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Ascent route description to the summit of East Shalbuzdag (4060 m), the 2nd tower, via the 2B category of difficulty route with a detailed description of the path and photographs.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: rock climbing
  2. Ascent area: 2.96 mountains of Dagestan
  3. Peak: its height, ascent route, and character:
    • Shalbuzdag East (4060 m), 2nd tower from the south
  4. Proposed complexity category: 2B
  5. Route characteristics:
    • elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 45°, section lengths:
    • category I — 340 m, category II — 95 m, category III — 70 m, category IV — 10 m.
  6. Pitons hammered:
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Description of the route to the 4th tower of Shalbuzdag Mt. (4020 m) via D-W buttress, category 4, in Dagestan, climbed by a group of alpinists in 1989.

  1. Climbing category — rock climbing
  2. Climbing area — 2.10., Dagestan mountains, Chekhychay gorge.
  3. Peak, its height, climbing route, its character — Shalbuzdag East, 4th tower, 4020 m, via the SE buttress.
  4. Estimated category complexity — 3A
  5. Route description — Height difference 400 m, section length 10 m, average steepness — 45°.
  6. Pitons used — rock, ice, bolted 6/0, 0/0, 0/0; placed nuts 6/0
  7. Number of climbing hours — 4
  8. Number of nights — No overnight stay
  9. Leader's full name, participants and their qualification — Dorro Konstantin Eduardovich, 1st sports category; Mammaev Sulayban Nurmagomedovich, 2nd sports category; Krasnopolsky Yuri Vasilyevich, Candidate for Master of Sports
  10. Team coach —
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4150 m) via the Eastern couloir, category 1B difficulty, in the Eastern Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class
  2. Ascent area
  3. Peak, its height and ascent route
  4. Proposed difficulty category
  5. Route characteristics:
  6. Number of pitons hammered for belay: rock, ice, bolted
  7. Number of travel hours
  8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics
  9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants, their sports qualification
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Ascent to the summit of Shalbuzdag (4122 m) via the South-East Wall, category of difficulty 2B, description of the route, its characteristics and trip details.

  1. Climbing type: rock climbing
  2. Climbing area: #2.9 (Eastern Caucasus)
  3. Peak, its height, and climbing route: Shalbuzdag 4142 m via the southeast wall
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 2B
  5. Route description: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections with I difficulty category — 200 m, II category — 330 m, III category — 190 m, IV category — 20 m.
  6. Pitons hammered (for belaying): rock: 15 ice: 0 bolt: 0
  7. Number of walking hours: 8
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Description of the first ascent to the summit 4118 m in the Shahdag massif in the Eastern Caucasus via a combined route of category III complexity.

PASSPORT

I. Class: First Ascent. 2. SHAHDAG massif, Eastern Caucasus, from Sudur valley. 3. Peak 4118 m, in the western ridge of Shahdag massif, via the right part of the northern slope, combined. 4. Difficulty category — 3B. 5. Elevation gain 1050 m, length 2500 m, sections of 3rd diff. cat. — 450 m, 4th diff. cat. — 50 m, average steepness 25°, main part of the route — 45°. 6. Pitons — 43/0, ice screws, rock — 4/0. Wedges — 0. 7. Travel hours — 8 h. 8. No overnight stays. 9. Leader: Alexander M. Khvashchenko, Candidate Master of Sports.

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Ascent to the summit of Bazardyuzi (4466 m) from the south-western circus, category 2A complexity, description of the route and approach to the summit.

Passport

  1. Character of the route — ice and snow
  2. Eastern Caucasus, valley of the rivers Yatuxdere, Shakhnabad, Kusarchay
  3. Bazardyuzi from the Southwest Cirque
  4. Expected 2A cat. diff. – first ascent
  5. Elevation gain — 880 m, length — 2260 m Length of sections with 2nd cat. diff. — 1360 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 26°
  6. Climbing hours — 5 h
  7. Leader — Asadov Yakub Aliaga ogly
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Ascent to the summit of Bazayurt (4126 m) along the north-west ridge, category of complexity 1B, description of the route and passage.

Bazaryurt

via NW ridge by Baranov S. N. East Caucasus 2.11 PASSPORT

  1. Route type — combined
  2. East Caucasus, Yatukh-Dere, Shakhnabad, Kusar-Chay gorges
  3. Bazaryurt via North-West ridge
  4. Presumably 1B category of complexity — first ascent
  5. Height difference — 926 m, length — 2450 m
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Ascent to Bavaryurt peak (4126 m) via the 2nd buttress of the North-West face, grade 4A.

Bazaryurt, via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall Mamedov E.S. Eastern Caucasus 2.11.6

Passport

  1. Character of the route — combined
  2. Eastern Caucasus, YatukhDere, Shakhnabad, Kusarchay gorges
  3. Bazaryurt via the 2nd buttress of the NW wall
  4. Claimed category — 4A — first ascent
  5. Height difference — 865 m, length — 1600 m. Length of the sections of 4–5 cat. — 440 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 43°.
  6. Duration — 10 hours
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Description of the first ascent to the summit of Tfan (4191 m) along the southern ridge from Gotur pass, complexity category 1B, Eastern Caucasus.

2.11.11

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: first ascent.
  2. Area: East Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, south of Shahdag and Erydag peaks.
  3. Peak: Tfan, 4191 m, via the south ridge, combined.
  4. Proposed difficulty category: 1B.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain from Kutkashen town (1000 m) is 3200 m, from the base camp at Gotur pass (3150 m) is 1040 m, average slope is 20°, about 400 m at 35–45°, category 1B — about 300 m, category 2A — 80 m.
  6. Pitons driven: 2/0, 6 pieces required for a team.
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Report on the first ascent of the route through the SW couloir of Bashnya peak (2930 m) with a complexity category of 1B in April 2024.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT BASHNYA 2930 m VIA THE SW COULoir, CAT. DIFF. 1B by the GSK Upravlenie alpinistskikh lagerei team from April 26 to 26, 2024

I. Climbing Passport

1. General Information
1.1Full name, sports rank of the leaderChikin Artem Borisovich CMS
1.2Full name, sports rank of participantsGayunov Alexander unranked, Plyuta Dmitry unranked
1.3Coach's full nameYakovenko A.N.
1.4OrganizationGSK UAL
2. Characteristics of the Climbing Object
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