Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — co-technical;
2. Ascent area — Pamiro-Alai, Guamysh gorge;
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — unnamed peak, 4300 m from the west, approximately 3A category of difficulty (first ascent)
4. Category of difficulty — 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m; length of sections with 3–4–5 categories of difficulty — 270 m; average steepness — 62°
6. Pitons driven: rock — 9, ice — 4, chocks — 7.
7. Number of climbing hours — 11 hours.
8. Date of ascent and return: June 27, 1981

up. 540 н. 13.09.1984. 5. 18.30 TACIOPIII 10 Category III climb, first ascent. 20 Pamir-Alay, Tamush gorge. 30 Peak "4900" via the left part of the northern wall 40 is proposed as a 5½ cat. prim. first ascent. 50 Elevation gain — 900 m, length — 1200 m, length of sections 5–6 cat. — 815 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 72° (4200–4900 m). 60 Pitons driven:

• ROCK
• FRIENDS AND NUTS
• ICE — 60, 1, 52, 10 70 team man-hours — 25; rope teams — 2.

View of the peaks on the eastern side of Joljilga valley View from the east from the ridge of p. Tsvillinga www.alpfederation.ru Climb to sec. R1–R2 [^0]

50

Category of Technically Difficult Climbs

Khud Alay Range

(Kichik-Alay Ridge) Peak "4003" (LVO Peak). First ascent via the northeast wall, category 5B (approximately) from July 27 to 31, 1974. LVO Mixed Climbing Team:

• A.V. Gaas, CMS, - team leader
• O.V. Khudyakov, IMS, - coach
• S.A. Fedorov, CMS, - participant
• Yu.P. Gavrikov, MS, - participant

Fig. 11. Pervomayskaya from the south-west

Route Description

First Ascent of Peak Yastreb (Takob district of the Gissar Ridge) Dushanbe. 1963

Description of the Peak and its Location

Peak Yastreb is located in one of the southern mountain spurs of the Gissar Ridge system, known as the Sanginavishta mountains. The most convenient approaches to the peak are from the tributaries of the Takob River — Taykutal and Drishint.

• Taykutal
• Drishint Peak Yastreb is the highest peak in the Takob district. Its height is approximately 4300 m. The peak rises sharply among the surrounding peaks and has a characteristic silhouette with very steep rocky slopes and a double summit, which is why the local population calls it "Dushokha," meaning "two-horned."

Ascent Report from the Hissar Ridge spurs

to the summit of Zamin Karor I Western 4303 m via the central part of the North-West wall, 6B (Shramko G. route), by the Kiev regional council team of the “Burevestnik” sports society:

3720

Peak NEVEZUCHAYA from the East

2A – complexity category Peak NEVEZUCHAЯA is located near Tajikskiye Igizaki. The approaches are similar to those for p. SHIROKAYA. Night stay

• in the gorge of the M. Igizak river
• at the mountain pasture at the exit from it. Ascent to the base of the rocks along the grassy slopes of the eastern ridge. Along easy rocks, directly along the ridge or slightly to the left of it, we approach the rocky belt, 20 m. The belt is traversed on the right along the continuation of the ridge via a chimney-cleft (20 m) with an exit to a good platform. Further, the path also follows the ridge along easy rocks, leading to the 1st summit. Descending from it to the saddle along easy rocks, we reach the 2nd summit. The summits are of equal height, around 3700 m.

n. Promezhutochny (4234)