Ascent Report

1. Caucasus, Rocky Range, Cherek gorge.
2. Ekrzdyggen peak, 3160 m, via the northern ridge.
3. Proposed - 1B category of difficulty, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 915 m (GPS) Route length: 1300 m. Average slope of the entire route - 35°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total: 0; including bolted: 0.

4310 — Gestola, NE ridge, traverse, 4A cat. Route of ascent to the top. Gestola through Mt. Lyalver.

• Red dashed line — ascent route
• 4A route is indicated by a blue dashed line
• A possible emergency descent route, unclassified route, is indicated by a black dashed line
• Green labels — overnight stays 4 — Chyornye Osypi (Black Talus) stop.

1. Ascent to Gestola peak via Lyalver.

Gestola peak (4850 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Ridge, in the Bezengi Wall. The ascent to Gestola via Lyalver is classified as 3B cat. difficulty.

• Climbing area: Central Caucasus, Lateral Ridge, Krumkol glacier valley. KMGV section number: 2.5
• Peak: 4443 via the Southwest couloir and Northwest ridge.
• Category of complexity: proposed 4A category, first ascent.
• Route character: combined.
• Height difference: about 1000 m.
• Route length: about 1500 m, including:
  • length of rock sections IV — 25 m,
  • rock sections III — 45 m,
  • ice sections with a slope of at least 40° — 200 m.
• Number of pitons used:

Climbing Passport

1. Caucasus, Bezengi region, Ukyu gorge. Section 2.5 according to the 2013 classification table.
2. To the peak named after Yu.S. Saratov, 3711 m high, via the N ridge 43.05.337 N 43.10.797 E.
3. Proposed category 1B difficulty, first ascent.
4. The route is rock.
5. Height difference is 500 m.
6. There is 1 rappel anchor on the route.
7. Climbing time — 5 hours.
8. Leader — S.A. Slotyuk, Candidate Master of Sports, in a team of two with S.V. Kotachkov, Candidate Master of Sports.
9. Coach — S.A. Slotyuk.

Report on the first ascent of Ural Vostochny Peak (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall, approximately 5B category of difficulty, by the combined team of CSKA named after Demchenko and KAiS MPEI, from August 19 to August 20, 2020. Senior coach: Kuznetsova E.V. Team leader: Nilov S.A.

Ural Vostochny (4273 m) via the left part of the SE wall

Climbing details

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Ural (V) (4273 m), via the Southwest wall, first ascent, approximately 5A category of difficulty, by the team Сборная ФАСПб from July 9 to July 9, 2022. Team coach: Timoshenko T.I. Team members:

• Bolyachkin D.L. — 1st sports category
• Matinyan A.A. — Master of Sports
• Trikozov V.M. — Master of Sports

1. Ascent Passport

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the Demchenko-named CSKA team

To the summit of Prividenie (Ghost) 3809 m

Central Caucasus, Koshtan-krest ridge (43°2′37.71″ N, 43°16′25.86″ E) via the Northern slope First ascent, presumably category 2B Zaryaev V.V. – Galimzyanov T.R.

Participants of the ascent

1. Team leader – Zaryaev Vladimir Valerievich¹ 1st sports category Address: 117465, Moscow, Profsoyuznaya str., 156, bld. 1, apt. 384.

Russian Championship in Alpinism 2020. Class of Altitudinal-Technical Ascents.

Report on the Traverse of Krumkol (4688 m) – Dykhtau Gl. (5205 m), via Route 6B cat. dif. by the Combined Team of Voronezh Region and Moscow Region for the Period from July 15 to July 22, 2020

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gebidon river gorge, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Abduramanova (3250 m), South ridge.
4. Expected difficulty category: 1B rock, p/p
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 80 m. Route length — 320 m. Section lengths: 3rd difficulty category – 20 m

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: