Ascent Passport

1. Rocky ridge; Classification section № 2.8 96
2. Tbau East (2832 m), via the Eastern edge of the Southeast bastion.
3. 5B category of difficulty
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS) Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty: 150 m. Average steepness: — main part of the route: 75°

1. Rocky ridge; section number in Classification 2.8
2. Tbau Eastern (2832 m), via the Eastern ridge of the South-Eastern bastion.
3. Proposed category: 5B; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 912 m (by GPS). Route length: 1550 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category: 135 m. Average steepness:

• main part of the route: 75°;
• entire route: 65°.

6. Pitons left on the route: total – 9 pcs., of which 7 are hammered. Pitons used on the route:

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT MULDZUGI — BARZOND (3064 m) VIA THE ROUTE CATEGORY IIIB BY THE FRI-LINE CLUB TEAM May 18, 2019 Pyatigorsk

I. Ascent Passport

1. General Information

1.1 Team Leader: Popov M.L. Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Caucasus; Rocky Ridge; Classification section number - 2.8.
2. Tbau (C-3) - 2980 m; via the southern wall of the North-West ridge.
3. Category 2A difficulty; first ascent.
4. Route type - rock climbing.
5. Route elevation gain – 650 m. Approximate route length is 2300 m. Wall section elevation gain – 250 m. Steepness of key route sections up to 90°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°.
6. Pitons left on the route - none.
7. Team's walking hours – 7, days – 1.
8. Team leader: Egorin Sergey Vladimirovich – Master of Sports

1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: 2.8: Caucasus: Kurtatin gorge
3. Peak, route: Tbau-khokh peak (2980 m): from the South via the chimney and the North-West ridge
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A category of difficulty: first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m, route length — 750 m, length of sections:

• 4–5 — 40 m
• 3 — 200 m, average steepness:
• chimney — 60°
• ridge — 45°

Passport

1. Ascent class: rock climbing.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Rocky Ridge.
3. Peak, route: Tbaukhoh (3007 m), via the left part of the Southwest wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B–4A, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 600 m — including 400 m of actual wall climbing — total route length: 900 m — length of wall climbing: 450 m, including: — 35 m of 5th category complexity

Ascent Description

On July 13, the group, having completed preparations, left alpl Ulлу-Тау for alpl Uzunkol and arrived at their destination in the evening of July 14. July 15. After receiving the "start," the team headed to the wall of Kirpich, set up a base camp, dropped off some of their gear, and returned to Uzunkol the same day. July 16. The group retrieved the rest of their gear and, along with observers, moved to the base camp. They arrived under the wall in the first half of the day. The base camp was established on a rocky island within a 50-minute walk from the start of the route. This location was the most convenient and safe from rocks, which in the morning, when the crust was still frozen, rolled down to all the rock outcrops closer to the wall. The condition of all participants was excellent. Climbing preparation was scheduled for the morning. The duo, Zadorozhny — Rasspopov, were relieved of all bivouac chores and were put to bed early. They had serious work ahead. July 17. Day 1 of the assault, processing day! Early in the morning, the climbers headed under the wall. Their figures could be seen moving up the chimney. The weather was excellent! It was clear that the team was making their way up the chimney by climbing and advancing relatively quickly. The day passed unnoticed. The climbers returned to base camp. In 11 hours, they managed to cover a distance of 185 meters and hang ropes! This was a good start, especially since ladders were not used throughout this path, and a logical exit to the "otkol" via a fissure-chimney was visible above. The processed section was a narrow, inclined chimney formed by a giant rock outcropping detaching from the wall, sometimes disappearing and turning into walls.

Ascent Passport

1. Rocky Ridge, section number 2.8 in the classification.
2. Tbau N-W 2980 m, via cornices on the South-West wall.
3. Proposed 5B category; first ascent.
4. Route type: rock.
5. Route height difference: 580 m (by altimeter and topographic map). Route length: 950 m. Section length:
   • 5 category – 52 m.
   • 6 category – 27 m.

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m)

Via the Southeastern Ridge, Category III-B–IV-A

Peak Marshal Tukhachevsky (4020 m above sea level) is located in the high-mountainous Tepli group of the Lateral Ridge of the Central Caucasus. The peak is situated in the northern spur of Kolota (4168 m) between the "4010 m" peak to the south and the "4036 m" peak to the north, on the watershed of the Arkhon-Don and Tsazi-Don rivers. There is no information about ascents to the peak. A steep rocky ridge descends from the peak to the southeast, which was traversed during the first ascent by R.P. Proskuryakov's group in September 1971, made in honor of the 30th anniversary of the Soviet Guards. The path from Ordzhonikidze passes along the highway through the village of Dzuarikau and further along the Fiagdon River (Kurtatinskoye gorge) to the mouth of the Tsazi-Don River, a kilometer south of the highest village in the gorge, Kharischan. A high-clearance vehicle can drive through the village of Kharischan along the road to Arkhon Pass (Dzhimi North Pass), before which a dirt road, built by geologists, turns left into the Tsazi-Don gorge, which can save 1.5-2 hours of walking. For a kilometer, the trail winds along the right bank of the Tsazi-Don River, then crosses a bridge and continues along the left bank of the river to a dead end, past a small lake, through moraine rises - a total of 4-5 hours of walking to a convenient bivouac site in a wide hollow among the left-bank moraines near the Tsazi Glacier plateau (2900 m above sea level). Two campsites are laid out here, and a small lake is located nearby in a deep pocket between the moraines. To return to the bivouac on time, it's necessary to start the ascent no later than 4:00 AM.

To the Alpine Federation of Russia.

The Classification Commission of the FAR of Alania sends a report on the first ascent made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall on August 1, 2012. The route was preliminarily assessed as category 3A.

Report

On the first ascent to peak 3661 (3661 m) via the South wall, approximately category 3A, made by the climbers of the Mountain Club of SKGMI "Krokus" from Vladikavkaz on August 1, 2012. Under the leadership of Yuri Vasilyevich Levkovsky. address: 362035, Alania, Vladikavkaz, pr. Kosta — 273/69, uvl53@yandex.ru

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Sugansky ridge, 2,6