View from the Ava-Dara valley to the Tokay lake valley

Photo 2. Overview photograph of the area. Peaks of the massif 5772 m (Upper Mazars valley)

Brief Overview of the Climbing Area

The climbing area is located in the Buryat Republic on the border with Mongolia in the Bolshoy Sayan range, in the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut gorges. The hub of the area is the massif of Munku-Sardyk (3491 m), the highest point of the Sayan Mountains. The area is approximately 300 km west of Irkutsk. From Irkutsk to the Mondy settlement, there is a good asphalt road of state importance. From Mondy, a 25 km gravel road leads to the Oka region of the Buryat Republic, to the bridge over the Bely Irkut River. Beyond that, there is no road. The path to the foot of Munku-Sardyk passes through the canyon of the Bely Irkut and Moguvek rivers, from an altitude of 1400 to 2200 m, i.e., to the forest boundary. In winter, this section is traversed on ice crust using crampons. Above the canyon and forest boundary, the Moguvek River valley is wide and U-shaped. In the upper part, above the second cirque, there is a glacial lake, Ehoy. From the road to the base camp at the forest boundary, it takes 4 hours to approach. The ascent to Munku-Sardyk begins from the lake. The northern slope of the Munku-Sardyk massif, facing the lake, is a glacier. The path to Munku-Sardyk via this slope is classified as category 2A. North from Munku-Sardyk's summit to Eskadrilya Peak, there is a rocky ridge of the main Bolshoy Sayan range. In the middle part of this section, Dinamo Peak rises to the east, towards the lake, with a pronounced shoulder, ending in a 400-meter wall. The beginning of the traverse route of category 5B difficulty starts from this wall. From Eskadrilya Peak, the main Bolshoy Sayan range turns west, and towards Tyhen Ardyn Peak, a spur turns northeast, dividing the upper reaches of the Moguvek and Bely Irkut rivers. The spur ends with a low mountain called "Katka Dura". From Dinamo Peak to Tyhen Ardyn Peak, there is a highly serrated ridge, dropping into the Moguvek gorge with rock walls of varying difficulty.

12. Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent. From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney. Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib. On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours. Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones). Further:

• Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes
• Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge
• Return to the base camp