The main summit of Psysh mountain (3509 m) is located in the Main Caucasian Range, in the upper reaches of the Psysh river between the passes:

• to the west — Naur,
• to the east — Chamagvara and glaciers:
• Northern Psysh,
• Southwest Psysh. In addition to the main summit, there is also the Eastern summit of Psysh, to which the Busha glacier is adjacent from the north, and the Skeu glacier from the south. The North-Psyshsky and Busha glaciers are separated by an ice isthmus, to the north of which the Tokmak peak rises in a beautiful pyramid (see orographic diagram, photo I). There are no classified routes to any of the peaks in the upper reaches of the Psysh gorge. Only in the upper reaches of the Amanauz river — a left tributary of the Psysh river — were four routes to the peaks climbed and classified in 1978:
• Akademika Kalesnik (2A and 3B)
• 60 let VLKSM (2B and 3B)

DESCRIPTION

First ascent to v. Sofia via the eastern slope and ridge, approximately category 2A difficulty. From the base camp, follow the trail used by Kislovodsk climbers to the Sofiyskiy glacier, emerging under the eastern slopes of v. Sofia – 4 hours. The route initially follows a diagonal ledge, from right to left, passing from "sheep's foreheads" to "sheep's foreheads". The approach involves a steep snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45° – 250–300 m, followed by a wide bergschrund. The "sheep's foreheads" are traversed with piton protection – initially 10 m straight up, then 60 m to the left with a gradual gain in height. Climbing is difficult. The group of six spends 2 hours on this section. After reaching the diagonal ledge, move along it to the left towards a couloir descending from the ridge – 45–60 minutes. Movement is with simultaneous protection. The ledge is snow-covered. Before the couloir, turn right at a 90° angle and climb onto a degraded rocky ridge. The rocks are moderately difficult, with movement on a full rope and simultaneous protection. The ridge has many protrusions that can be used for belaying. The ascent along the ridge takes 1 hour, after which you emerge onto a snowy slope with a gradient of 40–45°. This slope is traversed:

• initially 60 m up and to the left,
• then 30 m up and to the right, emerging onto the eastern ridge – 20–30 minutes.

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category—
2. Climbing region— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake.
3. Climbing route — Tsynдышхо Northern via the north-eastern ridge
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain — 1,252 m average slope of ascent — 40° length of difficult sections —
5. Pitons driven:
   • rock —

Ascent Passport

Ascent Category	— technical
Ascent Region	— Krasnodar Krai, Kardyvach Lake
Ascent Route	— Mt. Tsyndyshkho Southwest (3150 m) from Tsyndyshkho Pass, 2B category
Ascent Characteristics:
	The route is combined, total elevation gain — 400–450 m, average slope — 35–40°, total climbing time (from camp to camp) — 10–13 hours.
Team Name	— Group of climbers from Krasnodar City Committee on Physical Culture and Sports.
Team Members:	Zavalei Igor Leonidovich — leader, 2nd sports category; Nataev Vladimir Nikolaevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor; Yakovleva Lyudmila Trofimovna — 3rd sports category; Rogulenko Vyacheslav Ivanovich — 2nd sports category
Team Coach —	Kisel Sergey Yakovlevich — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior mountaineering instructor.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Krasnodar Krai up to Marukh pass
3. Ascent route: traverse of Tsyndyshko: Northern 3102 m, 2nd Northern 3107 m, Main 3210 m, South-Western 3150 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4A
5. Pitons driven: rock: 32 (including chocks) ice: 4 bolt: –

REPORT

ON THE ASCENT (TRAVERSAL) OF AKBENSKIE PEAKS VIA THE CENTRAL EASTERN EDGE EXPEDITION LEADER GNOEVSKY I.P. Taganrog 1978

I. Brief Geographical Description and Sporting Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Akbenskie (North and South) peaks are located in the Ptysh cirque and are adjacent to Ptysh Glavny from the south, and to the Juguтурлючат massif from the north. Thus, Akbenskie peaks are situated on the Main Caucasian Ridge. The height of the South peak is 3510 m, and the North peak is 3530 m. The Akbenskie peaks drop sharply into the Ptysh cirque from the east and to the South Ptysh cirque from the west. The height difference from the glacier to the peak is 1100 m.

2. Climbing Conditions in the Area

Sportive Characteristics and Selection of the Ascent Object

The area began to be explored in terms of alpinism in 1934. The peak Maly Aksaut has the following routes:

• a route of category 2B difficulty via the eastern ridge, described in F. Kropff's book "Western Caucasus", M.: FiS, 1962;
• a route traversed by the Odessa Regional Council of the "Avangard" sports society in July 1975, approximately category 3B difficulty. No other data on ascents to the peak M. Aksaut was found. Upon closer acquaintance with the area, the logical and objective safety of the route along the eastern counterfort was established, as well as its sportive attractiveness. This determined the object of the ascent.

Composition of the Sports Group

The group consisted of:

• Braer V.I. (leader), 1st sports category
• Markovsky O.V., Master of Sports of the USSR

Fig. 30

2. Ascent to the main summit of Dzhuguturluchat via the northern slope - category (see Fig. 30)

From Abalakovskaya bivouac to the left-up along the glacier, bypassing ice falls from the left, then to the right-up along the slope between the ice falls and the rocky island.

• At first, the slope is gentle - 200-250 m
• Then the steepness increases to 45°, in some places - up to 50° (belay!)
• In the second half of summer, there is ice on this section; ice screws are necessary for belay (45-50°, belay!) Further to the right - up to the northwest ridge and along it to the summit. From the bivouac

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF Soviet VoIN PEAK VIA THE ROUTE OF 3A DIFFICULTY CATEGORY BY THE FRI-LINE TEAM FROM PYATIGORSK ON SEPTEMBER 28, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Konstantinov G.A. 1st sports rank
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Popov M.L. CMS, Semenova O.A. 1st sports rank
1.3	Full name of the coach	Motienko N.I. CMS
1.4	Organization	Fri-line MAC
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object
2.1	Region	Caucasus, Kabardino-Balkaria

Climbing Passport

1. Snow and ice class.
2. Central Caucasus, Dykh-Su valley.
3. Peak Aylama via the center of the North face.
4. Proposed category: 5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1475 m, route length — 2333 m. Average steepness of main sections — 53°. Including 6th category sections up to 95° — 27 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock — 5 bolt hangers — 3