Passport

I. Rock class 2. Central Caucasus 3. Mt. Ullukara via the central pillar of the 3rd section of the wall 4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent 5. Height difference: 672 m, route length: 1190 m

Length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 400 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 49°.

6. Pitons driven:

   • rock pitons — 76
   • chocks — 48

7. Team's travel time — 14.5 hours days — 2

8. Overnight stay: one. Snow platform (section R22).

9. Leader: Kharianyk I.V., Candidate Master of Sports

Team members:

• Timofeev V.N., Master of Sports
• Khitrikov V.A., Master of Sports
• Moroz S.A., Candidate Master of Sports
• Titkin E.G., Candidate Master of Sports
• Gurin N.I., Candidate Master of Sports

10. Coach: Kharianyk Ivan Vasil'evich.

11. Route start: July 9, 1984 Summit: July 10, 1984 Return: July 10, 1984

12. Organization:

• Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Voluntary Sports Society
• "Shkhelda" alpine camp

Taken on July 3, 1984, from the slopes of Mt. Vol'naya Ispaniya. Camera: "Smena".

Photo of the wall profile from the right (semi-profile). The horseshoe shape of the western wall prevents taking a proper profile photo. Camera: "Smena", F = 40 mm. A′ — camera location on the schematic map.

Photo of the wall profile from the left. Taken in April 1984. Camera: "Salyut", lens: "Tair-33", F = 300 mm. B — camera location on the schematic map.

Team's Tactical Actions

The group moved in three teams, with movement on a double rope. On sections up to category 4 difficulty, teams moved independently via the first team's pitons.

On sections with category 5-6 difficulty, double rope railing was set.

Emphasis was placed on maximum use of chock placements.

The first team member carried a backpack with only a down jacket and a sleeping mat throughout the route until the overnight stay. Twice, on category 6 sections, he left even this backpack.

Considering the pre-ascent reconnaissance, it was decided to complete the wall section of the route in one day, which was accomplished.

The lead climber was changed twice.

Route Schematic in Symbols

Travel time: 14.5 hours Chocks: 48 Rock pitons: 76 Mt. Ullukara, 4302 m

• R0–R1: 60 m, 40° 4.
• R2: 40 m, 45° 3.
• R3: 120 m, 70° 5.
• R4: 25 m, 15° 3.
• R5: 80 m, 30° 3.
• R6: 45 m, 65° 5.
• R7: 35 m, 50° 5.
• R8: 30 m, 40° 4.
• R9: 40 m, 45° 4.
• R10: 60 m, 70° 5.
• R11: 18 m, 15° 2.
• R12: 20 m, 70° 5.
• R13: 15 m, 20° 2.
• R14: 40 m, 85° 6.
• R15: 60 m, 15° 3.
• R16: 30 m, 75° 6.
• Section to the summit: 280 m, 10°.

Section R8. Beginning of the wall.