Fig. 45a

Route Description

Peak Kosmodemyanskaya is located in the western branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur, which is the watershed of the Malaya and Bolshaya Almatinka rivers. Ridges extend from it to the northeast, northwest, and south. On the northeastern side, a small eponymous glacier descends from the slopes. The approach to the route begins from the Tuyuksu glacier in the direction of the Lokomotiv pass on the southeastern side of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya. A wide couloir (in winter, filled with snow) at the beginning of the route R0 leads to a talus couloir, which exits onto the southeastern ridge. Then:

• A small wall leads to a несложный (uncomplicated) ridge of 1–2 cat. dif.
• Further — a talus couloir, turning into an inner corner;
• The end of the route — the exit to the summit of Peak Kosmodemyanskaya.

Location, Approach Route, and Ascent History

The peak named after the youth newspaper "Leninskaya Smena" is located in the central ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. Its western ridge descends to the well-known Ozerny pass, through which a tourist path leads to the shores of Lake Issyk-Kul (see the map of the Leninskaya Smena peak area). From Almaty Lake, the approach to the peak is made along a well-trodden path up the gorge, along the Ozerny River, which flows into the lake. The time it takes to approach from the lake to the confluence of the South-Eastern River and Ozerny River is about 4 hours. Further, the path goes to Ozerny pass along both the right and left banks of the Ozerny River:

• The approach to the peak is more convenient along the right (orographic) bank.
• The descent is along the left (orographic) bank. From the confluence of the rivers to the tongue of the glacier, flowing west from the northern ridge of the Leninskaya Smena peak, it takes another 1.5–2 hours. The most acceptable and convenient path to the summit is the ridge that branches off from the northern ridge and merges with it not far from the summit (see the map). It was along this ridge that the first ascenders took the path in 1956 (a group of climbers from the Kazakh club led by Kucherenko G.). A group of climbers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Kazakh SSR Academy of Sciences, led by Saprykin V.D., climbed the same route on September 2, 1956, and this description was compiled based on that ascent.

Route Description

The Lokomotiv peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Maloalmatinsky spur - the Kumbel ridge. To complete the ascent via this route, follow these steps:

• Reach the Tuyuk-Su glacier
• Move along the left lateral moraine and cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier flowing into it
• Follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya peaks Ascend via a couloir covered with talus to the ridge north of the rocky tower, which can be bypassed from the west along a steep 200-meter ice slope. Steep sections require:
• Step cutting
• Mass belaying Continue along steep snow-ice sections of the ridge, with cornices in some areas (be cautious!), then along the ridge to the summit, which consists of huge rocky blocks with a steep drop to the northeast. The ascent to the summit is from the southwest; the cairn is located on a large flat boulder.

Route Description

From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier, exit onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier and, moving along the left lateral moraine, cross the Kosmodemyanskaya glacier that flows into it. Then follow the talus along the rocky ridge connecting the peaks of Lokomotiv and Kosmodemyanskaya. The ascent to the Lokomotiv peak is described above (category 2A difficulty via the North ridge). Bypassing a series of gendarmes on the right via moderately difficult and easy rocks, descend to the saddle between the peaks of Pogrebetskogo and Lokomotiv. Ascend to the peak of Pogrebetskogo via snowy, not very steep slopes, and occasionally talus. Then move along the eastern ridge to the Tuyuk-Su pass. From there, descend to the glacier to the foot of the ridge of the Tuyuk-Su peak, and, bypassing it on the left, head to the initial bivouac. The traverse takes 10–12 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — not limited.
2. Initial bivouac on the moraine of the Molodezhny glacier.
3. Departure from the bivouac at 5:00 AM.

Manshuk Mametova Peak 2A cat. via 3rd slope from Mametova Glacier

Route description. From the Alpengrad site, take the trail to Manshuk-Mametova Glacier. Move along it towards the saddle between Manshuk-Mametova and Antikainen peaks under the ice wall. Organize rope teams after crossing the even part of the glacier. At the beginning of the ascent, the route goes along a snow-ice slope with a steepness of up to 35° (rope protection is set up). Then, traverse left towards the foot of the ice-snow forehead. To overcome the forehead, it is necessary to set up rope protection, sometimes piton belay. Further, navigating through crevices, reach the saddle. When moving in the upper part of the glacier, use piton belay. From the saddle, ascend via a couloir along small scree, then along snow or ice. When moving in the couloir, stick to the left side. In case of ice exposure in its upper part, set up rope protection. The couloir leads to moderate-difficulty rocks. From there, continue to a steep snow patch, the passage of which requires thorough belay and great caution (the massif of the peak drops off towards Manshuk-Mametova Glacier with a 300-meter wall). When ascending with large groups, from the exit from the couloir to the summit, it is necessary to set up rope protection (2 ropes). A cairn with a note is located in the northern part of the summit. Descend via the ascent route. The ascent takes 9-10 hours.

Recommendations:

• 1. Number of participants: 12-14 people.

2. Initial bivouac: Alpengrad.
3. Departure from bivouac at 5:00 AM.
4. Equipment for a group of 4 people:

• main rope 2 × 30 m
• rock pitons: 4-5 pcs.
• ice screws: 4-6 pcs.

Peak Mayakovsky via the Eastern Ridge, cat. 3B, "Telnyashka", I. Cherepov 1952

Having ascended the road above Mynzhilki, pass the "Black Stone" memorial, after which ascend the moraine ridge of the Tuyuk-Su glacier, along which move to the cirque of Peak Mayakovsky. At the entrance to the cirque there are:

• Campsites,
• "Kresty" campsite (a white cross is drawn on the rock nearby). Then move up along the moraine and the Ordzhonikidze West glacier until you reach its gentle part. You will be faced with "Telnyashka" — a rocky wall cut by

Molodezhnaya 1B cat. sl. via Molodezhny pass, descent along the NE ridge

Description of the route. The fan-shaped Molodezhnaya peak is located in the northwestern branch of the Malo-Almatinsky spur (between the eponymous pass and the peak named after Kosmodemyanskaya). Its southwestern slope is covered with powerful scree, while the northeastern slope is covered with snow and ice. The massif of the peak and its northeastern ridge are the main source of nourishment for the 2.5 km long, 2 sq. km Molodezhny glacier. From the initial bivouac on the moraine of the glacier:

• Cross the ramparts
• Reach the glacier slightly above its tongue
• Move along the middle of the glacier to the foot of the slope of the Molodezhny pass (3735 m) The slope is snowy, with exposed ice areas at the end of the season, with a steepness of 30–35°. From here, begin the ascent to the ridge straight up, orienting towards a group of rocks; it is not recommended to go to the left — it can trigger an avalanche. The ridge leads to the so-called "chicken breast" — a steep section of snow or ice, which is overcome with piton belay (2 ice screws) along the fixed ropes or bypassed along the rocks. The length of the section is about 40 m, with a steepness of up to 50°. Beyond the "chicken breast" is the exit to the shoulder of the peak — a small snow plateau; from here, the ascent to the peak follows snow and a gentle, fine scree. The peak is a wide snow plateau with the remains of a destroyed ridge, on which a cairn is built. Descent along the northeastern ridge. The encountered gendarmes are easily bypassed. Insurance is sometimes necessary. Having reached the two-pronged gendarme, one can:
• release the main ropes

Muztau (4556 m)

Ascent from the Toguзак Glacier along the northern edge, route 2А category of complexity (fig. 6). The Muztau peak is located in the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. To the east of it, separated by a vast firn plateau, rises the peak Sovetsky Kazakhstan, and to the south-west, also behind a large firn plateau, is the peak 10 let Kazakhskoy SSR. From the initial bivouac on the terminal moraine of the Toguзак Glacier - exit to its left branch. The tongue of the glacier and the glacier itself are not steep. Above the place where the right and left branches of the glacier merge, there are transverse crevices. Here, rope up and go to the foot of the northern edge of Muztau. Further ascent along this edge. From the bivouac - 1.5-2 hours of walking. The further path is visible from

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")