PASSPORT

1. Class: high-altitude technical. 2. South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range, Vahan Range, Chondzhirav valley. 3. Peak 5879 m via South Ridge from 5650 m col. 4. Proposed 2B category; first ascent. 5. Height difference: 780 m; length 2400 m, average steepness of main sections 35°.
2. Pitons used: ice screws — 6. 7. Team's travel time: 5.5 hours (1 day). 8. Leader: PLYASKUS Jonas Stasevich. Team members: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich — Candidate Master of Sports, KRIPAITITE Ruta Povilonas — 2nd sports category, GRIGAS Zenonas Zenonovich — 2nd sports category, MACHERNIS Vidmantas Pyatrovich — 3rd sports category.
3. Coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich.
4. Route approach on August 6, 1984. Photo #1. Peak 5879 m (KPI) — general view. Photographed from Chondzhirav glacier, August 17, 1984. Distance 3 km. "Helios-44M" lens.

Brief Overview of the Area

Peaks Vrangs (5350 m), Darius and Girenas (5998 m), Litvanika (6004 m), KPI (5879 m), and Academician Barshauskas (5649 m) are located in the South-West Pamir, in the eastern part of the latitudinal section of the Shahdara Range, specifically in the Vahan Range.

PASSPORT

1. Class — high-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, Shakhdarin Range
3. Peak named after S. Darius and S. Girėnas (5998.3 m) via the northern ridge
4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, combined, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 1198 m, length — 2310 m Length of sections 6 — 28 m, 4–5 — 400 m. Average steepness of main sections 70°.
6. Pitons driven | rock | placements | ice | | :--: | :-------: | :---: |

Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge

I. Category: High-altitude technical 2. South-West Pamir, Chondzhirav valley 3. Peak 6004 (Lituanika) via the Southeast Ridge 4. Proposed — 4A category of difficulty; combined, first ascent 5. Elevation gain: 650 m, length 1400 m Length of sections with 4–5 category of difficulty — 160 m. Average steepness of sections — 70° 6. Pitons driven: Rock – 10, chocks – 4.

1984 Lithuanian Sports Committee Climbing Gathering

Report

on the first ascent to the peak 6004 m "Lituanica" via the northern ridge from Chondzhiraf glacier by the "Polytechnika" team from Kaunas 400, 650, 21 cu, 22 mg, 10 hours. Congratulations to the winners! TEAM LEADER: Bronius Varsackis. TEAM COACH: Algis Gudyalis. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Zemaite St., 6, phone 63-53-53 Bronius Varsackis — 233005, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kapsu St., 101-1, phone 22-57-91 Algis Gudyalis — 233021, Lith. SSR, Kaunas, Kaniu St., 4-17, phone 26-45-91, work phone 75-35-11

USSR Climbing Championship

1983

High-altitude technical ascents class

Report

on the ascent to peak "6100" via the northeast wall by the team of the Georgian Sports Committee FIRST ASCENT Team leader: Gheldiashvili I.A. Deputy team leader: Tarkhnishvili D.I. 380012, Tbilisi, Bakinskaya St., 10, tel. 95-08-55 Team coach: Giuashvili R.I.

Sports Club of the Army of the Leningrad Military District

Peak "Armeitsev" (5398 m) via the Southwest Ridge (first ascent)

The route was completed by the team of the Armed Forces of the Leningrad Military District on August 7-8, 1977. 1978 I. General view of the peak 5398 m, Armeitsev Map of the Yazgulem-dara area

Approach to the summit

The peak Armeitsev (5398 m) is located in a lateral spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, which has a northeast-southwest orientation over a short distance. The spur, where the peak is situated, has an eastern and southeastern orientation. This spur starts from the peak 5700 m, borders the upper arm of the Yazgulem-dara glacier from the south. At the slopes of this spur, the Yazgulem-dara glacier makes a sharp turn to the south and flows along the eastern slopes of peak Armeitsev. On the other side of peak Armeitsev lies a large cirque, bordered from the west by the crest of the Yazgulem Ridge, and from the east by a spur of the Yazgulem Ridge, branching off near the Lower Khurdzhin pass.

MOSCOW REGIONAL COUNCIL Sports Society "Zenit" Protocol No. 322 dated November 24, 1970 4A — first ascent Peak 5398 "Army Men". via the Southwest wall (Central Pamir) 1970 Peak 5398 (view from camp "3700")

Peak BOLGARIA (5666 m) via peak 5600 along the Western Ridge (Central Pamir) Area Map

Geographical Location

The gathering place for the climbers of MOS DSO "Zenit" in 1970 was the area of Peak Revolyutsii in the Central Pamir, with the base camp located in the upper reaches of the Yazgulem-Dara valley. The summit — Peak Bolgariya — was the target of the ascent. It belongs to the mountain chain stretching south from the highest peak in the area — Peak Revolyutsii (6974 m). On the opposite, western, side of the valley, the peaks of the Yazgulemsky Ridge stretch from north to south, most of which exceed 5000 m in height. The area is dominated by six-thousander peaks located in the northern part of the valley:

APPENDIX №2 Description of the first ascent route to Peak Vasiliev D. (G. Yazovskikh, 1967) Pamir. Upper reaches of the Fedchenko Glacier. Description of the first ascent to Peak D. E. Vasiliev (6100 m). 4A category of difficulty via a combined route from the south. The first ascent was made by a group from the expedition of the Chelyabinsk Regional Council of the "Trud" Sports Society on August 19, 1967. Leader: G. Yazovskikh. The description was compiled by:

• G. Yazovskikh
• B. K. Potapkin
• K. P. Veselov Chelyabinsk Regional Alpine Federation. 1967.

Contents

1. Introduction.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. v. Winnie-the-Pooh (peak 5250 m) via the center of the western wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1250 m length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 130 m average steepness — 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock (including chocks) — 62