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Report on the ascent made by the Sever sports club team from Severodvinsk to Peak Pobeda via the north-eastern spur.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical.
  2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek.
  3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via the northeastern counterfort.
  4. Complexity category: proposed — 6A category, 2nd ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference: 2989 m (by altimeter); distance: ascent — 3650 m; descent — 4160 m. Distance of sections with 5th category complexity — 580 m; 6th category complexity — 350 m.
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Ascent to Peak Pobeda via Vaja Pshavela, grade 5B, altitude difference 3039 m, duration 5 days.

Arkhangelsk region, Severodvinsk Sports club "Sever"

Ascent Passport.

  1. Ascent classification: high-altitude ascents to peaks above 6990 m,
  2. Ascent area: Central Tien Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
  3. Ascent route: Peak Pobeda Main, via Vazha Pshavela
  4. Complexity category: 5B category.
  5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 3039 m (by altimeter);
  6. Pitons used:
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The traverse of the SAVO - Vazha Pshavela peaks in the Central Tian Shan, expedition of the "Burevestnik" team in 1972.

Report

Peaks SAVO (6088)—Vazha Pshavela (6918) Central Tien Shan

Expedition of CS and MGS SDSO "Burevestnik"

Glukhov V.V.—captain, MSMS
Bobrov V.I.—coach, CMS
Zasetsky V.G.—participant, CMS
Petruk V.P.—participant, CMS
Soustin B.P.—participant, MS

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Report on the ascent of the "Vertical" Alpine Club team to Khan-Tengri peak via the Southwest Ridge in 1990, category 5B difficulty level.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude class.
  2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek glacier.
  3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the South-Southwest ridge.
  4. 5B category of difficulty, previous ascent was over 3 years ago.
  5. Elevation gain — 2610 m, route length — 2840 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 2010 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 47°, including 45 m of 6 category of difficulty with 70° steepness.
  6. Hooks left on the route (not removed) — none. Previously driven hooks used and not removed — none.
  7. Team's climbing hours: 40 and days – 6.
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Report on the ascent of the FAS of Ukraine team to the summit of Khan-Tengri via the South-West slope and the left side of the South-West edge in 2009.

World Climbing Championship

2012 High-altitude class

Report

on the ascent to Khan-Tengri peak, 6995 m via the southwestern slope and the left side of the southwestern edge, 5B category of difficulty (variant of the route by E. Kondakov, 1982) by the team from FAiS Ukraine (Ukraine-1), from August 10 to 18, 2009 Team coach: Mityukhin F. P. Team captain: Venslavovsky D. A.

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First ascent via the South Wall of Khan Tengri peak (Tian Shan) cat. 5B, 2700 m height difference, 4750 m length.

PASSPORT

  1. Altitude-technical class
  2. Tian-Shan
  3. Peak Khan-Tengri (6995 m), via the South face
  4. Proposed - 5B category of complexity, first ascent
  5. Height difference – 2700 m, length – 4750 m Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity – 2680 m. Average steepness of the most difficult sections is 50° (4700 m–6700 m).
  6. Pitons hammered: ice – 138, rock – 57, bolted – 2.
  7. Team's travel time: 88 hours and days – 10
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Description of the ascent made by the CSKA MO RK team to Peak Khan-Tengri via the Myslovsky Route, rated as category 6B.

  1. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, S. Inylchek glacier, section 7.9 of the classifier
  2. Peak Khan-Tengri (7010 m), from the S. Inylchek glacier along the center and couloir of the Northern wall, Mylovsky's route
  3. Submitted — 6B cat. diff.
  4. The nature changed
  5. The route height difference — 2810 m Route length — 4316 m Length of sections:
    • V cat. diff. — 81 m
    • VI cat. diff. — 5 m Average steepness:
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Ascent to Khan-Tengri peak via the northwest wall, a description of the route and tactical actions of the team in challenging weather conditions.

PASSPORT

  1. High-altitude technical climb category.
  2. Central Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tağ range, South Inylchek glacier.
  3. Khan-Tengri peak (6995 m) via the southwest wall.
  4. Proposed route: 6th category of difficulty, first ascent.
  5. Height difference: 2660 m; route length — 3448 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 1134 m. Average steepness of main sections 62° (4336–6130), including 95 m of 6th category at 87°.
  6. Pitons used: | Rock pitons | Bolts | Nuts | Ice screws | | :--------- | :---- | :---- | :--------- |
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An account of the ice ascent to Sugul-Beshi West peak in the Central Tian Shan by the "Profsport-P" team in 1988.

Ascent Passport

  1. Ascent class — ice and snow
  2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Terskey-Alatau ridge
  3. Oguz-Bashi 2nd Western (5000 m) via N wall
  4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B. V. Leontiev's route (1984)
  5. Height difference — 665 m
  6. Distance — 880 m Distance of sections with 5-6 difficulty category — 880 m. Average steepness — 50°.
  7. Pitons hammered in: | rock | bolt | chocks | ice |
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Report on the ascent made by the Rostov region team to the summit of Jailik via the 5B category route on the 3rd wall of the South shoulder of the South ridge.

North Caucasus and Southern Federal Districts Climbing Championship

high-altitude technical class

REPORT

On the ascent of Jailyk peak via the 3rd wall of the S. shoulder of the S. ridge (D. Laskavy's route) 5B category of complexity by the team from Rostov Region for the period from July 24–25, 2024.

I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION

1. General Information
1.1Full Name, sports rank of the leaderVasilyev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports
1.2Full Name, sports rank of participantsVasilyeva Irina Vitalyevna, Candidate Master of Sports
1.3Full Name of coachVasilyev Andrey Sergeevich, Master of Sports
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