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Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT 5616 m (ŠIAULIAI) VIA THE SOUTH RIDGE BY THE TEAM OF THE SPORTS COMMITTEE OF THE LITHUANIAN SSR Leader: BLOŠKIS A.R. Coach: NAVICKAS S.I. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports of the Lithuanian SSR under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, Vilnius, Žemaitės 6,

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Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on Category 2B Climb

On the first ascent to peak 5879 m (KPI) via the Western Counterfort by the team from the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR (South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vakhan Range, Chondzhirav gorge). Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Team Coach: GUDIALIS A.V. A. Bloshkis O. Usikas 780, 2200, 30°, 6 m, 5 hours traverse. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, VILNIUS, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53

PASSPORT

1. Class: high-altitude technical. 2. South-West Pamir, Shahdara Range, Vahan Range, Chondzhirav valley. 3. Peak 5879 m via South Ridge from 5650 m col. 4. Proposed 2B category; first ascent. 5. Height difference: 780 m; length 2400 m, average steepness of main sections 35°.
2. Pitons used: ice screws — 6. 7. Team's travel time: 5.5 hours (1 day). 8. Leader: PLYASKUS Jonas Stasevich. Team members: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich — Candidate Master of Sports, KRIPAITITE Ruta Povilonas — 2nd sports category, GRIGAS Zenonas Zenonovich — 2nd sports category, MACHERNIS Vidmantas Pyatrovich — 3rd sports category.
3. Coach: GUDYALIS Algis Vitautovich.
4. Route approach on August 6, 1984. Photo #1. Peak 5879 m (KPI) — general view. Photographed from Chondzhirav glacier, August 17, 1984. Distance 3 km. "Helios-44M" lens.

Brief Overview of the Area

Peaks Vrangs (5350 m), Darius and Girenas (5998 m), Litvanika (6004 m), KPI (5879 m), and Academician Barshauskas (5649 m) are located in the South-West Pamir, in the eastern part of the latitudinal section of the Shahdara Range, specifically in the Vahan Range.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the right part of the southeast wall, from the Khabarvin-khach glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: about 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 700 m, average steepness: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — rock 12, ice 34, bolted —; for support — rock —, ice 7, bolted —.
7. Number of climbing hours: 44 hours
8. Number of bivouacs, their characteristics: 4 bivouacs on the route, all on snow and ice.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Leader V. Vasilenko +3, 1978 From the base camp located at the 58th km of the Khorog - Osh highway, we approach the Gaf Glacier along the left (orographically) side of the Nemacdar River. We ascend to the Gaf Pass via its left part. The approach time is 5–6 hours from the base camp. The entire approach path is clearly visible from the 59th km of the Khorog - Osh highway. General view of the peak 5204 m from the East. — route along the S ridge from Gaf Pass (leader V. Vasilenko) — route along the E face (leader I. Orbei) — route along the center of the E face (leader Kh. Kornys). Peak Gif Beginning of the S ridge

Map of the area worked by the 4C 6CO, A6a (3) 3 group, with the designation of ascent routes in 1978, June 28 — August 10. Base camp "Fann Mountains"

TABLE OF MAIN CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT ROUTE

Report

On the first ascent of Peak 4971 via the central counterfort of the eastern ridge, category 5A

South-West Pamir, Northern Shugnanskiy ridge, a/l "Varzob"

Veselov A. N. Kostrichenko V. V. 1978

Map of the ascent area

Conventions:

• Osh-Khorog highway

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic on the border with Mongolia in the Bolshoy Sayan range, in the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut gorges. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m), the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is approximately 300 km west of Irkutsk. From Irkutsk to the Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. From Mondy, a 25 km gravel road leads to the Oka region of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge over the Bely Irkut River. Beyond that, there is no road. The path to the foot of Munku-Sardyk passes through the canyon of the Bely Irkut and Moguvek rivers, from an altitude of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. In winter, this section is traversed on ice crust using crampons. Above the canyon and forest boundary, the Moguvek River valley is wide and U-shaped. In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a glacial lake, Ehoy. From the road to the base camp at the forest boundary, it takes 4 hours to approach. The ascent to Munku-Sardyk begins from the lake. The northern slope of the Munku-Sardyk massif, facing the lake, is a glacier. The path to Munku-Sardyk via this slope is classified as category 2A. North from Munku-Sardyk's summit to Eskadrilya Peak, there is a rocky ridge of the main Bolshoy Sayan range. In the middle part of this section, Dinamo Peak rises to the east, towards the lake, with a pronounced shoulder, ending in a 400-meter wall. The beginning of the traverse route of category 5B difficulty starts from this wall. From Eskadrilya Peak, the main Bolshoy Sayan range turns west, and towards Tyhen Ardyn Peak, a spur turns northeast, dividing the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut rivers. The spur ends with a low mountain called "Katka Dura". From Dinamo Peak to Tyhen Ardyn Peak, there is a highly serrated ridge, dropping into the Moguvek gorge with rock walls of varying difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing area, ridge: Eastern Sayan, Bolshoy Sayan ridge.
2. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Munku-Sardyk peak 3491 m via Western ridge, combined.
3. Expected difficulty category: 1B category.
4. Route characteristics: height difference 1100 m, average steepness 35°.
5. Pitons used: rock 1, ice 2.
6. Total climbing hours: 4 hours.
7. Full name of the leader, participants, their qualification: Yakovenko A.N. — CMS, leader Belyaev S.A. — CMS, participant

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Eastern Sayan.
2. Peak — Tykhen-Ardyn 3175 m NE ridge from Gorny pass.
3. Category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Route description: Total elevation gain — 1100 m, including ascent to Gorny pass. Average steepness of the main part — 40°.
6. Equipment used on the route: protection — 6 pieces.
7. Total climbing hours — 10 hours.
8. Overnights — none.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.