COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF THE USSR Dedicated to the XXV Congress of the CPSU.

Ascent Report

On the ascent of the North peak of Ushba, 4695 m, via the North-East face; Central Caucasus; technically complex ascent category. COMPOSITION OF THE ASCENT GROUP:

1. MONOGAROV V.D., Master of Sport, "AVANGARD"
2. LAVRINENKO D.N., Master of Sport, "—"
3. VOLYNSKY V.A., Master of Sport, "—"
4. BERESNEV V.P., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"
5. KLATAEVSKY V.I., Candidate for Master of Sport, "—"

1. Category of ice and snow ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via NW wall.
4. Proposed route: 5B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1600 m, length — 2300 m. Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness: main sections — 58° (3800–4650 m), entire route — 49°.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 46, chocks — 18, ice screws — 49, snow anchors — 25.
7. Team's climbing hours: 25 days : 2
8. Overnight stops: 1st and 2nd bivouacs were dug out on a snow-ice slope.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — winter
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus
3. Peak — Ushba N. 4694 m, via the Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty — 6A
5. Height difference — 1017 m, length — 1700 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1020 m, length of sections with 6th category of difficulty — 70 m, average steepness of the wall section of the route — 47°
6. Pitons driven: rock, chocks, ice screws, bolt pitons | 5 | 3 | 83 | 0 | | :-: | :-: | :--: | :-: | | 0 | 0 | 0 | 0 |

Passport

I. Category — technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba North via N.W. wall (4694 m) Kolomyttsev V.G. route 4. 5B cat. diff. — 2nd ascent of the "Silver" route in 1982 5. Height difference: 1700 m, length 2400 m. Length of 5 cat. diff. sections — 1240 m. Average steepness of main sections: 55° (3750–4660 m) of the route 47° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26 закладок — 21

Ascent Passport

I. Winter ascent category 2. Central Caucasus 3. North Ushba, via the Northwest wall 4. Route 6A category of difficulty (route 181) 5. Elevation gain 1600 m, length — 2300 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1320 m. Average steepness of main sections — 58° (3800–4650), route: 49° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 26, chocks — 6, ice screws — 85 7. Team's travel time: 23 hours and days — 3

Passport

1. Class of winter ascents.
2. Central Caucasus.
3. North Ushba via northwest wall (Kolomyttsev V.G. route)
4. 6A difficulty category.
5. Height difference — 1600 m. Length 2300 m. Length of sections:

• 5–6 cat. diff. — 1320 m
• 6 cat. diff. — 840 m

Ascent Certificate

1. Class: winter
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Prielbrusye
3. Ushba North via Northwest wall
4. Category of difficulty: 6A
5. Route characteristics:
6. Elevation gain: 1700 m (by altimeter)
7. Route length: 2550 m
   • Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 1370 m
   • Average steepness: main part of the route — 56°, entire route (from bivouacs) — 48°

ASCENT TO NORTH USHBA VIA THE EASTERN WALL /"MIRROR"/ FROM CHALAAT GLACIER /Climbing Report/ Kiev — 1968 Ascent route via the "mirror" of the Eastern wall of N. Ushba.

1. Introduction

1. Brief Characteristics of the Ushba Massif

Ushba is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Ridge, branching off from it near Shchurovsky Peak. The Ushba massif features two sharp peaks separated by a shallow saddle. The north-eastern peak has an absolute height of 4695 m. A sharply descending and short ridge with a small peak, Gulba, extends from it.

I. Class – technical 2. Central Caucasus 3. Peak — Ushba Northern via left part of NE wall, 4694 m, route by Grishchenko V. I. 4. 5B cat. diff. 2nd ascent of route I-98-I year 5. Height difference: 1495 m, length — 2050 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. diff. — 1000 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 75° (3995-4035, 40-I-5–4-I-75, 42-I-O–44-I-O), including 440 m of 6 cat. diff. 6. Pitons hammered:

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: