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days.

в. ULLU-KARA, 4302 m, 3rd cat. diff., complicated category, N. Popov's route, '34 From the "Djantugan" base camp, follow a good trail along the right (orographically) lateral moraine of the Kashkatash glacier. After passing the overnight spot near the "Red Rocks", descend to the glacier and traverse its gently sloping middle section, sticking to its left (in traverse direction) side. At the beginning of summer, there are many hidden crevasses here. Approaching the upper icefall of Kashkatash (opposite the hanging glacier on the slope of Pik Germogenov), overcome its left (in traverse direction) side under the slope of Ullu-Kara. This section is hazardous due to possible rock and ice fall from the ridge wall above. By the end of summer, traversing the icefall becomes more difficult due to numerous crevasses. After reaching the snow plateau above the icefall, traverse it to the right and ascend a low-angle slope, sticking to its right (in traverse direction) side, to reach the Kashka-Tash pass. From Djantugan, it takes 5-7 hours; descent from the pass takes 2-4 hours. From the pass, ascend to the summit via a steep, not clearly defined ridge with fragile rocks. After passing two bivouac sites:

• the first one is 30 minutes walk from the pass,
• the second one is another 30 minutes further, start ascending the main ridge. The path goes along a rocky ridge to the right (in traverse direction) of a couloir, then along the left (in traverse direction) side of a wide snow slope to a small talus, from there - through a narrowing couloir and a chimney. The upper part of the ascent to the main ridge is the key section of the route and is done with rope protection.

Central Caucasus

ULLUKARA 4037 m via the northwest wall buttress. (Tentatively — 2B cat. difficulty.)

1. Temirov Anatoly Magometovich 1st class
2. Temirov Mukhamed Magometovich 1st class Bauman MSTU Sports Club.

Geographic Description of the Climbing Area

The ULLUKARA peak is located in the Main Caucasian Range, between the peaks of Bashkara to the east and Pik Volnaya Ispaniya to the west. This section of the Main Caucasian Range is in the Baksan Valley area. The Baksan Valley area is one of the most visited regions by climbers in the Caucasus. The alpine camps located in the area, good roads, and numerous beautiful peaks make this area attractive to climbers. Many climbing routes of varying difficulty have been laid out in this region. The most beautiful peaks of the Caucasus, such as Ushba, Shkhelda, Chatyn, Volnaya Ispaniya, and many others, are located in this part of the Central Caucasus. The Ullukara peak is situated in the upper Adylsu gorge. A good automobile road leads from Nalchik to the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp. From the "Djan-Tugan" alpine camp to the Kashkatash glacier plateau, a good trail is laid out. Further, the path goes along the Kashkatash glacier to the ascent to its upper plateau. The ULLUKARA peak is a huge rocky massif covered with a powerful ice cap. It rises with black walls above the Kashkatash glacier. To the northeast from Ullukara, a short northern spur extends with the peaks of Pik Germogenova and Chegetkara. Between the peaks of Ullukara and Pik Germogenova lies a glacier. The weather in this region is usually good, with short, rare periods of bad weather. Fogs are common, coming from the south through the Kashkatash pass.

ASCENT RECORD

1. Climbing category — ice and snow.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak Ullu-Kara, 4302 m, via the right part of the north-eastern wall, ice and snow route.
4. Proposed difficulty category 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1300 m, length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 170 m, average steepness 47°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 13, ice screws — 60, protection gear — not used.
7. Total climbing hours — 19.
8. Number and nature of bivouacs: one, lying down.
9. Full name of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:

I. Climbing Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus.
3. Peak — Ullu-Kara via the left part of the north-eastern wall (first ascent).
4. Difficulty category: 5B, approximate.
5. Route characteristics:
   • total length — 1545 m.
   • height difference — 1300 m.
   • average steepness — 47°.
   • length of sections with 5.6 difficulty category — 500 m

Passport

I. Rock class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Mt. Ullukara via the central pillar of the 3rd section of the wall 4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 672 m, route length: 1190 m Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 49°. 6. Pitons driven: * rock pitons — 76

Ascent Log

1. Category: technical
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
3. Peak: Ullukara (4302 m)
4. Route: via the center of the western face (S. Nagornyy's route), 5B cat. diff., 2.4.176(a)
5. Elevation gain: -682 m. Distance: -1170 m. Length of sections with VI cat. diff.: -80 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route (pillar): 50°

172а

KSP Elbrus region

Report

on the first ascent in the technical class of the KSP Elbrus region team led by Nagorny S.I. ROUTE: peak ULLU-KARA via the center of the Western wall.

Main route characteristics table

Ascent Record

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ

1. Ascent category: technically challenging
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Malaya Ushba via the western ridge 4320 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • altitude difference: 320 m

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.