Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, NW spurs of Adyr ridge, north of South Sabalyk glacier, from Adyrsu gorge side.
3. Peak 3800 m, from Southeast, first ascent.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B.
5. Elevation gain of the route 400 m.
6. Pitons used 1/0.
7. Number of climbing hours — 7 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route. Bivouac on South Sabalyk glacier moraine.
9. Leader Kiselev Nikolai Petrovich, Candidate Master of Sports.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: Pik Zagadok, 3737 m: Eastern tower via the Eastern wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A rock: semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — about 650 m, route length — 800 m, section lengths: 2nd category of difficulty — 700 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
6. Pitons used: 3 pcs., chocks — 4, "friends" — 2
7. Time spent on the route / days: 7 / 1
8. Number of nights spent: 1 — at a bivouac

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, l. Bartuy valley, 2.6.
3. Peak, route: Kushdarh (3672 m), from the south.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 2B rock, semi-unknown
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — about 150 m. Route length — 350 m. Length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 40 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 240 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 50 °
6. Pitons hammered: 2 on the wall, 2 loops left on descent.
7. Number of climbing hours/days — 7/1

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Rocky Ridge.
3. Meschena East. (3130 m), via the South Ridge wall.
4. Proposed category 4A–4B, first ascent.
5. Route height difference is 220 m; route length is 260 meters. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 55 m. Average steepness is 60°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • Rock – 9
   • Nuts – 17
   • Ice – 0

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Rocky Range, Classification section number — 2.6.
2. Muldzugi-Barzond (3064 m); from the West via the Northern ridge.
3. Proposed category: 1B; first ascent.
4. The route is of a rocky nature.
5. Height difference of the route — 350 m. Route length is about 900 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: up to 60°.
• entire route: 30°.

6. Insurance on the route is provided by rock formations.

Ascent Passport

1. Digoria, Sugansky ridge, Classification section number 2.6.
2. p. Naumova (3602 m) – from the South.
3. Proposed 2A category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route character — rocky.
5. Route height difference – 300 m (from point R0). Total route length – 510 m. Length of sections with 4th category of complexity – 30 m. Average steepness:
   • key sections – 70°

Fig. 34

1. Ascent to Peak Ine (3409 m) from the northeast — category 2A difficulty (Fig. 34)

From Dombayskaya Polyana along the trail to Dombayskoye valley to the old moraine opposite the Ine glacier — there is a signpost. From the signpost to the right, across the bridge over the Dombay river and to the left of the "ram's foreheads" up the grassy slopes. Further along the scree to the glacier and on it (in teams) to the "red rocks". Then up the moraine to the glacier bivouac. From Dombayskaya Polyana 4–5 hours. From the bivouac, ascent along the glacier to a snowfield with a slope of 35–40° and along it up to the right to a gap in the north-eastern ridge of Peak Ine. From the gap up to the left

Ascent Log.

1. Category: Rock
2. Western Caucasus, Arkhyz, Sofiyskoe valley, Orlenok valley
3. Sputnik (2650). Via southern ridge
4. Proposed category: 1B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 250 m Route length: 900 m. Rock section: 450 m
6. Pitons left on the route: rock 2 pcs.
7. Team's climbing hours: five up, four down
8. Leader: Kolokolnikov Konstantin Vladimirovich

DESCRIPTION

First ascent of the northeast ridge of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak of cat. diff.

by the group of instructors from "BAXAN" alpine camp on September 15-18, 1958

Caucasus Sylan gorge

Brief characteristics of SYL-TRAN-KEL-BOSHI peak.

Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak (3,806 m) is located in the watershed ridge running east from Elbrus. It separates the Su-Boshi valley from the Irik-Chat valley. The following peaks are located west of Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak in this ridge:

• Mukol
• Kagem
• Irik-Chat to the south of Kuby-Santyg. The path to Sylan-Kel-Boshi peak starts from Verkhniy Baksan settlement.