Via the Southeast slope, 1B cat. dif. A. Yatskovsky 1959
Combined
Due to the route's considerable length, it's necessary to start from the Avachinsky refuge no later than 4 am. The approach to the southeast slope goes along the road and further along the stream bed, which flows from its snowfields in a wide couloir with three steep snow pitches. When ascending, it's better to keep to the left side. Having overcome the last pitch, head towards the upper part of the left ridge, where there is an exit to the ridge through a small couloir along the rocks. Then follow the ridge to the "gates," and enter through a steep (40°) ice-snow couloir, 150 m long. It's better to pass the "gates" along the left or right edge, depending on the condition of the section, using a rope handrail. Then exit to the pre-summit shoulder and follow it to the pre-summit rocks. Further, traverse a wide couloir under the rocks, heading east. After completing the traverse, ascend a steep pitch to the summit.
The ascent time is 10-11 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. In summer, the upper part of the ascent couloir is prone to rockfall.