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ASCENT TO PEAK NIKOLADZE VIA THE NORTH-EASTERN COUNTERFORCE

First ascent. Approximate category 5B difficulty

The route was climbed by a combined team from the Bauman MSTU sports club. Team leader: Maksimov

South-Western Pamir, July 1971

![img-1.jpeg] — The group's route.

![img-2.jpeg] Peak Nikoladze as seen from Zingvand glacier. Team leader Maksimov. 1971 — ascent route.

Ascent Description

July 14, 1971. The group of seven departed from the base camp at 16:00 and stopped for the night at the 4800 camp.

July 15. At 6:00, the group, having had a hearty breakfast, set out from the overnight camp towards the 5200 m pass. At the exit to the Kishty-Dzherob glacier, we met a group led by N. Leonova, who had just ascended Peak 5491 and were returning to the base camp.

One of our group members, Volodya Shpolyansky, fell ill. He removed all the shared gear from his backpack, which we distributed among our own, and headed back to the base camp with N. Leonova's group.

We continued moving along the glacier and reached the 5200 m pass by 12:00. We took a break for lunch until 14:00 and conducted another check of our gear.

We were now six, and we decided to leave behind: – one of the two stoves; – some of the provisions.

We had about 3 kg worth of items, but our backpacks were still heavy. The main weight came from the two "Pamirka" tents, which now had to be carried by six people, and, of course, the climbing gear.

After lunch, we descended from the 5200 m pass and moved towards the saddle between Peak K. Marx and Peak Engels.

Without reaching the highest point of the saddle, we stopped for the night at 18:00. We prepared a flat area on the snow for two tents and gladly climbed into them as it was already windy and cold outside.

July 16. Today, Valera Kochetov was on duty. He got up at 6:00 and tried to light the "Febus" stove. However, it stubbornly refused to ignite. Volodya came to Valera's aid and began disassembling the "Febus" piece by piece.

It was very cold outside, and no one wanted to leave the tent without a hot cup of tea. We nostalgically remembered our brand-new "Shmel" stove, which we had left at the pass, opting for the "Febus" instead. Eventually, the stove ignited, and Volodya promised that it would burn well in his hands.

At 10:00, we left the overnight camp and moved towards the slopes of Peak K. Marx. We ascended the slope together. The snow was good, but there were many hidden crevasses, so we had to proceed carefully, tied together. We climbed up to the level of the bergschrund on the slope of Peak Nikoladze and turned towards its north-eastern counterforce.

We easily passed the first bergschrund and, traversing left and upwards, approached the second bergschrund by 14:00. It was very hot walking in the sun on the snow, but in the shade of the crevasse, we lit the stove to eat and rest.

The Maksimov-Sokolov team attempted to find a passage through the bergschrund. The simplest passage was through a jumble of enormous blocks of firn and ice that seemed to be held together by nothing and were ready to collapse at any moment.

We decided to exit the bergschrund via a 7-meter slightly overhanging firn wall. Within an hour, with the help of ice axes and ice hooks, Sokolov climbed the wall and secured a rope on the slope. Using the fixed rope and ladders, the rest of the group followed (Section R1–R2).

After the bergschrund, the Puchkov-Pelekh team took the lead. The movement continued along a firn slope with a gradient of about 45°, which gradually turned into ice. The insurance became hook-based. Another two ropes up the ice, followed by a traverse to the left — 1 rope to the counterforce rocks. Section R2–R3 was completed.

Then, a rope up the rocks of moderate difficulty, with a gradient of 60°, and hook insurance (Section R3–R4), and we reached a platform where, after an hour's work, we could set up one tent properly. It was already dark. Having secured the tent to hooks, five of us climbed inside. Sokolov, refusing to be the sixth, used the second tent to set up a great overnight spot next to our tent. Altitude: 5700 m.

July 17. At 8:00, the Maksimov-Sokolov team was the first to leave the overnight camp. Immediately from the camp, 10 meters to the right and upwards, and then along the counterforce with a gradient of 60° — (Section R4–R5) — rocks of moderate difficulty — another rope. Here, at the base of a small snow patch on the rocks, was the 1st control point.

Further movement went (Section R5–R6) along a vertical inner corner, 15 meters. The climbing was complex. An overhanging plug was bypassed on the right. Then, 20 meters along simple rocks to a vertical slit. Ascending the vertical slit (Section R6–R7), 10 meters, and bypassing the plug on the right. Complex climbing. Then, a rope (Section R7–R8) along rocks of moderate difficulty to a small snow patch. At the end of Section R7–R8, along the edge of the snow patch, 15 meters — average gradient 60° — exit to a small shoulder.

From the shoulder, along a vertical inner corner, 15 meters upwards to an overhanging cornice (Section R8–R9) — and then to the right along a ledge, 5 meters. Very complex. Up the rock wall, 15 meters, and again a traverse to the left, 10 meters, to exit onto rocks of moderate difficulty (end of Section R8–R9). Throughout Section R8–R9, the climbing was complex.

Section R9–R10 consisted of rocks of moderate difficulty in the upper part, smooth but with good holds.

Then, the ascent continued along a slope of about 70° (Section R10–R11), along rocks of moderate difficulty — two ropes. Higher, the slope became steeper — up to 80°, about one rope. Short vertical walls, 5–7 meters, were encountered. Then, an almost horizontal ridge, 20 meters long, led to a shoulder. To the left of the shoulder, a great platform for an overnight stay was visible. After an hour's work, we set up two tents on this platform at 19:00, securing them firmly with rock hooks.

Throughout the day, the insurance was hook-based. Depending on the complexity of the section, between 3 to 8 hooks were used per rope.

The Kochetov-Loktionov team had a significant workload that day, extracting all the hooks placed by the first team.

By evening, it was cold again, with strong winds. The team members who had climbed without sleeping bags wore all their clothing, but it was still cold.

Altitude: approximately 6100 m.

July 18. We didn't hurry to get up in the morning, waiting for the sun to warm up a bit. The Pelekhov-Puchkov team was the first to move out today. On the rocky shoulder, we left the second control point and began moving further at 9:00.

From the overnight camp, an almost horizontal snow ridge, about 100 meters (Section R11–R12), led to rust-colored rocks (Section R12–R13) with a gradient of 60°. This section turned out to be challenging due to the rock structure. The ridge was composed of rock that crumbled at the slightest touch. This complex and dangerous section, about 20 meters, was first climbed by Zhenya.

Section R13–R14 represented simple rocks, with a gradient of 50°, over two ropes. Here, at 12:00, we last made radio contact with the observer group on the 5200 m pass, informing them of our location and final descent plan. After reaching the summit, we lost contact with the camp due to the intervening peak.

Section R14–R15 — difficult rocks, 20 meters, with a gradient of 80%. Complex climbing with hook insurance.

Further ascent went along a snowy slope with a gradient of 45° (Section R15–R16), with insurance via hooks on rocky outcrops, which turned into an icy slope leading to an icy ridge.

The icy ridge (with small cornices), about 200 meters long — Section R16–R17 — led to the summit. Insurance was ridge-based and, in places, via ice hooks.

We reached the summit at 15:00 and spent about an hour there, admiring the panoramic view from above. We began our descent along the ridge, then, making one sports pitch on the ice, we reached a gentle slope and quickly descended to the Nishgar glacier. At 19:00, we stopped for the night on the Nishgar glacier moraine.

July 19. We woke up late. There was no need to hurry now. We boiled plenty of tea. We left the overnight camp only at 13:00. The descent through the unfamiliar gorge was a great pleasure.

At 21:00, we reached the road. Fifteen minutes later, a passing car appeared, which took us to the Isor village. The ascent was over.

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Section R12–R13.

Table of Main Route Characteristics

The route's height difference is 1050 m. The ascent route to Peak Nikoladze (6350 m) via the north-eastern counterforce. The average steepness of the rocky part is 62°.

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Section R16–R17.