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Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area, mountain range: Avachinskaya volcano group
3. Peak, its height, ascent route, route type: Kozelsky peak, 2170 m, left buttress of the western wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1070 m
   • including the crux: 320 m
   • route length: 1730 m

Via the South­east slope, 1B cat. dif. A. Yatskovsky 1959

Combined Due to the route's considerable length, it's necessary to start from the Avachinsky refuge no later than 4 am. The approach to the southeast slope goes along the road and further along the stream bed, which flows from its snowfields in a wide couloir with three steep snow pitches. When ascending, it's better to keep to the left side. Having overcome the last pitch, head towards the upper part of the left ridge, where there is an exit to the ridge through a small couloir along the rocks. Then follow the ridge to the "gates," and enter through a steep (40°) ice-snow couloir, 150 m long. It's better to pass the "gates" along the left or right edge, depending on the condition of the section, using a rope handrail. Then exit to the pre-summit shoulder and follow it to the pre-summit rocks. Further, traverse a wide couloir under the rocks, heading east. After completing the traverse, ascend a steep pitch to the summit. The ascent time is 10-11 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In summer, the upper part of the ascent couloir is prone to rockfall.

Koryakskaya sopka from northwest to southeast — category III (Figure 6)

From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky along the Yelizovo highway to the 31st kilometer, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and left from "5th Stroika" along the river through the bridge in the direction of the pass between Koryakskaya sopka and Arik along the forest roads of old logging sites, orienting towards a clearly visible spur leading to the summit, into the valley of a nameless dry river. On foot along the dry river to the lower part of the spur, which begins not far from the pass between Koryakskaya and Arik, at the forest boundary. Overnight stay. Nearby stream and firewood. Time taken to approach — 4–5 hours. From the dry river valley along the northwest spur (landmark — in the upper part of the spur, a plume of smoke from active fumaroles is constantly observed) in the direction of the summit. Rocks of medium difficulty, many gendarmes, most of which are bypassed. Overall steepness of the spur — 40–50°. In the middle part of the spur, three 5–6 m walls are traversed directly with piton belay. From the upper part of the spur, exit along a snow-ice slope (40–45°, 3 ropes) into a small depression near the pre-summit saw (southern edge of the old crater, filled with ice). Second overnight stay. Open areas, strong wind. From the second overnight stay along the pre-summit saw, exit onto the summit dome. Rocks are solid. The middle section of the saw is traversed on horseback (2 ropes). The saw gradually turns into a ridge, which drops off at the base of the summit dome with a 3–4 m wall (rappel). Exit to the summit 2–3 ropes — ice covered with a layer of fine volcanic scree (piton belay).

Ascent to Koryaksky volcano (3456 m) via the eastern ridge

Koryaksky volcano is the highest of the Koryak volcanic group. For a description of the summit of Koryaksky volcano, see the ascent via the false ridge. From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, take the Elizovo highway to the 30 km mark, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and from there, fording the Mutnaya River along the Sukhaya Rechka to the volcanologists' station; the journey can be made by car. Base camp is at an altitude of 900 m. From here, the approach to the route begins. From the station, move in the direction of Avachinsky Pass, leaving the characteristic "Camel" rocks to the right. From here, ascend the ridge, which is wide and heavily destroyed, to the characteristic reddish rocks (R3–R4) (section R8.04). Then, along the central axis, cross two couloirs (loose rocks!), the ridge between them is rocky, with easy climbing. There are snow patches in some places, and exit onto the eastern ridge (section R2). Move up along the ridge (easy climbing), occasionally bypassing 3–4 m gendarmes on the right, to a rocky massif on the right (R3–R4). There is a convenient platform at this location, and an overnight stay is possible. Rope up and continue moving with alternating belays. The rocks are moderately difficult, the ridge is well-defined, and the slope is 40–45° (section R3). In the upper part of the ridge, a 2-meter cylindrical gendarme stands out (R24). There is a cairn on it (see point A). From the gendarme, ascend a snowy firn slope with a slope of 40–45°. Overnight stay in a cave. Along a steep snowy slope — 45–50° — exit onto the pre-summit ridge and, bypassing a huge gendarme on the right, reach the summit. Cornices are possible on the pre-summit ridge; bypass them on the right (R1, R5, R4). Descent is via route 2A.

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DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO KORYAKSKY VOLCANO VIA THE NORTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B Category 3A (voice)

1. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE PEAK AND ITS LOCATION See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge, category 3B.
2. TRANSITION TO THE STARTING POINT OF THE ASCENT See the description of the ascent to Koryaksky volcano via the South Ridge. The dry riverbed is blocked in its upper reaches by an elevation overgrown with dense alder bushes. Only near the left bank, the river flowing from the Avachinsky glacier has carved a deep, narrow, solid bed. The river is turbulent and very muddy. The road continues along the right bank of the dry riverbed through thickets of alder bushes to the volcanological station. Practically, this road can be traversed at the end of July to October. The gullies filled with snow pose a serious obstacle for ordinary vehicles during May-July. If the vehicle cannot pass, further movement is on foot. The best passage is closer to the left bank of the dry riverbed through sparse alder bushes. The walking time to the volcanological station is 1 hour 15 minutes to 1 hour 30 minutes.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit

VACHKAZHTSY "DVUZUBKA" RIGHT, 1501 m above sea level (Kamchatka Krai, Elizovsky District, Ganal Range) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B DIFFICULTY (rocky, combined in winter) KHABAROVSK KRAI ALPINISM FEDERATION September 1, 2022

I. Climbing Report

Passport

1. Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Ganal'skiy Ridge, "Ganal'skie Ostryaki" area. Section No. 3 KMGV.
2. Main Peak (2062 m). Route: "via the South Ridge".
3. Proposed - 4A category of difficulty. First ascent.
4. Nature of the route: rock.
5. Height difference of the route: –592 m. Route length: –710 m. Rock section length: –360 m. Length of sections: 5 category of difficulty — 8 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 58°
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 1 piece;

1. Russia, Kamchatka Peninsula, Ganal Range, Ganal'skie Ostryaki area. Section # 3 KMGV.
2. Ptitsa Peak (2006 m). Route: "via the North Ridge".
3. Category proposed — 3B. First ascent.
4. Type of route: mixed terrain.
5. Elevation gain: 560 m. Route length: 740 m. Rock climbing length: 190 m. Sections of grade 5 difficulty: 6 m. Average slope of the main route section — 58°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total — 3; Total equipment used on the route: rock pitons — 6, cams and nuts — 34, including aid climbing equipment — 6.

Ascent Log

1. Region of ascent — Kamchatka, Ganal Range.
2. Peak — V. Yuzhnaya 2050 m, Southern Ridge.
3. Class of ascent — combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 2B.
5. Height difference — 550 m.
6. Route length — 1425 m.
7. Number of days — 1 day.
8. Number of walking hours — 8 h.
9. Leader, participants, surname and initials, sports rank.