Ascent to Koryaksky volcano (3456 m) via the eastern ridge
Koryaksky volcano is the highest of the Koryak volcanic group. For a description of the summit of Koryaksky volcano, see the ascent via the false ridge.
From Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky, take the Elizovo highway to the 30 km mark, then turn right towards "5th Stroika" and from there, fording the Mutnaya River along the Sukhaya Rechka to the volcanologists' station; the journey can be made by car. Base camp is at an altitude of 900 m.
From here, the approach to the route begins. From the station, move in the direction of Avachinsky Pass, leaving the characteristic "Camel" rocks to the right. From here, ascend the ridge, which is wide and heavily destroyed, to the characteristic reddish rocks (R3–R4) (section R8.04).
Then, along the central axis, cross two couloirs (loose rocks!), the ridge between them is rocky, with easy climbing. There are snow patches in some places, and exit onto the eastern ridge (section R2).
Move up along the ridge (easy climbing), occasionally bypassing 3–4 m gendarmes on the right, to a rocky massif on the right (R3–R4). There is a convenient platform at this location, and an overnight stay is possible. Rope up and continue moving with alternating belays. The rocks are moderately difficult, the ridge is well-defined, and the slope is 40–45° (section R3). In the upper part of the ridge, a 2-meter cylindrical gendarme stands out (R24). There is a cairn on it (see point A). From the gendarme, ascend a snowy firn slope with a slope of 40–45°. Overnight stay in a cave. Along a steep snowy slope — 45–50° — exit onto the pre-summit ridge and, bypassing a huge gendarme on the right, reach the summit. Cornices are possible on the pre-summit ridge; bypass them on the right (R1, R5, R4).
Descent is via route 2A.
The total duration of the ascent from the start of the route to its completion is 10–11 hours.
Relative ascent height (height difference) is 2500 m.
The described ascent to Koryaksky volcano took place on June 6, 1968.
Completed by a sports group of climbers from the Kamchatka Alpine Section, consisting of 3 people, led by Maximov A. — II sports category.
Group qualification:
- II category — 3 people.
Recommendations for climbers:
- Number of participants: 4–6 people.
- Departure time — 4–5 hours.
- Equipment: main rope 2×30 (3×30), ice axes — 3 pcs., rock hammer — 2 pcs., rock pitons — 4–6 pcs., crampons — 2 pairs.
According to the participants, the route is rated 3A.
Krinitsky. 3.70
