Description

Climbing Route to the Summit "Komsomolskaya"

The summit "Komsomolskaya" is located in a spur of the Kollektor Ridge on a crest branching off to the northeast from the summit Khamza. The height of the summit is 3900 m. The approach to the summit from the alplager "Dugoba" is upstream along the Dugoba River to the confluence of the Ulitor and Ak-Tash rivers (time 2 hours). From the confluence, it is upstream along a narrow gorge, with the summit as a landmark (see the approach diagram). The path through the gorge to the start of the route takes 1.5 hours. Here is a convenient place for a bivouac: plenty of firewood, water, and flat areas. The ascent route begins on a large grassy slope. Time 1 hour. In the upper part, this slope turns into a medium scree, which must be traversed upwards to the right in the direction of the summit. In the upper part of the scree, two large rock outcrops forming a gate serve as landmarks. Time 1 hour. Having passed through these gates, ascend upwards through the left rocky couloir with simultaneous belay. Time 45 minutes. The couloir leads to the pre-summit ridge. Continue moving to the right along the ridge towards the summit. On the ridge, there is a section of smooth rocks with a slope of 30°–40° and a length of 50 m. This section is overcome with alternate belay through outcrops. Rope rails are convenient for a large group. In June, these rocks may be covered with ice. After this section, continue moving towards the summit slightly below the ridge line. Time 30 minutes. The ascent to the summit takes 3.5–4 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route and takes 1.5 hours. The nature of the route is rocky, but early in the summer, snow and ice are possible.

Dgoba alpine camp area, Pamir-Alay

"Krestyanka" peak 4200 m 4150

Description

Route along the right ridge of the Eastern wall by the seminar group of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club (approximately 35 km of trails)

• Guzeev V.V. — 1st category — leader
• Kudinov N.S. — 1st category — participant
• Markov A.V. — 2nd category — participant
• Plokhotny V.V. — 2nd category — participant Public rescue team of the Pamir-Alay region tourist club

Passport

First ascent to the summit peak 4804 (peak LTI) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B (tentative)

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay
3. Summit, height, ascent route — peak 4804 via NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 260 m, average slope — 33°
6. Pitons driven: for belay — 17 Rock — 17 Ice —

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, spurs of the Kollektor Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. "Novichok" 4000 m, NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category
5. Route characteristics: height difference, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty categories, average steepness
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying — 8 rock pitons
7. Number of walking hours — 7 hours
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics —
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification

Ascent Passport

I. Technical. 2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge. 3. Peak Nikolaeva (4900 m) via the central bastion of the NE wall. 4. Category 5A difficulty. 5. Height difference 540 m, average steepness — about 70°. 6. 96 pitons driven. Rock — 85 Ice — 11 Bolts — 0

Description of the ascent route to the summit Ulitor 4680 m via North spur of West ridge, category 3B difficulty (orientation)

The summit Ulitor 4680 m is located in the spurs of the Alay ridge in the Kollektorskiy range between the summits Fergana and Zachetnaya. To the east of Ulitor lies the pass Fergana, category 1B difficulty, and to the west - the pass Ulitor, category 2B difficulty. To approach the start of the route from the alplager "Dugoba", it is necessary to:

• ascend along the Dugoba gorge (via a trail) to the confluence with the Ulitor river,
• then along the Ulitor river gorge (via a trail) to the 3600 m campsite. From there, continue up the gorge (keeping to the right-hand side):
• initially via a trail,
• then across moraines,
• emerging onto the Ulitor glacier and traversing its center towards the summit Ulitor.

Passport

I. Class: TECHNICAL 2. Region: PAMIR-ALAI, ALAISKY ridge 3. Peak: SHAIT (4916 m), via the Northeast face 4. Route complexity category: 6A 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain: 938 m, Average slope: 65°. Section lengths:

• 4th category complexity — 35 m
• 5th category complexity — 910 m
• 6th category complexity — 90 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area, ridge — Alaysky.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Aydarbek, 5127 m, along the western ridge via peak 4890 m.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 4A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m. length of R5–R6 sections — average steepness — 35°
6. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating artificial holds. | rock | –4 | | :------- | :-- |

Moskovsky Komsomolets via the west ridge, combined, 1B

Route description:

Exit from the Ullu-Tau camp along the trail leading to rock climbing exercises. From the end of the trail, up the couloir and then left onto the moraine to the lake. From the lake, up to the right onto the snowy shoulder of the rock protruding into the cirque from the slopes of Moskovsky Komsomolets. Overnight stay on the shoulder. From the overnight stay, we ascend a snow slope of moderate steepness (ЗСИЮ0) to reach the northern edge. We follow the snowy ridge to the first gendarme head-on. Then, along the snowy saddle to a group of rocks and further to a large boulder. Along the steep snowy ridge, we proceed to the foot of the ring-shaped gendarme. The gendarme is passed on the left along the wall, exiting onto the left shoulder. Protection is provided through ledges. Further along the snowy ridge, we approach the summit tower and ascend the Eastern summit via rocks of moderate difficulty. The descent from the Eastern summit is done along the ridge to the saddle in the direction of Azot peak. Initially, we overcome a wall and then follow the snowy ridge, overcoming a series of small gendarmes that lead to a couloir. After passing the couloir, we exit onto the ridge somewhat above the saddle. The descent from the saddle is along a 45° snow slope. Careful belaying is necessary due to the possibility of a bergschrund. Further, the slope becomes more gentle and leads into the glacier cirque. The descent to the camp is done via the ascent route.