Koryakskaya sopka from northwest to southeast — category III (Figure 6)
From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky along the Yelizovo highway to the 31st kilometer, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and left from "5th Stroika" along the river through the bridge in the direction of the pass between Koryakskaya sopka and Arik along the forest roads of old logging sites, orienting towards a clearly visible spur leading to the summit, into the valley of a nameless dry river.
On foot along the dry river to the lower part of the spur, which begins not far from the pass between Koryakskaya and Arik, at the forest boundary.
Overnight stay. Nearby stream and firewood. Time taken to approach — 4–5 hours.
From the dry river valley along the northwest spur (landmark — in the upper part of the spur, a plume of smoke from active fumaroles is constantly observed) in the direction of the summit. Rocks of medium difficulty, many gendarmes, most of which are bypassed. Overall steepness of the spur — 40–50°.
In the middle part of the spur, three 5–6 m walls are traversed directly with piton belay.
From the upper part of the spur, exit along a snow-ice slope (40–45°, 3 ropes) into a small depression near the pre-summit saw (southern edge of the old crater, filled with ice).
Second overnight stay. Open areas, strong wind.
From the second overnight stay along the pre-summit saw, exit onto the summit dome. Rocks are solid. The middle section of the saw is traversed on horseback (2 ropes). The saw gradually turns into a ridge, which drops off at the base of the summit dome with a 3–4 m wall (rappel). Exit to the summit 2–3 ropes — ice covered with a layer of fine volcanic scree (piton belay).
Ascent time: – from 1st overnight stay to 2nd — 10–11 hours; – from 2nd overnight stay to the summit — 5–6 hours.
Descent along the category II route.
Recommendations for Climbers
- Number of participants — 4–6 people.
- Initial bivouac — valley of a nameless dry river.
- Departure time — from bivouac not later than 6:00 am, from upper overnight stays 4:00–5:00 am.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
a) main rope 2x30 m;
b) rock pitons — 8 pcs.;
c) ice pitons — 4 pcs.;
d) carabiners — 8 pcs.;
e) rock hammer — 2 pcs.;
f) cordelette — 5 m;
g) crampons — 4 pairs.
Approach scheme to Avachinskaya group of volcanoes. Fig. 1
Avachinskaya sopka — category I (ascent). Fig. 2
Avachinskaya sopka — category IA (ascent). Fig. 3
Photo
Photo
Kozelskaya sopka — category I (ascent), category III (traverse). Fig. 4
Koryakskaya sopka — category II (ascent). Fig. 5
Koryakskaya sopka — category III (traverse). Fig. 6
