Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area — South-West Pamir
3. Summit of the route — peak Moskovskaya Pravda (6075), via the North-East wall (Solonnikov's route, partial)
4. Difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference of the wall 1129 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1040 m, average steepness of the wall section — 80°
6. Pitons driven:

ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Climbing category - technical - high-altitude.
2. Climbing area - SW Pamir, Shakhdarin range.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route - p. Gl. Moskovskoy pravdy, 6000 m, via North ice wall from E. icefall Gl.v.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B cat. diff.
5. Height difference (from base camp) - 1500 m.
6. Average steepness - 60°.
7. Total route length - 2000 m.
8. Length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. - 700 m.
9. Number of pitons driven - 84 ice screws.

FOR THE CHAMPIONSHIP OF THE CENTRAL COUNCIL OF THE ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY in the II category of high-altitude and technical ascents. P. MOSKOVSKAYA PR AVDA VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE 45 cat. tr. TEAM MOSCOW ZENIT VOLUNTARY SPORTS SOCIETY:

• SHATILOV V.N. — TEAM LEADER
• KRUTYKH A.V.
• KRAYUSHKIN D.A.
• SAFRONOV V.A. August 5–7, 1972 Technical characteristics of the route along the eastern ridge of Pik Pamyati Zhertv Tetnuldа (5746 m) in the southwestern Pamir, based on the results of the first ascent by a group of participants in the Donetsk Alpinade on July 6–8, 1967.

2019

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent class — high-altitude technical. II. Ascent area — Southwest Pamir range, Shakhdarin range. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Moscow Pravda (South) peak, 5739 m, right Northeast edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: * Height difference — 1200 m * Length of 5–6 sections — 910 m * Average steepness — 63° 6. Pitons driven:

![img-0.jpeg] ASCENT TO PEAK NIKOLADZE VIA THE NORTH-EASTERN COUNTERFORCE First ascent. Approximate category 5B difficulty The route was climbed by a combined team from the Bauman MSTU sports club. Team leader: Maksimov

South-Western Pamir, July 1971

![img-1.jpeg] — The group's route. ![img-2.jpeg] Peak Nikoladze as seen from Zingvand glacier. Team leader Maksimov. 1971 — ascent route.

Ascent Description

The best mountaineering achievements of 1962 in the category of high-altitude ascents. Peak Tajikistan Peak «6565» (PAMIR) FIRST ASCENT Sports team Leningrad Regional Council of the DSO "Burevestnik" Team captain: Savvon S.M., Master of Sports of the USSR Coach: Gromov A.G., Master of Sports of the USSR

Pik Tajikistan is located on the Southwestern Pamir in the Southeastern spur of the Shahdara Range, adjacent to Peak K. Marx (see diagram). This area was explored later than other regions of the Pamir. The first mountaineering expedition was organized in 1946 by the All-Union Committee for Physical Education and Sports. The head of the expedition's assault group, Honored Master of Sports E.M. ABALAKOV, compiled an alpinist-geographical description of this most interesting region. In recent years, the Shahdara Range has become very popular, with a number of mountaineering expeditions visiting it. Now, this area is well explored. Without going into detail about the description, as it has been done quite thoroughly by previous expeditions, we can note only the main characteristic features of the area. Here, there are very convenient and close approaches from the access roads (highways), good stable weather, and low air humidity. Almost all ridges and crests end in gorges with powerful walls. The idea of ascending Pik Tajikistan from the east arose in 1964 during the ascent of Peak Moskovskaya Pravda. From this peak, Pik Tajikistan had a very majestic and grandiose appearance. In the Zughvand gorge, the peak ended in a giant wall. Additional information about the object of ascent was obtained from Spartakovites K. KLETSKO and G. AGRANOVSKY, who observed this peak in 1964 from the slopes of Peak Engels and confirmed that

BRIEF INFORMATION ABOUT THE AREA AND OBJECT OF ASCENT

the eastern wall of Pik Tajikistan has a very large steepness and length.

Dedicated to the 50th anniversary of Soviet mountaineering.

XXIV USSR Mountaineering Championship

Peak Tajikistan via the East Face. Southwestern Pamir

High-Altitude Technical Climbing Category

(Report by the team from the Dnipropetrovsk Regional Committee for Physical Culture and Sports)

• 1. Shabokhin V. A.
• 2. Samoilenko V. Ch.
• 3. Kozak L. R.
• 4. Orlov O. L. Team leader: Kakhiani

NW Wall of Peak Kalinina 6565 m

Geographic Description and Sporting Characteristics of Peak Kalinina

Description of Climbing Conditions

Peak Kalinina (6565 m) is located in the Academy of Sciences Range, Central Pamir. Along with Peaks Chetyrekh and Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Kalinina encloses the AYu-Dzhilga valley with a huge rocky-ice cirque. To the southeast, the massif of Peak Kalinina is quite dissected and is connected by gentle ridges to Peak Zhukova and an unnamed peak 6431 m. To the northwest, into the AYu-Dzhilga valley, Peak Kalinina drops with a two-kilometer rocky-ice wall. The first ascent to Peak Kalinina was made in 1972 by a group led by K. Kuzmin from the south, from the Odinnadtsati glacier. In 1974, a group led by V. Bozhukov, while traversing Peaks Kalinina and Kommunizma, ascended Peak Kalinina via the southeastern ridge, which runs from Peak Zhukova. Unlike other surrounding mountain regions, the AYu-Dzhilga valley is a relatively infrequently visited area of the Central Pamir. The beginning of mountaineering exploration in the area was made in 1966 by an expedition from Leningrad's "Spartak" led by Budanov. The Leningraders made ascents to Peak Akhmadi-Donish, Peak Chetyrekh, and Peak Yakira from the AYu-Dzhilga valley. Until the 1975 season, this was the only expedition to the valley.