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Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to Saratov Peak (3711 m) via the North Ridge, Category 1B difficulty, Bezengi region, Caucasus.
Climbing Passport
- Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
- To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
- Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
- The route is rock.
- Height difference is 500 m.
- There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
- Climbing time — 5 hours.
- Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
- Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.
Route Description: левой части ЮВ стены
Report on the first ascent of Pik Ural Vostochny via the left part of the southeast wall, cat. 5B, in August 2020 by a team of climbers from the Demchenko named ЦСКА and KAiS MPEI.
Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020.
Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.
Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall
Climbing details
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Nilov Sergey Alekseyevich, Master of Sports |
| 1.2 | Full names, sports ranks of the team members | Golovchenko Dmitry Nikolayevich, Candidate for Master of Sports; Yablokov Evgeny Alexandrovich, 1st sports rank |
| 1.3 | Full name of the coach | Kuznetsova Elena Valentinovna |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Report on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m) via the southwest wall, first ascent category 5A by the FASPb team on July 9, 2022
Report
on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:
- Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
- Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
- Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports
1. Ascent Passport
Route Description: С склону
Report on the ascent of the Demchenko CSKA team to the summit of Prividenie (3809 m) via the north face, first ascent, category 2B.
MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION
Report
On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team
To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m
Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.
Participants of the ascent
- Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.
Route Description: С ребру
Report on traversing the Krumkol — Dykhtau Main Ridge via a Category 6B route, accomplished by a team of climbers in July 2020.
Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents.
Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020
I. Ascent Passport
| 1. General Information | ||
|---|---|---|
| 1.1 | Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader | Dmitrienko E. V., MS |
| 1.2 | Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants | Susloparov P. A., CMS, Maximov D. S., CMS, Vasiliev I. V., CMS |
| 1.3 | Full Name of Coach | Bolkovoy E. V. |
| 1.4 | Organization | Alpinism Federation of Moscow Region |
Route Description: Ю гребню
Description of the 1B category difficulty route to the summit of Abduramanova (3250 m) in the Caucasus with a detailed characteristic of the path and the approach to it.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: rock.
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river gorge, 2.6.
- Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), South ridge.
- Expected difficulty category: 1B rock, p/p
- Route characteristics: Height difference — about 80 m. Route length — 320 m. Section lengths: 3rd difficulty category – 20 m
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the peak Abduramanova (3250 m) via the North ridge, complexity category 2A rock.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: rock climbing.
- Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river valley, 2.6.
- Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), North ridge.
- Expected category of difficulty: 2A rock, p/p
- Route characteristics: Height difference — about 300 m Route length — 500–600 m; Length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 80 m; 2nd category of difficulty — 180 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°
- Belaying through ledges, rock pitons.
- Number of walking hours/days — 5–6/1
Route Description: Ю ребру
Description of a new Category IIb climbing route to Agibalova Zapadnaya Peak (3770 m) in the Sugansky Ridge on the Caucasus.
134
Ascent Passport
- Caucasus. Sugansky Ridge, section number according to Classification 2.6.
- Agibalova West (3770 m) — via the South Edge.
- Proposed 2B cat. difficulty, first ascent.
- Route character — rocky.
- Route height difference — 230 m. Total route length — 285 m. Length of sections 4–5 cat. difficulty — 27 m. Steepness of key sections — up to 80°. Average steepness of the entire route — 45°.
- Hooks left on the route — none. Used on the route placed elements — 12.
Route Description: траверс
Description of a 2A category rock climbing route to Agibalova Peak (3705 m) via West-East Towers, traverse, in the Sugan Range, Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category: rock climbing
- Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
- Peak, route: peak Agibalova (3705 m): via West-East towers, traverse
- Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, semi-independent
- Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 900 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 110 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 55°
- Number of pitons driven: 6 pcs., number of chocks: 5 pcs.
- Number of walking hours / days: 7 / 1
- Number of overnight stays: 1 — at a bivouac
Route Description: с л. Аманауз
Traversing Sofruju peak from the North-East, category 2B: the itinerary, description of the ascent and descent sections, recommendations on equipment and organization of the climb.
Fig. 26
2. Traverse of Sofrudzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)
From Dombayskaya Polyana across the bridge over the Alibek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Amanauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the morena and over the "baarany lby" to the Amanauzsky glacier, and along it to the terminal morena under the Zapadno-Amanauzsky glacier. Camping site. From Dombayskaya Polyana — 3–4 hours. Further (in connection!) ascend to the Amanauz pass between the peaks Glavny Amanauz and Sofrudzhu. Ascend along the right side of the heavily crevassed glacier, then, in the upper part, under the slopes of Sofrudzhu Zub exit to the middle of the glacier, as snow avalanches are possible from the slopes of Sofrudzhu Zub. Along the middle of the glacier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky outcrop at the pass point.