Document #64751031 - Route Description

Shtavler via West wall of the South ridge (combined route, V. Kozyavkina, cat. 4B, fig. 32, 44). From the village Nakra, follow the road to the first stream. Here, turn left and ascend via the forest, grassy slopes, and scree of the Southeast ridge of Shtavler peak. Then traverse left across the southern grassy slopes of Shtavler to reach the col of the South ridge. From the col, descend to Shtavler West glacier. The initial bivouac is on the moraine of the glacier beneath the West wall of Shtavler. From the moraine, approach the right side of the West wall of Shtavler peak via the glacier. From the glacier, ascend a steep snowy slope to the right of two rock ridges, then via large scree and easy rocks, up and left to the top of the right rock ridge. From the ridge, follow a snowy slope, then ascend 12–15 m via monolithic, above-average difficulty rocks of the wall to a ledge. From the ledge, ascend up and left 18–20 m via a difficult wall. Then, ascend 10–12 m via a difficult corner to reach the next ledge. From the ledge, ascend 80–120 m up smoothed, moderately difficult slabs to a snow patch and follow it to a platform on a snowy rock ridge. From the platform, ascend 30–40 m up the ridge beneath overhanging rocks. Beneath the wall, traverse right and ascend 200–250 m up heavily broken, tile-like rocks of moderate difficulty ("live" rocks) to a platform on the ridge beneath the wall. Bivouac. From the moraine, 6–8 hours. From the platform, ascend 50 m up a difficult wall to inclined slabs. Follow the slabs 30–40 m up. Further, ascend via easy snowy rocks of the ridge, then 150–200 m up a steep ice-and-snow ridge (avalanches) to the right side of the overhanging rocks of the West wall. From here, ascend 200–250 m up broken rocks of moderate difficulty (rocks, "live" rocks) with snowy sections to the South ridge of Shtavler (cairn). From the bivouac on the West wall, 5–6 hours. Follow the South ridge to approach the I gendarme and bypass it on the right. Overcome the II gendarme head-on and ascend to the summit of Shtavler via easy and moderately difficult snowy rocks of the South ridge. From the point of reaching the South ridge, 1–1.5 hours.
Sandro West via Southeast slope (rock route, cat. 2A, fig. 2, 4). From the base camp (c.p. 1), follow a grassy slope, then scree to approach a narrow, snowy scree couloir on the right side of the South ridge of Sandro West peak. Ascend the couloir 30–40 m. Then traverse 80–100 m with a slight ascent along the couloir via ledges and easy rocks of the Southeast slope of Sandro West to reach a platform beneath slabs ascending up and left along the Southeast slope. From the platform, ascend left and 80–100 m up the right side of the slabs ("live" rocks, protection), along the vertical right walls. Then traverse 40–50 m up and left across the slabs ("live" rocks, protection). Further, ascend via easy broken rocks and a 5–8-meter internal corner-chimney to reach a balcony. Traverse the narrowing balcony of the Southeast slope with a slight ascent to the right, then traverse up and left along a wide ledge to a platform. From the platform, ascend via easy broken rocks of the 30-meter Southeast slope to the summit of Sandro West. From the base camp, 4–5 hours.

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